Minuit

I've got the Hellas in my 91. No complaints whatsoever. Great visibility. And nobody would ever notice they aren't stock unless you look right into them.

The Comanche is an entirely different beast from what you have. The Comanche is based on the small XJ Cherokee that first came out in 1984, so we're probably not the right group to ask. That being said, the dash you're looking for should be the same as the full size SJ Cherokee and Wagoneer of the same year.

According to this map, it doesn't get all that much worse than it is here. Not surprising to me at all, considering the number of morons in this state that can't bear the very minor inconvenience of putting on a cloth mask for the protection of others.

Another place to check for seam sealer gaps is the extreme passenger side of the firewall. I've heard of water wicking through there and getting inside too. This is why there's no easy answer to this problem, because the easy answer is EVERYTHING WILL LEAK.

'91 4.0 SporTruck with AW4 and A/C as only other options - with an "engine knock" that was just loose flexplate bolts, dead fuel pump, and a heavily smoked in interior - $75 in 2012 as part of an "if you get it running, it's yours" arrangement. The paint was even half decent at the time.

And among automatic transmissions the AW4 has a reputation for generating a lot of heat, or more correctly, wasting your engine's power as heat. Insulation on the transmission tunnel area is worth thinking about, but extra cooling for the transmission fluid is especially worth thinking about for a variety of reasons.

I had severe issues with a set of Discoverer AT3s being out of round a few years ago. I've avoided recommending them since then.

All of the above, plus the fact that these things are insanely easy to lose. I've probably lost 5 or 6 of them in the past few years. I'm used to seeing them on Limited trim XJs, but I'm fairly sure they also came on the Laredo and whatever the top '86 MJ package was called too.

Every example of the factory vinyl flooring I've seen, even the very well preserved one in my 91, crumbled to dust the second you tried to remove it from the truck. That may or may not be due to the climate where I live. The factory carpets in these trucks fit very well, but you will probably have trouble finding one in good shape. All aftermarket carpet/vinyl flooring for the MJ is made by a company called ACC, regardless of where you buy it from. Do not expect it to drop in. You will need to carefully cut it for anything that comes through the floor and trim the excess. To get it right for me took a couple days of off and on work, but I was and still am satisfied with the result. The leaky nature of the MJ's cab combined with the way it's designed makes me cautious about applying anything directly to the floor without doing some homework first unless you want any floor rot you have to come back with a vengeance. I'd limit any application of sound deadening mats such as Dynamat to places where water can't pool. I'd also say to throw any jute padding away as it will turn into a moldy sponge if exposed to water. I don't have any opinion on those spray on coatings. Never driven around in a vehicle with it applied, and I've not used it myself. My advice for dealing with any rust you have (and believe me, even if you don't see it, it's almost certain to be there), as always, is to get a spot weld drill set and go to town separating each layer of the floor so you can be sure that any rust is gone, properly prep both sides of the floor braces, apply *insert coating of choice here* to everywhere except the immediate welding area and plug weld it back together.

If we have a president, we have to have a vice president... and a cabinet! I hereby nominate myself for the position of "Secretary of 'Leak Test Your MJ'"

I would absolutely love to have a repeat of 2019. If I'm able to drive by show time, count me 100% in. Even if I have to take time off work.

Yep, probably time to take the latch mechanism off and clean the old lube out and replace with new.

This is why I can't seem to get a sentence out of my mouth without mentioning water leaks. Kind of like Cato the Elder: "blah blah blah, and furthermore, leak test your MJ" Yours might be a little bit of an extreme example, but anyone who has not leak tested their truck likely has this going on under their carpet and probably won't even know about it until they notice a musty smell or their floors are gone from under them. Forget about salt, at least you can SEE the damage from salt before it's too late. And it's a serious problem unless it hasn't rained in 25 years where you live.

I have a handful (boxes, not knuckles) right next to me right now and I'd say probably. As long as you can close the box, you're good edit: Hmm, judging by the replies above me CC is well versed in knuckles in USPS flat rate boxes

Radio plugs! And radio, if it's not an RX-141. I think the climate control panel has a different font and maybe different connections. The clock, if equipped, is that early 84-86ish style with sweet vacuum fluorescent display.

I for one am glad that we as a community are getting stricter on our definition of "rust free" - although to be fair to the seller, that could be mud on the floors. The pics aren't good enough to tell. Even if the view after pulling up the carpet was absolutely pristine, I still wouldn't call it rust free until I popped the frame plugs out and looked around inside with a borescope. Also, that truck's likely to be a hillbilly hackjob of the worst degree, and none of you should touch it. Flat camo/"OD green" paint is a bad mark in my experience. Same for a huge hole in the fender for a snorkel, to be honest. That's the kind of truck I'd expect to find a few random, unlabeled "extra wires" with no attempt to protect them.

Just so you know, the connector for the '91 clocks is still available from Delphi

For me to get the yardstick out and start mercilessly whacking the truck with it until there's nothing left, it takes a certain level of detail in the ad and I prefer to spend the time on ads in places that seem to have some pretense of class. This one doesn't really have enough, and the pictures they give are kind of crap. Not surprising for what looks like a seedy dealership with "fast and easy financing available!" It appears to me that from a distance, they didn't really try to get it right. If you add up the Comanche badges not even being in the right zip code and the SporTruck stripes being way too low, the end result might cancel out.

There should be a P-clip on the driver side upper control arm bolt that keeps the cable away from the exhaust. But saying that, my original cable doesn't look like it has as much slack as yours.

Just about thought I was going to have to get out of my chair and get something done while the forums were down. Thanks for all you do.

Remember that this all probably started with one guy getting bitten by a bat. An outbreak is only possible to contain when there are a very small number of confirmed cases and you have enough manpower to trace them. Considering that kids of pretty much all ages are snot-nosed virus cannons packed tightly together who will then spread it on to their parents (who may or may not be diligent about their own safety and the safety of others), it's absolute madness to open up in-person schooling right now. This thing is not to be underestimated. It's what everyone thought SARS was going to be back in the early 2000s. It can @#$% your body up for the rest of your life even if you recover. If you're old or have a weak immune system, it has a pretty good chance of killing you slowly and painfully. It's killed nearly a quarter of a million people in the US alone that we know of. The real answer is probably considerably higher. The current scientific consensus is that, on average, each case of this virus will cause between 5 and 6 new cases if no precautions are taken. Who will then each cause 5-6 new cases, and so on. This thing can get out of hand very quickly, and the people in charge are (for once) doing the right thing by keeping schools closed. We had a chance at containing this virus in this country. That window closed months ago. Now all we can do is prevent as many people from getting it as possible. I'm not an epidemiologist, but this is not a laughing matter.

When you skip leg day...

Is "I wouldn't buy one new - I'd get into the hobby in 2002 when they were still relatively common, and with a junkyard/NOS parts base that still existed - and then do everything I've done to my 91 but maybe try to find some leather seats" an acceptable answer? This is actually difficult, because a number of the options I want (power windows and locks) had been canceled by 1991 because Jeep knew that the ship was sinking and there was no point in adapting many of the improvements to something they were about to stop producing. So unfortunately, if you want the massively better '91 fuel injection and electrical system, you're stuck with an option list that maxes out at "base model Laredo with crank windows" There's also the things that just plain were never available on the MJ (power mirrors, overhead console, hand parking brake, power antenna) that I would want. But if I was stuck to the factory catalog offerings, here's how I think I would do it: '87 long bed Silver or black 4.0/4x4. Roll the dice on automatic vs. BA-10. No real preference. Fog lights Tow package Limited slip rear differential Air conditioning Cruise control Tan interior with plaid bucket seats and full console Power windows and locks RX-135 radio So basically "give me everything"