Minuit

If we wanted any hope of containing this, we should've shut the country down weeks ago. That ship has sailed. We're a little less than 2 weeks behind Italy. Italy is in bad shape right now. Any containment decisions will take 10 days or more to show results. Even if we banned everyone from leaving the house right now, we'd still be seeing new cases pop up that were transmitted days ago. I don't plan on interacting with anyone that isn't a member of my household until Friday at the earliest - and that's only because I have to for work, unless that gets shut down too. Suits me, I've got projects to do around here anyway.

The nature of my work doesn't really make WFH a possibility. So far my schedule will not change. That being said, if I get some downtime, the birdy bird is due a new radiator and a bunch of new suspension bushings, and the 91 needs the steering wheel straightened. Other than that I have nothing in mind. Definitely won't be shipping radio orders unfortunately - I just recovered from a severe lung infection and the post office will be a no-go.

70 ft-lbs factory spec, but after a few miles they tend to tighten themselves to acetylene torch ft-lbs.

Here in the US, we're doing things a little... different. Yeah. Different. South Korea is testing roughly 10,000 people every single day. You can just drive up in your car and get the results in a day or two. Today they reported more recoveries than new cases. The richest country in the world has managed to test 14,000 people since the beginning. The CDC had its budget cut massively a couple of years ago. WTF? Those in charge have failed us, as usual. It's almost as if they want this to be as bad as possible. And then we have the legions of morons that think hoarding a bunch of toilet paper is going to make the situation any better. I'm young and in above average health. Relative to most I have pretty much nothing to worry about. But the right time to get our act together was months ago.

They started using relays with the door switches in 91. I strongly, strongly recommend you use them. The Renix years are infamous for their weak power locks. Use proper relay sockets, not quick connect terminals.

Add that to the ever-growing list of reasons I'd never voluntarily live in California.

Do not be surprised if it howls for a long time to come. Like a noisy, annoying cockroach. I've had a pinion bearing howl in my 91 since day one. Hasn't gotten appreciably worse in the 50,000 miles I've put on the truck. "weeeeeee!" I change the fluid every 20k miles or so. I tried thicker fluid and it did nothing to change the noise. I'm gonna let it go until I get my MJ D44 built up. Cheapest? Another MJ D35. They aren't worth a dime and are pretty much the only thing that are a direct fit. 97+ for the 8.25. Some say it was a mid-96 change from the 27 to 29 spline axles, but I cannot verify that myself. The factory LSD was clutch based and, unless the axle has less than about 75k on it, is probably effectively an open diff at this point. The LSD carrier can be spotted by the shape of the non-ring gear side of the carrier. The LSD carrier is shaped like a cylinder. The open carrier has a much more rounded shape on that side.

Fronts are fairly common to find as NOS and can be adapted to the rear easily (and I think front mud flaps on the back look a lot better than any of the regulation rears). Mopar sold them as "splash guards" - you will want to expand your search terms to include that.

I'll add that the 97+ door checks are of a much improved design. They have a rubber damper at the end of the door travel to prevent the door from slamming hard into the hinge stops.

Since the document says there's a plug, I wonder if there's a plug in my 96 dash I can take out to re-enable the lap vent? May investigate this tomorrow. I for one would like to have that vent working.

I'm pulling up several pics of 1994s that do not have the vent, and the lower panel is one contiguous piece.

So THAT'S why my ball cooler vent stopped working after I put a 96 dash in my 91! Looks like it might have been eliminated in 94. I believe that's when the "relay center" in the dash harness appeared.

His are probably better than mine. Some of mine have some slight warpage. Not to mention closer.

I relate to this on a deep level. I think all of us "token mechanically inclined friends" have been there before.

I like toys that can do work for me. I do a lot of electrical work, so I've accumulated a lot of electrical toys - in particular, vintage test equipment. And if I ever get over this damn lung infection I'll get back to playing with them. Tektronix THS720P - combination 100 MHz digital storage oscilloscope and graphing multimeter. Battery or 12V operated with roughly 4 hours of battery life. This comes out if I can't diagnose a car or other mobile electronic fault with a regular DMM. Also helpful for short term datalogging and glitch captures. Seen here diagnosing an intermittent GM yaw rate sensor. One of these days I'll capture the waveforms that known good Renix and HO sensors produce and share them on here for gits and shiggles. This one has a special software package able to take certain power industry related measurements, and is fully isolated. Also great for setting gains on amplifiers. HP 54645D digital storage oscilloscope - with a whopping megabyte of waveform storage (plus an optional module that allows for 100 saved waveforms), this was one of the most advanced pieces of lab equipment in the world in 1997. Used for all sorts of electronics diagnosis. Also features 16 digital channels for any really fancy projects. You can also play Centipede on it. I recently scored this damn near NOS one for obscenely cheap. Fluke 45 dual-display multimeter - Another old classic, this is a precision multimeter that can make two measurements at the same time. When I got it, its calibration was even still in date! Featured in a custom enclosure I built just for it. HP E3615A 20V, 3A power supply - simple, reliable, and easy to use. It'll be kicking long after the fallout comes, giant cockroaches rule the world, and we're fighting each other over cans of beans. Every radio I've touched since early 2019 has been hooked up to this at some point. Tektronix 2236 - dating back to 1984, this is the oldest piece of gear I have right now. It's not in active service right now, since it needs some maintenance and a calibration. Soon...

I can see the sneaky fake rivet wheel too. Not a bad price honestly. I've paid more for wheels in worse condition.

My 89 has the square ignition key and round door key as well. The keys do not fit in the wrong locks as the keyways are mirrored. I wonder how they did it. Do the locks work smoothly?

Pictures?

I've been driving to northern Alabama for work related stuff this week, going though a bunch of small towns. In my truck of course. I've never seen more 90s Ford Thunderbirds, FSJs, or old Datsun pickups in one place. Not a single MJ to be found.

I'm beginning to have evil thoughts. These, not what usually comes up when you search for "Icon" wheels. Available in dark and light silver. Found on 2000-2001 XJ Limited and Classic.

Cleaning C100, the main bulkhead connector (that's the only other connector I know the reference designator for) will help "general electrical malaise" too. Get the petrified tar out, brush contacts clean and pack it with new dielectric grease to prevent water ingress. Nasty job.

That's my approach to things. If I wanted to sell, I'd put a for sale sign on it. If I wanted it broken up and sold for parts, I'd do it myself. That being said, there is no number small enough to write on all of the paper in the observable universe that will convince me to part with one, and I have cool plans for the other. Now if someone wants to just bull$#!& and burn daylight talking about jeeps without any pretense of making an insulting BS offer like this type of people always do? Come on down!

You may also want to check for damage at the ignition switch on the Overloaded Brown Wire™ circuit, midway down the steering column. You may also want to consider adding a new ground for the blower motor if significant (by significant, I mean anything really that's more than 0) resistance to ground at the blower motor circuit is found after cleaning. However, given the overloaded nature of the circuit that supplies power to the blower motor and any number of electrical resistance sources along the way, I'd start by cleaning connections and making sure the ignition switch isn't about to catch on fire. Do you have a digital multimeter? If you own a Renix Jeep long enough you're gonna need one.

Yep. In "Charcoal"/ dark bluish grey. That's what that seat appears to be though.

Saving this for when I setup my MJ D44 and soon to be acquired D30