Eagle

How much is it worth to you for me to not share this post with your lovely new wife?

The rubber O-rings ONLY affect the shuttle valve (that slider across the top) that activates the brake warning light. They have nothing to do with controlling the brakes, and they cannot block the flow of brake fluid to the front wheels. The Cherokee unit IS a proportioning valve. You can use one, but you'll have to re-plumb the rear lines, and you'll be giving up the rear height sensing valve.

There is no valve. The front distribution block in the MJ is a distribution block, not a proportioning valve. Again -- there is no valve. How are your front flex hoses? If they are the originals, they may have deteriorated internally and a flap of rubber could be interfering with the fluid flow.

What's the outside diameter of your coils, and what's the wire diameter?

Axle/chassis centering is handled by the track bar -- that's what it's there for. The factory track bar is designed to center the axle under the chassis when the chassis is riding at stock ride height. As soon as you introduce lift, the axle is pulled off center toward the driver's side. The way to measure is to be sure both front tires are the same size and at the same pressure. Park on a known flat and level surface. Drop a plumb line from the fender flare on each side and measure from the plumb line to the tire or wheel. Adjusting for center after a lift is best done with an adjustable track bar.

Remember, you're not done until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees F.

I recently watched a Youtoob video about a guy who used sand casting to make a bronze cannon. There were actually a series of videos, because he had a lot of failures before he finally got one that was mostly okay. One of the alternatives he experimented with was a plaster mold. I wonder if you could make a plaster mold off the original and then cast fiberglas or carbon fiber into the plaster mold.

In the past, it has been proven conclusively that at highway speeds the lower hoses collapse if they don't have the spring in them.

Simple check -- find your CPS. The wires from the CPS go to a 3-pin connector. Do the wires from that connector then lead into a wiring loom with a bunch of other wires, or do they lead directly to a hole through the firewall?

Well, I have two drop-in bed liners here, and I've had two others. IMHO they are the same material and flex about as much as the factory flares.

The problem is that Jeep selected the gear ratios for performance in emissions and gas mileage tests prescribed by the government -- which were run on a chassis dynomometer, not on the road. So there was no wind resistance factored in. I've found that my 88 4.0L 5-speed gets equal or better fuel mileage in 4th gear as in 5th. In 5th, at 55 or 60 MPH, the RPMs are well below the engine's torque peak, and running at or close to the torque peak is the most efficient cruise setting for an engine. I think 3.55s or 3.73s are a much better gear choice for the 5-speed, and 3.73s should work well with the AW4 as well.

You need a radiator. In rain, on the highway, you should never need the aux fan.

But does the new one have the spring in it to prevent collapse?

I think fiberglas would be a serious mistake. It's far too fragile. I don't know what the original part was made of but I imagine its something like what the Old Town canoe company calls "Royalex." I think that's similar to (if not the same as) the material the drop-in bed liners are made of. It's much more damage resistant than fiberglas.

I suspect that means he was separated from his litter too early. One thing I noticed on a trip to Europe a couple of decades ago was that everyone let their dogs run free, and none of the dogs acted aggressive. They were all well socialized. That can be difficult with an adult dog that wasn't properly socialized before being sent off to live in a one-dog household.

I favor Clayton's longarm kit. I've met and wheeled with Clayton, so I know his engineering is both solid and based on his own real world experience, and I've seen his kit being installed and I know it's good quality kit.

^^^ Agree.

My sister had a Siberian Husky. Hah! I wrote "my sister," but she was still living at home, so it was the family's dog. Don't know if it was just that dog, but she could NOT be housebroken. And she could not be allowed outside without being on a leash or a tether, because she'd be gone in an instant ... and, unlike other dogs we had when I was a kid, she wouldn't just do a tour of the neighborhood and then come home. If she got loose, we'd be lucky if she only got as far as the next town before someone found her. Husky's can be great dogs, but they're about as close to being a wolf/dog mix as you can get without having to actually call it a wolf/dog.

Especially if your pockets aren't deep, why do a lift at all? How do you use the truck, and how do you plan to use it in the future? Are yo aware that you can run up to 9and including) 31x10.50-15 tires with NO lift?

EagleScout526 has it right. Near the passenger side firewall, in the vicinity of the blower motor.

But you stated that you have no basis for comparison. I do. KYBs suck.

True. I tried the KYBs because my brother thought they were the greatest thing since sliced bread. (My brother had some very strange notions about ride and handling.)

Makes sense. Your plan sounds solid. Get the grounding and bonding squared away ASAP, and then get busy rewiring circuits as soon as you possibly can. I'd suggest that you start by removing those unused 240-volt circuits in the kitchen.

Oh, dear God! I put a set of KYB Gas-A-Justs on my '88 Cherokee a long time ago. I think they were on it maybe a month. HORRIBLE, HORRIBLE, HORRIBLE! They were vaery harsh over pavement cracks and small bumps, and had almost no damping over large bumps. Just awful. I couldn't get 'em off the XJ fast enough.

Did you happen to ask the maestro about running a megger test?