Eagle

We don't deal in "offset." For Jeep wheels the usual spec is "backspacing." What's the backspacing of the wheels you're considering?

Dzimm is on the right track (no pun intended). You need to create some friction between the tapered body of the TRE and the bracket. I wouldn't use a pickle fork -- that will also increase the friction between the nut and the bracket. I would try to find a way to apply lateral pressure to the TRE, so the tapered body is forced to bind up in the hole in the bracket. Or remove the zerk from the TRE and put a jack under it to force the taper up into tight contact.

Not if your MJ is stock. The stock MJ "thingie" below the master cylinder is not a proportioning valve. It has no proportioning function. It's a distribution block and a brake failure warning light switch, and that's all it is.

It is all 3/16" line, but a couple of the fittings at the front distribution block are oversized.

So buy what's left. Engines and transmissions are easy to find -- same as Cherokees. And 100K on a Jeep engine (even a 2.5L) is nothing. Barely broken in. https://comancheclub.com/topic/56904-300-club/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/27007-most-miles-on-your-comanche/

Looks good. In the close-up of the front end, the left frame rail appeared to have a small opening at the top where your new framework mated to the original frame. Is that going to get closed up so it can't get filled up with gunk from following a tow vehicle through snow or mud? As to the axles -- the ring, pinion, and differential spider gears add drag. If these are non-C-clip axles, why not open them and remove the guts, leaving just the axle shafts and the bearings? It'll save some unsprung weight, and reduce drag considerably.

In the Jeep world, we talk about wheel "backspacing" rather than "offset." It's another way of addressing the same issue, but we might as well use the terminology that you're going to see in all the discussions around here. The backspacing is the distance from the wheel mounting surface to the back (the inside, as it sits on the vehicle) of the wheel. OEM Jeep wheels are not symmetrical -- most of the OEM wheels are 7-inch rims, but the backspacing is 5-1/4 inches. So they look more like the wheel on the right in the illustration provided by NHMJXJ. The easiest way to have your tires sit a bit wider is to buy wheels with less backspacing. That's not hard, because just about every aftermarket wheel known to mankind has less backspacing than factory Jeep wheels. Keep in mind, though, that in most states it's illegal to have your tires extend outboard of the bodywork.

I always found it hilariously amusing that AMC put a torque damper on the 2.5L (132 ft-lbs of torque), but not on the 4.0L (220 ft-lbs of torque).

There hasn't been any activity in this thread for TWELVE YEARS. That should answer your question. My question would be, once you cut the quarter panels and/or bedsides open, how are you going to close them up again?

How are you bleeding it? The only "trick" I can think of is to NOT pump the peddle vigorously. Pumping just aerates the fluid, and once that happens you'll never get it bled. Are you working alone, or do you have a helper?

Ya know, looking again at your photo -- your factory backup lights look almost like they've been painted over. They should be clear, and in photos they should appear either as white or as silver (depending on the lighting). Have you tried cleaning them up to see if they can be brighter? By the way, you could also check the bulbs to see if they're the correct bulbs. They should be #1156.

I'm 75 years old, Mate. If I live to see that future at all, it'll only be as a passenger.

You can stop holding back, because that's not a factory bumper.

When I was doing the performance car thing. numbers like that were for a muscle car or a drag racer, not a sports car. Sports cars are supposed to be about precise handling and balanced performance, not shredding pavement.

Oh, yeah. I can see hordes of sports car drivers lining up to trade in their sports cars for an electric truck.

SoCalManche, you already have a lengthy thread going to discuss your issue, and you have several people who are trying to help you. There is NOTHING to be gained by dredging up a five-year old thread to ask about the same problem you already have under discussion. I'm closing this thread. If you are asking about a different issue, contact me or one of the other moderators and explain to us why this thread should be reopened.

Having fuel in the throttle body has nothing to do with whether or not the engine turns over. Did you not read the previous posts? This has been explained to you at least twice in this thread. "Turn over" is the same as "crank." It just means that the starter motor is engaged and is making the engine spin. "Turn over" does NOT mean that the engine has started and is running -- even for a couple of seconds.

No, there's no "lol" about it. Either you had death wobble or you didn't, and from your description it sounds like you didn't. There is no "minor" death wobble. Back a decade or so on the NAXJA forum, somebody complained about having his XJ at "the verge of death wobble." The responses he got were the same as the responses you are getting. Death wobble either is ... or it isn't. When it is, it IS. There's no "minor." Death wobble is when the truck is shaking so badly you think the front end will fall off and your teeth will fall out, you don't know if you can even keep it on the road, and the only way to stop it is to slow down either to a complete stop or very nearly to a complete stop ... like around 5 MPH or less. Sorry to make a big deal about it, but diagnosing death wobble is more complicated than diagnosing a minor shimmy. Since you have come here looking for help, it's important for us to properly understand the problem or we'll be handing out advice by the shovelful that may not apply to your problem.

There is no such thing as "minor" death wobble. If it's minor, it's not death wobble. Death wobble is so named because, when it strikes, you aren't afraid you'll die any minute -- you KNOW you're going to die RIGHT NOW!

0:50 Luv it.

The 4.0L never came with any automatic transmission other than the AW4.

Junkyard

Yes.

NO! Do NOT plug #2. Plug #1. #2 is the normal circuit for feeding the rear brakes. If you plug #2 and use #1, you won't have any rear brakes at all.