Eagle

My well water is like that. I buy distilled water from Walmart (69 cents/gallon last time I bought it) for use in mixing my coolant.

Yeah, that's the speed controller for cruise control. You don't need it. One more thing to break. Just buy the straight speedo cable.

Step number one to address sag is to determine whether or not the rear has actually sagged. Read this thread: https://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/

What's your idea of "a good size" lift kit? The choice is very dependent on your intended use of the truck. Personally, after wheeling an MJ with a 4-inch lift, I think the best lift is zero. (I took the lift off and returned it to stock height, and it didn't affect where I could go off-road very much at all.)

All true -- except for the tap water. Nobody should ever run straight tap water (or even straight distilled water) in their cooling system. Anti-freeze also has anti-corrosion additives. ALWAYS run anti-freeze, and if you don't run the 50/50 mix needed for maximum freeze protection.

When I bought the 3.73 gears that ended up in the '88 MJ, they were intended to be used in the '88 Cherokee, and they were intended to be used with 30x9.50-15 tires. 30x9.50s are very close to the diameter of 235/75-15. I think that's a good ratio for street driving and highway driving with tires of that size. I wouldn't go to 4.10s unless I planned to run at least 31" tires. Your criterion seems to be 80 MPH, so let's look at that. 3.73 gears with 235s would have the engine spinning at 2,697 RPM at 80 MPH. 4.10s will have you turning 2,964 RPM at 80 MPH. The latter will give you better performance, but I don't know if it will give you better fuel economy. I couldn't find any horsepower/torque graphs for the 4.0L HO engine. My guess is that it won't be much different regardless of which you choose, but it's probably easier to find axles with 4.10s than 3.73s.

I found revolutions-per-mile for 195/75-15s. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html Actually, much closer to 2200 RPM. 2448 would be for your factory 195/75-15 tires and 3.55 gears. To match that with 235/75-15 tires you are mid-way between 3.73s (2360 RPM @ 70) and 4.10s (2594 RPM @ 70).

Keep in mind that there are two ways of regulating the temperature. The old AMC vehicles that used that valve used the valve to control how much coolant was flowing, which regulated how much heat was available to be transferred to the air stream passing through the heater coil. Newer vehicles (like newer buildings) tend to control the temperature by "variable air volume." Instead of regulating the flow of coolant, the newer vehicles (including the XJ and MJ) use a system of baffles that passes some of the incoming air through the heater coil and some around it. By varying the air mix, the system controls the temperature. VAV is supposed to be better, but IMHO the old system worked just fine and I never understood why the car makers moved to the significantly more complex VAV systems to accomplish the same task that little valve was doing. My point being that, with that valve, you have the potential to have two means of temperature regulation possibly fighting each other. I'm not sure about that -- they might play together very well, or you might find that you need to use that as an ON/OFF control and use the VAV controls for when the valve is on HEAT mode.

That's it. If you don't want to bother with the cable, just install it and open or close it from under the hood when the season changes. That valve was the factory heater valve in all AMC cars in the 1960s and 1970s. It's variable volume, so with the cable that's what controlled the amount of heat you got. Full open ==> full heat. Throttle it back for less flow to produce less heat.

There are mechanical valves you can replace it with. One type can be operated from the cabin with a cable, like a manual choke control. The other type you open or close from under the hood. Open for winter, closed for summer. No big deal.

https://archive.org/details/88FSM

You thought he was kidding? You're making sparks right next to the gas tank ...

I thought caster was adjustable on the WJ. Unfortunately, I gave away my WJ factory service manual. You can always go to adjustable control arms. And camber can be addressed with offset ball joints.

The difficulty is quantifying the change ... but maybe it's not that difficult. Assume you start with the axle perfectly upright -- defined as zero caster measured through the ball joints -- and +1.5 degrees of camber. As Pete noted, flip the axle 180 degrees and the camber shifts to -1.5. As the axle rotates through 90 degrees, the camber would be zero (it would actually then be creating toe-in or toe-out). So let's assume that the change is linear. Rotating the axle 180 degrees causes a change in camber of 3 degrees. So a shift of 60 degrees will change the camber 1 degree, 30 degrees will change the camber 0.5 degrees, and 15 degrees on the axle will change the camber 0.25 degrees. 5 degrees on the axle will be 0.0833 degrees of camber. Your caster angles are roughly 2.35 degrees off from the mid-spec of 6.75. If the mid-spec for camber of -0.1 coincides with the mid-spec for caster, then the 2.35 degree shift in your caster would change the camber by about 0.04 degrees. If you started at mid-spec, that would still be within the allowable range. However, if you started at or near one of the extremes, it would push you out of the allowable range.

Yes, it does. It has to.

Well, phooey. I guess I'll have to put my curiosity on hold for a week. Meanwhile, though, reading about and thinking about your predicament has spurred me to getting busy on upgrading my breaker panels. I have Siemans panels, so I've been looking on Siemans' web site, Lowe's, and Home despot. The sub-panel I have now is 8 spaces. They're all rated for split breakers ... except that I've got several 240-volt, 2-pole breakers in there, so that takes care of that. After much searching, I found a 12 space / 24 circuit, main lug panel that will fit in the space available. Perfect as a sub-panel. Unfortunately, neither my local Lowe's nor any Home Despot with 100 miles has it in stock, so I'll have to special order it.

Any update from the boss man's visit to the scene of the crime?

Looking at the photos again, it looks like your breaker panel is filled to capacity. If you're going to add lights and permanent power for a sump pump in the crawlspace, I would suggest that they be on their own circuits. (Especially the sump pump.) There is a critter sometimes called a "split breaker," which occupies one space in the panel but is actually two breakers, controlling two independent circuits. They are useful for sneaking in one or two additional circuits, as a less expensive option than replacing the breaker panel with a larger one, or adding a sub-panel. BUT ... not all breaker panels are listed for use with split breakers, so that's another thing to discuss with the electrician when he's there. https://www.thespruce.com/tandem-breakers-1152736 https://www.oneprojectcloser.com/tandem-aka-split-or-double-breakers-for-a-full-breaker-panel/ http://www.startribune.com/how-to-know-when-tandem-circuit-breakers-can-be-used-aka-cheater-breakers/140688183/ Try to anticipate your future wants and needs now. If you're tinkering with the whole house, now is the time to at least provide for some future expansion if you think you'll need it. Whatever you think you'll need probably won't be enough anyway. My house was built in 1950 with a fuse panel. Somewhere around 1998 (or so) that started creating a lot of problems, so I replaced it with a new breaker panel that had several more spaces than the old panel had fuses. Then I used up all the extra spaces, and added a sub-panel with eight more spaces. And now I only have two of those left, and I need to add a dedicated generator circuit, so I wish I had either used a bigger main panel, or a bigger sub-panel. I may replace the sub-panel at some point -- not sure what my plans are. (The sticky wicket is that to go from an 8-space panel to a 12-space panel will mean a VERY big jump in the size of the enclosure, and I don't think it will fit the space available for it.

When it was new, it was high tech. I doubt they knew it would start to degrade after 25 years. I'm not staying out (perhaps against my better judgement), but there's only so much anyone can offer from hundreds of miles away. If the problem is degraded insulation, that's exactly what a megger test is intended to show. That's why I reminded you to discuss it with the boss man.

I agree. I'm sort of wishing I had done the same.

But page 8 of the '88 electrical manual shows the fuse panel wiring, and the C100 connection points are called out on that diagram.

Fabric-coated? That's very old school. I think that stuff only had a life expectancy of 25 years. Ask the master electrician about that. And ask him about doing a megger test.

Are all the boxes wired with Romex, or are some of them wired with BX (metal armored cable)?

Were these readins with the ground wires attached, or disconnected and isolated? 5V or 10V between the box and what -- box to stud? Box to neutral?

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