rylee144 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 I am taking apart the front end of my dana 30 and of course the last one is the hardest. The first picture shows what I'm working on. The second shows the small window to see the nut. The third is a poor picture of another window to the nut. Do I need a special tool to get in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Thats supposed to be a flag nut. Not a regular nut. So thats the easiest way to replace it. You'll have to get it out the same way they got it in I bet, with a struggle. Lol. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 A box end or open end wrench should do it. I'm able to do it on mine. It's more just to hold the nut so you can turn the bolt from the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 What brand of wrech do you have. Mine are too thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Someone else may chime in but if the little lock tab is broke or missing the only way I’ve found to grab that nut is to use an offset wrench like this Unofortunaly the last 2 or so trac bars I’ve remove seemed to have the nut frozen or welded to the bolt or something to the point where the nut would not spin so I just took a sawzall and cut the bolt between the mount & the trac bar towards the nut side of the bolt and slid the bolt out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 My father and I cut a big enough hole in that spot because the flag but rusted apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 Thank you all for the options! Happy to be working on the truck again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Sometimes you can jam a screwdriver/chisel/punch between the flat on the nut and the inside part of that "box" to keep the nut from spinning. Doesn't always work, but it's worth a shot. Otherwise use an offset box end wrench as suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 just cut it and install new. nothing a welder can't fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 I've got a cheapo wrench set from Farm & Fleet and the box end fits in the gap. I've noticed that some brands do have very large wrenches, Dewalt being one of the worst offenders. Just run to the store and get the thinnest wrench you can. Don't start hacking things apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Also, simple but important tip I've learned the hard way. Don't wait until you're screwed before using PB Blaster and/or heat. Save yourself the headache and soak it in PB Blaster before attempting anything, and when ready to take it appart, heat up the nut before wrenching on it. I've been so many times in a world of hurt that as soon as I see a bolt/nut that looks remotely rusty, I do this now and save a lot of time. Especially on my Jeep, which I'm considering naming Murphy, because like Murphy's Law, everything that can go wrong, will go wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 FWIW, Machinist Digest did a comparison on penetrating fluids. The BEST, hands down was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I keep it in a squirt bottle all the time, and use it a couple of days before I start a project underneath. That and heat make Jeep life so much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 9 minutes ago, BeatCJ said: FWIW, Machinist Digest did a comparison on penetrating fluids. The BEST, hands down was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I keep it in a squirt bottle all the time, and use it a couple of days before I start a project underneath. That and heat make Jeep life so much better. Really? I'll give it a shot since I've got both on hand! However, PB has been very good to me until now unlike WD40... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 Got it done. Thanks! I ended up using a box end wrech and a pry tool to hold it down and it rattled right off. Took far longer than it should have. Next task grinding the xj perches off the 8.8. Thanks again for the attention Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 6 hours ago, OldSch88L said: Really? I'll give it a shot since I've got both on hand! However, PB has been very good to me until now unlike WD40... I've had good luck with PB Blaster, too. But mixing yourself is a lot cheaper, and as much as you need it with a Jeep, I'll take every break I can get. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 I use PB Blaster, Knock'er Loose and Kroil, and I keep about a pint of ATF/acetone in a glass jar. It does seperate back out over time, but you just have to shake it back up into suspension and it's ready to go. I've got a couple old timey squirt oil cans with the loooong spouts on them (inherited from my grandfather) that make quick work of getting the mixture into difficult places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 On 10/10/2020 at 5:31 PM, rylee144 said: Got it done. Thanks! I ended up using a box end wrech and a pry tool to hold it down and it rattled right off. Took far longer than it should have. Next task grinding the xj perches off the 8.8. i bet it doesn't take as long next time! good job. we all have been there, what makes this a great club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 remember to tighten before loosing. that has helped me over the years. and shock treatment with a bfh also aides in therapy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 When you go to replace it, use a TJ rear tracbar bushing. They used a larger 1/2" bolt size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 I cut off the xj spring perches a while back. Do the shock mounts need cut off too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 umm if they don't line up then yeah have to cut and weld on for proper fitment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 they are 90* out of alignment (and one in front and one behind) so I would slice them off and start from scratch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 On my truck (granted, it was with an 8.8 swap), we cut off all of the brackets and just used the stock MJ shock mounts on the U-bolt mounting plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 8 hours ago, 89 MJ said: On my truck (granted, it was with an 8.8 swap), we cut off all of the brackets and just used the stock MJ shock mounts on the U-bolt mounting plate. I did this as well on both my C8.25 swaps. Don't change the factory setup unless you have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 9 hours ago, 89 MJ said: On my truck (granted, it was with an 8.8 swap), we cut off all of the brackets and just used the stock MJ shock mounts on the U-bolt mounting plate. So the original u bolt mount from the dana 35 worked with the 8.8 u bolts? I was thinking they'd be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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