Eagle

In this thread:

195.

You heater core is probably clogged. Replace it.

I've been watching tow videos on YouTube by Plaza Towing, and Ron Pratt. There are professional, heavy-duty recovery and towing operators, They use chains, not straps, and they tie down straight, not across.

Have you run the FSM diagnostic? That involves pulling the fuse for the TCM and shifting manually. I opsted it for someone not very long ago, so you should be able to pull it up.

What you need to know is in item 3 of the instructions you posted. You're looking for the leanest setting that allows for a smooth idle. You start at the baseline setting and turn the screw in (which makes the mixture leaner) until the engine starts to stumble, or run rough. That's the point when it's too lean. Then back it out just enough to smooth it out, and walk away happy. You have two idle mix screws, I believe, so turn them both equal amounts, to keep both sides of the engine at the same mixture. In the old days, we used an idle tachometer for this -- sometimes you would see the RPM change before you could hear a difference in how smoothly or how rough the engine was operating.

Keeps the water from rotting the floor. WIN!

Or "TAT." Anyone ever hear of it? I hadn't, until a guy whose YouTube channel I follow started posting about a motorcycle trip he and several other people are taking that follows the "TAT." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans_America_Trail Sounds like it would be a great way for a bunch of Comanche Club folks to get together. Meet up, spend weekend or a week traversing a section of the trail, and enjoy seeing some MJs in action.

Then the answer is dependent on what the travel is for the shocks you're running.

The gauge in your original cluster worked. Why not just move it to the new cluster? You're overthinking this. If the temp gauge in the original cluster worked in the original cluster and doesn't work in the new cluster, it stands to reason that the problem isn't the gauge, it's the cluster. Probably the printed circuit.

Quoted for truth.

Classic Tube is the place, but for a lot less money you can go on Amazon, buy a coil of cunifer (nickel/copper/steel) alloy tube and a roll of gravel shield, and roll your own. Much depends on where you live. If you are in a state that uses salt on the roads, I don't know if even stainless steel will hold up very long.

The "thing" (I won't call it a "problem," because except for the sound it's a feature, not a bug) is that with an I6 the exhaust pulses are perfectly evenly spaced, so the sound comes as more of a steady sound rather than individual pulses. The Jeep 4.0L is especially this way because it's an old-school engine at heart (the basic engine goes back to 1964, in a Rambler). It's a comparatively low-compression engine with a mild, street cam. You can make it sound "pulsier" (to coin a phrase) by switching to a cam with higher left and shorter duration, so the pulses are stronger and have a bit more separation. If you run headers, a true dual exhaust might help, also.

Welcome back, Mate. Who could forget the Tasmanian Devil avatar?

Perfectly okay. Yep. Check the project write-ups. To do it right will take more time that you may have at the moment, because in addition to getting the lateral spacing correct to line up with your springs, you should also set the truck on the new axle at curb weight and adjust the rotation of the differential to make the pinion angle match up with the output shaft at the transfer case. Yes.

Moved to Tech. because it's tech.

It's an in-line six -- there is no way to get it to sound as sexy as a V8. The only exhaust I've ever heard that sounded at all decent on a Jeep I6 was a Gibson. https://gibsonperformance.com/p-27232-jeep-exhaust-systems.html

It could also be a stuck starter solenoid.

DRAT! Minuit, many thanks for running that test, and documenting it so thoroughly. Now we know -- the only solution is to find a sender that matches the gauge, or find a gauge that matches the sender.

Timing chain sprocket can only go on the crankshaft one way, and the sprocket is marked for aligning the chain to the cam sprocket. You're doing a 4.0L, so the cam is in the block even if the head is off. Look at the valve lifters. On the compression stroke, both will be down -- on the exhaust stoke, one will be up.

Somebody just posted a few days ago about finding a old junkyard. On of the photos showed an MJ with an intact slider rear window. Look in The Pub.

His system is different. Your fuel sender resistance range is 0 ohms empty, 88 ohms full. The HO system is reverse ~~ 105 ohms empty, 5 ohms full.

^^^ Exactly. That's why you shouldn't just stick it back in and drive it again. The simplest solution is a YJ yoke. I'd have to look for the part number, but there's a YJ yoke that's something like an inch longer than the XJ/MJ yoke. It's not an ideal solution, but it's less money than a new drive shaft. If you need to drive it home, you can drive it on the front axle in 4WD with no rear drive shaft. To prevent the fluid from spewing out of the transfer case, you can find a small soda bottle and put that over the tailshaft housing with a hose clamp to contain the joy juice.

Connecting it again is easy. But it won't solve the problem. Your driveshaft is now too short. If you connect it again, it will fall out again, and the next time it may do more serious damage. DON'T just stick it back in and drive it.

Possibly a bent drag link or bent tie rod?