Minuit

If it does it again, unplug the tape mechanism.

Outside air temp sensor. That's the only thing in that area that uses the Chrysler Wedgelock connector. I have spotted part of the wiring for it on my 91 as well. Can't remember if it goes all the way down to the mounting location as seen here. It was offered on higher trim XJs starting in 1990. There are lots of unused connectors such as this for XJ only features. Can make your life easier if you ever want to add that.

I was curious as to the source of the column shifter as well.

Should be a nice diagram in the FSM. My access is currently limited or I would pull it.

I think a random stranger gave the OP the gift of Jeep parts.

Life's struggles have a way of making us better people.

One of these days I need to just sit down and make a video on the 15205238526 ways you can handle adding an (insert media type here) input to these radios. By far the easiest way with the Chrysler tape decks is the "snip VR71", pre-amp signal with NO DC BIAS (in other words, AC coupled) into TP371 and TP471), the two TP pins being left and right pre-amp input respectively. This is not something unique to Jeep tape decks, by the way. Everyone who's ever added an after-the-fact input to a sound system has done more or less the same thing. Whether this be done by simple means of a headphone cable or by hiding a multi-input Bluetooth receiver inside the radio, powered by the radio's internal power supply, is up to the needs, wants, and skill of the individual performing the task. There are several points inside the radio in which 12V can be found. A good place to tap into would be on the downstream side of the fuse header (which takes some disassembly to get to) - 95% of these radios are fused at 7.5 amps - you'll be fine adding the minuscule amount of power that a properly designed wireless receiver draws.

Follow up information: The only deviation from stock I have is that I have added "The Cure" the tie rod end boot. Everything else is just stock replacement parts with about 15,000 miles on it. Steering damper is an OME unit which made a surprising amount of difference in the steering feel. I am very much interested in the best steering feel I can get. Even if I have to replace some "already replaced" parts to do it. My truck has about a 30 degree slice of on-center play where turning the wheel does a little bit, but not much, and yes, I did adjust the box per the FSM procedure before putting it in. It's just a clapped out junkyard unit with unknown mileage.

Borgeson appears to have the market cornered for new (not remanufactured, new) Saginaw-style steering boxes, and as the owner of an MJ which lives on the street, I'm big-time interested in that. They get good reviews (claims of "feels like rack and pinion") in the muscle car circles, and I see at least two highly positive reviews from people who've put them on TJs. My question - has anyone here coughed up the $500 for one? They promise "modern steering feel" - I know what that is, and I know my truck ain't anywhere close to it right now, but I do know that I would happily pay $500 for it to have it. It mounts with the 4-bolt pattern rather than the 3-bolt pattern our trucks use, but that 4th bolt hole appears to not foul on anything and just in free air. They have the same 12.7:1 ratio as the ZJ box (I have a worn out one in my truck now, it's a minor but noticeable improvement) and all other key dimensions appear the same (pressure/return port size, input/output shaft size) - one thing that I'm not sure of is fluid demand, but my pump is tired after 193k miles so I'd probably be changing it at the same time as the box anyway. If nobody else sees any reason I shouldn't, I might just be the guinea pig after payday next week. https://www.borgeson.com/Borgeson-Street-and-Performance-Series-12.7-1-Ratio.html

#8 sheet metal screws of various lengths and head types (standard pan head and washer head) make up a majority of the interior screws in the cab. Mostly 1/2" to 5/8". Black oxide was the original finish for most of them. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sheet-metal-screws/steel-phillips-rounded-head-screws-for-sheet-metal/ https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sheet-metal-screws/phillips-flanged-extra-wide-rounded-head-screws-for-sheet-metal/

If AMC era, one is a speaker (typically the right front negative) and one is ground. What kind of radio? Post pics if you are able. Here is '86 and '87 typical as a quick guess. '84 and '85 have different connections but colors are mostly the same other than negative wires being shared between both speakers on the same side of the vehicle. Minuit checks occasionally, has time to respond infrequently. Hope to change soon but work schedule shows little sign of letting up. Minuit needs to get better about letting go at quittin' time. Bright side: I re-charged the AC on the '91 today and it works awesome.

What I'm saying is, you may have an excessive high side pressure causing your compressor to experience too much resistance. It's more likely to be something with the clutch, but checking pressures is such an easy first step that it should never be ignored.

May also be worth checking pressures to make sure system pressure is not excessively high relative to temperature.

Good options too. Shame about no A/C though.