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Lug nut PSA


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Check them regularly. I was torquing mine quick on Sunday while finishing prep for the truck’s road trip and the lug nut broke. It wasn’t bottomed out on the brake rotor either, it just broke. It must have had a hairline crack in it. 
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Isn't that the old AMC style? I will say, if you go from steel rims to aluminum, get fresh lug nuts. The ring steels put on lug nuts can mess up aluminum rims. Also get the correct type for Jeep rims. 

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26 minutes ago, 75sv1 said:

Isn't that the old AMC style? I will say, if you go from steel rims to aluminum, get fresh lug nuts. The ring steels put on lug nuts can mess up aluminum rims. Also get the correct type for Jeep rims. 

Nope. These are the correct ones for the aftermarket aluminum wheels that I have. 

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10 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

Nope. These are the correct ones for the aftermarket aluminum wheels that I have. 

OK, they look like the ones off my Bricklin. Then again, it has its 'unique' wheels.

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Those are the lug nuts the parts stores keep trying to sell me for my Jeeps. Pretty sure they don’t fit any of the stock wheels. I’ve always kinda suspected they were for aftermarket wheels that aren’t hub-centric, but never really tried to confirm that.

 

And yes. Lug nuts are important. Any time you torque them to spec, drive 30-60 miles, retorque. If you get a lot of movement out of the retorque, do another interval. Other than that I would leave them alone unless something weird happens. When you have the wheels off, make sure the nuts spin down by hand. If not, chase the threads, or at least wire brush them. Rotating your tires every other oil change is enough to keep the nuts from seizing so I personally wouldn’t use any sort of lube on them, just like manufacturers will tell you not to.

 

One other point on if you switch over to aluminum wheels from steel, make sure you’ve got good thread engagement on the nuts. Steelers are thinner and often come with shorter studs.

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Invest in Mcgard lug nuts. I bought a box of one hundred off ebay for $166 a couple years ago. That’s enough to do five rigs. That’s only a $1.66 a nut.

Cheap parts store nuts are more expensive than that.
I have one that I have used just for pulling wheel studs through axle flanges with an impact, there is no wear on threads or the outside of the nut.

 

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I've searched every FSM I have and haven't found a winter or summer specific wheel nut torque. I've found online some steel wheel vs aluminum wheel lug nut torques. And, I've found winter and summer engine oils. 

I'm stumped. I was planning on driving from Arizona to Alaska this fall...........

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39 minutes ago, omega_rugal said:

are you sure it wasnt overtorqued? expansion and contraction due temperature crack them if they are to tight

I was going for 100 foot pounds. 

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Had a lug nut I was trying to remove once that a tire shop had put on my MJ. Destroyed two wrenches and a socket trying to remove it. Finally got it off with heat and using about a 12’ bar on a 1/2” drive straight wrench with an impact socket. My impact wrench couldn’t even remove it.

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8 hours ago, omega_rugal said:

100 is a little on the over tight side

My truck also doesn’t have the stock axles either. 
 

This thread is just out there to make people aware of another failure point for lug nuts. 

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7 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Some kid with a 1/2" impact put it on? 

I've gotten into the habit of using a torque wrench. 

Those "torque sticks" most tire shops use now are great.

 

We used a torque wrench on mine, after leaving them short with the battery impact. 

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3 hours ago, watchamakalit said:

I usually torque mine to 80ftlbs.

I go 75lbs on aluminum wheels.

I give my threads just a dab of grease. 

 

Some wheels are listed at 110lbs........start galling the aluminum, especially on deep socketed aftermarket wheels and you are screwed. 

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