Eagle

I hope you understand that the 2000 XJ engine has a lot of things that are different from the '87 MJ. The ignition and injection system is totally different, using a different fuel pump, operating at a different pressure, and the ECU until it different. The CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) operates on a different principle, requiring a different tone ring on the flywheel. And, since you want to change the XJ engine to a 5-speed when you put it into the MJ, that means you don't have a flywheel that will operate with the 2000 ECU, ignition, and injection system. What that means is that the easiest way to swap that engine into your MJ is to strip everything off it and treat it like a long block -- use only the block and the head, and keep the '87 manifolds and accessories. That way, you can keep the '87 ECU, flywheel, fuel pump, and CPS.

All they're missing is Yugo ...

I would be more interested in their one-piece window glass and regulators for the old-style doors.

Coal oil lamps for the win.

Also, check to be sure that there are no kinks or sharp bends in the route the speedo cable follows from the transfer case to the speedo head. Tight bends can cause jumping.

Ecclesiastes 1:9

Looks like someone might be looking forward to getting their driver's license.

By the time I hit "Submit Topic" it will be Monday, so it's time for my annual rant about Memorial Day. As you all get together for family or neighborhood barbecues, or sit back and watch the auto races, please take a few minutes to spend in quiet reflection of the meaning of Memorial Day. It's the day we set aside out of each year to remember, honor, and give thanks to those who answered the call of duty and who gave their lives protecting our Constitution and our freedoms as Americans. Memorial Day is not the day to thank me or or Shelbyluv or any of the other veterans on this forum for our service. We have our own day, later in the year. Those of us here who served somewhere in combat ... we came home. We're thankful for that. Memorial Day is the day when we are supposed to honor our comrades in arms who fell in the line of duty, and who came home in a box. ]

I would cut the flange off the old cat and weld or clamp it to the new cat. The factory down pipe is designed to be supported by the transmission mount. If you cut the flange off the down pipe, you lose that support. If nknapp doesn't have the original cat with the flange, maybe some other CC member has an old cat and could provide the flange with a short section of pipe still attached.

Not random. Back then, the AMC 20 was the optional, heavy duty axle. It was supplanted by the Dana 44 in the 1987 model year.

I also just realized that the price for the SilverStars is NOT about the same as the XtraVisions. XtraVision is $16.99 at my local parts emporium, and the SilverStar is $25.99. Wattage is the same for both. So, let's see: $16.99 for a headlamp that lasts almost three times longer than OEM, or $25.99 for a headlamp that lasts 1/3 as long as the OEM? Hmmm ... gotta cogitate on that one.

Another NO vote. I could see it if the truck had the wheel arches all rusted out, but to chop into pristine bodywork? Nope.

I'm still using the convention 6054 headlamps. Playing musical bulbs and I noticed a Sylvania lens marking I didn't recognize. It said "Sylvania Performance" rather than XTRAVISION or SilverStar. So I contacted Sylvania to ask what it is. I also noticed, in looking on their site, that they no longer provide estimated lamp life data, so I also asked about that. Just got my answers. They now use the same lens for the XtraVision and the SilverStar. The real shocker was in the lamp life. I knew the SilverStars were less than the XtraVisions, but I didn't realize by how much. The Basic is their OEM replacement, and that's what's sold at Walmart. They are 35/35 watts (high beam and low beam). Both XtraVisions and SilverStatrs are 55/55 watt, but the Silverstar has a slightly higher color temperature (whiter light) and supposedly puts out a bit more light. But that extra light comes at a price. If the OEMs are rated for 320 hours, the XtraVisions last (on average) 2.7 times as long. I like that. But, for about the same price as the XtraVisions and the same wattage, the SilverStars last less than one-third as long as OEM headlights. I think I'll stick with the XtraVisions.

Short answer is "No." Long answer is "Not without a lot of cutting." Also, the new cluster uses an electronic speedometer. You have a mechanical speedometer.

Factory spec on oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. So I'll guess the idiot light switch probably trips at between 10 and 12 psi.

They were more interested in "Easter eggs," like cutesy hidden storage spaces and such.

That'll buff right out ...

What make filter? Please don't say FRAM.

There are two sets of holes in the frame rails, to accommodate two positions for mounting the cross member.

In general, the fuse protects what's downstream from it. In this case, though, if you use that 10-amp transformer you also don't want to overload that. I would use 14-gauge wire with a 10-amp fuse. That way, if you decide to play the odds and add more lights, the fuse will blow before you burn out the transformer. BTW -- are you going to light the parking lights along with the headlights? If so, look up the wattage on those and add it to the load in the equation. Be sure you use the parking light filament -- the turn signal filament is brighter and draws probably twice as much current.

Personally, I think even OEM headlights are much too bright for accent lighting. I think I'd be tempted to sacrifice a couple of old headlights (or find some that are burned out) and see if you can remove the connector and filament from the back without breaking the housing and reflector. If you can open it up, then you could insert any sort of low output bulb into the opening, anything from a 5-watt nightlight bulb on up.

That's rated to 10 amps. Ohm will probably correct me but, simplistically, Watts = Volts x Amps. The OEM headlamps (H6054) are IIRC rated at 35 watts. Sylvania XtraVision are 55 watts. Flipping the formula, Amps = Watts/Volts. You need two headlights, so call it 70 watts if you use basic headlamps, or 110 if you use XtraVisions. 70/12 = 5.8 so that should be good to go. 110/12 = 9.2. In theory still good to go, but too close to the limit for me to feel comfortable with it. You would use a 10-amp fuse, or maybe a 15 or 20. The wire size has to be chosen based on the load and the fuse. A 15-amp circuit needs 14-gauge wire. If you use a 20-amp fuse, the wire size has to be 12-gauge. Absolute minimum would be 16-gauge wire with a 10-amp fuse. NEVER use a fuse larger than what's needed for the wire size. The fuse is to protect the wire from overheating due to overload.

Number 2 for the win. Bowed springs after a lift is very common. Think about the geometry involved. The spring seats were designed so the springs would be straight with the vehicle at stock height and the axle at the specified caster angle. Now you throw in a lift, so the springs are longer and the spring seats are farther apart, you change the control arms to shove the axle forward by who knows how much, and the caster angle is reduced. Getting the caster angle somewhere close to spec should help. If that doesn't help enough, then you need to shorten both the upper and lower control arms.

You are absolutely correct. I was reading and writing "track bar," but thinking "sway bar." It happens -- you'll find out when you reach my age.

Didn't Hornbrod have some photos and details of a modified track bar mount to alleviate this problem?