Eagle

I also just realized that the price for the SilverStars is NOT about the same as the XtraVisions. XtraVision is $16.99 at my local parts emporium, and the SilverStar is $25.99. Wattage is the same for both. So, let's see: $16.99 for a headlamp that lasts almost three times longer than OEM, or $25.99 for a headlamp that lasts 1/3 as long as the OEM? Hmmm ... gotta cogitate on that one.

Another NO vote. I could see it if the truck had the wheel arches all rusted out, but to chop into pristine bodywork? Nope.

I'm still using the convention 6054 headlamps. Playing musical bulbs and I noticed a Sylvania lens marking I didn't recognize. It said "Sylvania Performance" rather than XTRAVISION or SilverStar. So I contacted Sylvania to ask what it is. I also noticed, in looking on their site, that they no longer provide estimated lamp life data, so I also asked about that. Just got my answers. They now use the same lens for the XtraVision and the SilverStar. The real shocker was in the lamp life. I knew the SilverStars were less than the XtraVisions, but I didn't realize by how much. The Basic is their OEM replacement, and that's what's sold at Walmart. They are 35/35 watts (high beam and low beam). Both XtraVisions and SilverStatrs are 55/55 watt, but the Silverstar has a slightly higher color temperature (whiter light) and supposedly puts out a bit more light. But that extra light comes at a price. If the OEMs are rated for 320 hours, the XtraVisions last (on average) 2.7 times as long. I like that. But, for about the same price as the XtraVisions and the same wattage, the SilverStars last less than one-third as long as OEM headlights. I think I'll stick with the XtraVisions.

Short answer is "No." Long answer is "Not without a lot of cutting." Also, the new cluster uses an electronic speedometer. You have a mechanical speedometer.

Factory spec on oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. So I'll guess the idiot light switch probably trips at between 10 and 12 psi.

They were more interested in "Easter eggs," like cutesy hidden storage spaces and such.

That'll buff right out ...

What make filter? Please don't say FRAM.

There are two sets of holes in the frame rails, to accommodate two positions for mounting the cross member.

In general, the fuse protects what's downstream from it. In this case, though, if you use that 10-amp transformer you also don't want to overload that. I would use 14-gauge wire with a 10-amp fuse. That way, if you decide to play the odds and add more lights, the fuse will blow before you burn out the transformer. BTW -- are you going to light the parking lights along with the headlights? If so, look up the wattage on those and add it to the load in the equation. Be sure you use the parking light filament -- the turn signal filament is brighter and draws probably twice as much current.

Personally, I think even OEM headlights are much too bright for accent lighting. I think I'd be tempted to sacrifice a couple of old headlights (or find some that are burned out) and see if you can remove the connector and filament from the back without breaking the housing and reflector. If you can open it up, then you could insert any sort of low output bulb into the opening, anything from a 5-watt nightlight bulb on up.

That's rated to 10 amps. Ohm will probably correct me but, simplistically, Watts = Volts x Amps. The OEM headlamps (H6054) are IIRC rated at 35 watts. Sylvania XtraVision are 55 watts. Flipping the formula, Amps = Watts/Volts. You need two headlights, so call it 70 watts if you use basic headlamps, or 110 if you use XtraVisions. 70/12 = 5.8 so that should be good to go. 110/12 = 9.2. In theory still good to go, but too close to the limit for me to feel comfortable with it. You would use a 10-amp fuse, or maybe a 15 or 20. The wire size has to be chosen based on the load and the fuse. A 15-amp circuit needs 14-gauge wire. If you use a 20-amp fuse, the wire size has to be 12-gauge. Absolute minimum would be 16-gauge wire with a 10-amp fuse. NEVER use a fuse larger than what's needed for the wire size. The fuse is to protect the wire from overheating due to overload.

Number 2 for the win. Bowed springs after a lift is very common. Think about the geometry involved. The spring seats were designed so the springs would be straight with the vehicle at stock height and the axle at the specified caster angle. Now you throw in a lift, so the springs are longer and the spring seats are farther apart, you change the control arms to shove the axle forward by who knows how much, and the caster angle is reduced. Getting the caster angle somewhere close to spec should help. If that doesn't help enough, then you need to shorten both the upper and lower control arms.

You are absolutely correct. I was reading and writing "track bar," but thinking "sway bar." It happens -- you'll find out when you reach my age.

Didn't Hornbrod have some photos and details of a modified track bar mount to alleviate this problem?

That's really great. It's a sad reason for a parade, but it's heart warming to see Jeepers take the time out to recognize one of our own.

The NP 231 is a much better transfer case than the NP 207, but you have to be sure the one you get has the same spline count as your transmission. Considering that you can't just bolt a transfer case to a 2WD transmission, IMHO you're far ahead of the game if you buy an AX-5 5-speed transmission and transfer case together. The AX-4 and AX-5 are the same for the first four speeds and reverse, so you could keep the AX-4 for spare parts. In addition to a front driveshaft, the transfer case obviously adds a lot of length behind the transmission, so you will either need a different rear driveshaft, or you'll have to have your driveshaft shortened.

Adjustable MAP sensor.

A '90 with the Big Ton package should have a Dana 44 rear. I don't think that has inner and outer seals. I'm pretty certain there's only one seal on each side, at the outer end where the bearing race fits into the end of the axle tube. For $150 to $250 that better be for both sides, and the seals better be gold plated.

This. Cruiser, I think we have a bunch of youngsters here who have never owned a car that had an adjustable distributor. Or a carburetor, with an idle speed screw and an idle mix screw.

That's what I plan to do with my '88. I think I have two screws snapped of that are supposed to hold the headlight bezels in place. Best solution I can think of. I plan to use stainless steel screws, and liberal anti-sieze.

Tacking this question onto a five-year old thread is confusing. I split this new question out.

https://comancheclub.com/topic/58217-1986-comanche-x-slave-cylinder-bleeding-issue/

Don't do that. The ballast resistor only has two wires. If you can't identify which two connect to it, you may fry something else. Do your homework, don't just play three blind mice.

More to the point, how is it even possible? 2.5L 5-speeds came with 4.10 gears. It was the 2.5L 4-speeds that came with 3.55 gearing.