Eagle

That's not especially helpful since wire size is rated by amperage, not voltage.

I stated that incorrectly. There should be no current in the grounding conductor (or the metal boxes) at all if there's nothing plugged into the outlets. The grounding conductor (the third hole in a 3-prong receptacle) is there to protect the operator if there's a fault inside an appliance or device that would allow current to energize the outer enclosure that people can touch. By providing a path to ground for such stray currents, it's supposed to prevent the stray current from going to ground through you when you pick up or touch the defective device. Again to save me having to go back through the entire discussion -- do any of these circuits have both light fixtures and wall outlets on the same circuit?

Correct -- there should be current in the grounding side only if/when there's a fault in the system. I hate to suggest that it's time to spend money, but -- it may be time to spend some money. It's almost impossible to track down phantom problems in an electrical system, especially when the wiring is all concealed in existing construction. You may need to hire a qualified electrician to run a "Megger" test to try to isolate which circuit or circuits is/are causing the problems. http://insulationresistancetest.com/ Not all electricians have the equipment to do a Megger test so, if you call someone in, be sure to ask if he/they have the equipment and if he/they are experienced and qualified to use it.

No idea, they run through the wall somewhere and I've been unable to locate their destination anywhere in the crawlspace or attic. I can't help thinking they are part (maybe even all) of the problem. To save me going back through the entire thread -- where is the main electrical panel grounded to? Does it ground to a water pipe, to a well, or to a pair of grounding electrodes (big metal stakes) driven into the ground and buried? Story: My house was built in 1950. I know this exactly because my parents had the house built. This was the boonies in 1950. I have a well, and when the house was built the electrical system was grounded to the steel well casing through a connection to the pipe leading from the well to the pump, which is located in the basement. Along the way, at some point while my parents were still alive the pipes from the well to the house failed and were replaced with plastic. But nobody thought to do anything about adding a ground to replace what was now a broken connection. The grounding conductor from the fuse panel (which was later replaced with a more modern breaker panel) leads from the panel in the garage to the basement, where it's clamped to a length of 3/4" copper pipe that comes through the wall from outside, about 4 feet down from grade level. The problem is, that 3/4" copper pipe hasn't been connected to anything for about forty years. I finally figured all this out when I signed up for DirecTV about fifteen years ago. I knew where the dish was going to mount so I prewired the interior of the house to that location because I wanted to avoid having a bunch of wires running around the outside of my house. When the installers arrived, the first thing they wanted to do was run a ground wire from the dish location half way around the house to where the electrical service comes in. They said this was required by the NEC (National Electrical Code). I wasn't convinced, so I sent them away until I could do my homework. It turned out they were right, but they were wrong. When I got back to work (which, at the time, was in a town building inspection department), I talked to my boss. He knew the guy at the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) who writes the NEC Handbook, so he called him. And that guy didn't know the answer -- he had to research it and call us back. It took him a day or two. When he called back, he had a code section to point to. Satellite dishes do require grounding. BUT -- the ground wire isn't supposed to be more than 'X' feet long (I don't remember what 'X' is, but it's about a quarter of how far the satellite guys wanted to run their wire), and it's supposed to be straight, or nearly straight (they were going to make at least four right-angle bends). So I decided to do it right, since I knew the satellite guys weren't going to. I bought a new ground rod and drove it into the ground right below where the dish was going to go, and I ran a #6 wire from the ground rod up to the dish location. BUT -- and this is where I think your problem may lie -- the NEC allows for supplemental grounds such as what I installed, BUT it requires that any supplemental ground be "bonded" (connected) to the primary building ground (the NEC calls it the "primary grounding electrode system"). So I had to find where my electrical panel grounded, and connect to that. And that's when I discovered that the panel was grounded to a copper pipe that didn't go anywhere. So I started over from scratch. Back to Lowe's, bought two more ground rods and a long length of #6 wire. I drove the two new ground rods in the front of the house, near the well and near the electrical panel. Then I ran a new grounding #6 conductor from the panel to the first new ground rod, and then from that to the second new grounding rod. And then I ran another #6 wire from the supplemental ground rod in the back of the house through the basement and connected it to the new ground rods in the front. That's the "bonding" jumper. What that does is to ensure that everything is at the same electrical potential, which is what's necessary to prevent stray currents such as what you're encountering. This is why I'm interested in where those "new" add-on grounding wires go, because I suspect they aren't bonded to the building's primary grounding electrode system. And that is important. Side story -- when DirecTV came back, it was a different crew. These guys spoke English, and they actually seemed to know what they were doing. My call was mid-afternoon on a Friday, and when they showed up they were thinking they weren't going to get home (in the next state!) until very late. When they saw that the house was already wired, and the grounding conductor was right there waiting for them so all they had to do was mount and aim the dish and plug in the tuning boxes, they were ecstatic. They said it was the easiest installation they had ever done, and the only one they had ever seen that actually met the NEC.

No need to try -- it won't work. The floor pans are different, especially for the rear mount locations. The seats would end up being set too high and at a very odd angle.

The metal outlet boxes were grounded by an external wire that appears to have been added later. Where does that wire go?

If you have the cluster out of the vehicle, you can run test leads from the sensors directly to the posts on the various gauges to test them. There are contacts in the one of the diagnostic port blocks for the tachometer. All the other gauges, I believe, have the same ohm range -- 0 to 88 ohms, -- so you could use a test lead setup from either the temp sender or the oil pressure sender to check them all. (Except volts -- but that's easy to test with a direct connection to the battery.)

AMC used the T4 and T5 as "alternate standard" transmissions in the 1984 and 1985 Cherokee because they were able to source enough AX-4 and AX-5 transmissions. By 1986 I think the supply line issues had been worked out. I don't think I've ever heard of the T4 and T5 being used in 1986.

It may have been installed in accordance with whatever the code was for that jurisdiction in 1967, but the problems he's finding pretty conclusively prove that someone, at some time, made some "improvements" that very clearly were not to code. A code-compliant electrical system won't have stray current leaking all over the place and electrifying the mortar in the kitchen backsplash.

The late model XJ flasher is a combination unit that does both the turns and the hazards in one unit. And it's electronic, and it's about two or three times the price of the most expensive flasher you can find for the early XJs and MJs. I don't think it's sensitive to the number of lamps in the circuit -- my wife's 2000 XJ with trailer package and my 2000 XJ without trailer package take the same flasher unit. The 2000 XJ factory parts book only shows one part number for the flasher module, not a separate part number with trailer tow.

Now, now ... It's not nice to gloat.

I'm talking about the plugs that go onto the headlights. They use the same headlights. That connector has been standard since the 1940s (or 30s).

Why not use the donor Cherokee headlight harness? If you're swapping the rest of the Cherokee wiring, move the headlight harness, too. The headlight connectors are the same.

XJ What! Doors? Windows? Interior? Engine? Dashboard? Axles? Everything? I don't understand the question. All you need to do to keep the front end original is not replace anything on the front end. So, what do you mean by "front end"? To some folks that means the nose clip -- body work. In this neck of the woods, "front end" generally refers to the front axle and differential.

97+ swap of what?

Yes, the 1988 thru 1990 clusters, the ones that use the nylon push-on connector for the speedo cable. Although I assume the clusters with the electronic speedometers also have the potentiometer on the tach.

You can't adjust it. That's the problem. If you have a 6-cylinder engine you have to use a cluster that came from a 6-cylinder donor vehicle. They did have two different tachometers. The 4-cylinder tachometer was part number 8350-0308. The 6-cylinder tachometer was 8350 0309. Long story" Somewhere in the circuit there's a resistor. Someone who knows what it is and where it is, and who is skilled at doing printed circuit soldering, could replace the resister with one of a different value to change the tach from 4 to 6 cylinders, or from 6 to 4 cylinders. For 97.3 percent of us, that translates to "It's not adjustable." The speedometer also uses a different cable connection.

It's small -- not what you'd want for racing -- but it'll tell you how fast the engine is spinning, and it's cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1A1UL8/ref=psdc_15729791_t3_B01I1A2HLA For a couple of bucks more, this one includes a pedestal so it would be easy to mount to the steering column with a hose clamp: https://www.amazon.com/NCElec-Universal-Backlit-Tachometer-Gasoline/dp/B01M6D0IRJ/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/134-2065384-1246316?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M6D0IRJ&pd_rd_r=b31f37bd-92a4-11e9-8704-597ede040640&pd_rd_w=GGf7t&pd_rd_wg=Pm8ZR&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=RWV5R4M7ZH39AZ5KV947&psc=1&refRID=RWV5R4M7ZH39AZ5KV947

If there's anyone on here from Eastern Tennessee, please contact me by PM. Thank you.

But bonding the neutral and ground bus bars in the panel don't help if some genius ran supplemental ground wires to the metal boxes that didn't originally have them, and then didn't run those ground wires back to the panel. If he grounded them to a water pipe, the water pipe may not be bonded to the electrical system.

You need to get a tachometer, even if it's a cheapie that you strap to the steering column with a big hose clamp.

If that released the parking brakes, then the problem is that the front cable is frozen. Minuit has described the replacement. Good opportunity to lift the carpet and check the floor for rust while you're going the cable replacement.

That could be the problem. In the primary panel, the neutral bus is supposed to be bonded to the grounding bus. It sounds like your problem may be lack of bonding between neutral and ground.

There is no BOCA code. It went away in 1999. For single family houses, every state now uses some edition of the International Residential Code, which allows following either the electrical provisions in the IRC or using the NEC (National Electrical Code). The IRC is available on-line at www.iccsafe.org.

As far as I know, all Romex has a separate neutral (white) and ground (bare) conductor, and is mostly used with plastic outlet boxes. When using Romex with steel boxes, the grounding conductor in the Romex has to connect to the grounding screw on the receptacle and to the box. There's often a grounding screw in the back face of the box fr this purpose. If the house is wired with armored metallic cable ("BX"), then there probably isn't a separate grounding conductor. In older BX cable, the metal sheath itself was the grounding conductor. The armored cable we can buy today has a bonding conductor running in it, but it's still the armored housing itself that's the primary grounding conductor. But the kind of current leakage you are describing sounds like more than a simple grounding issue. It's dangerous, and the circuits involved should be turned off at the circuit breakers until they can be checked and repaired by an electrician. I suspect that you may have a frayed conductor inside the BX cable that's allowing current to escape from the hot (black) wire directly to the metal sheath. That's serious. Don't just hope that the problem will go away when the mortar dries. The problem shouldn't be there when the mortar is damp, so allowing the mortar to dry doesn't do anything to fix the problem.