Minuit

3/4"x16 is the oil filter thread used by the HO years, so yes.

I just (less than a week ago) put a Spectra heater core in mine. The foam "seal" it comes with is pretty cheesy compared to the old one, but the old one was ruined and soaked with coolant anyway. Other than that, it doesn't leak for now so I don't guess I can complain. I bought mine from Rockauto and it was packed horribly (in fact, I had to get Rockauto to send me another one as the first one I bought got bent during shipping). I had to make the screw hole on the bracket that connects the tubes bigger so that the factory screw would fit. It only uses that screw hole, whereas the factory core also has a screw at the bottom. I'm not impressed with the part but at least my heater works now. Typical aftermarket junk.

:agree:

I have a radio now.

Hey fellas, I'm in the market for a factory AM/FM/tape deck for my truck. I would prefer it not have a "CLK" button, but I would be fine with it having it as long as the radio is in good condition. It must be in good cosmetic condition (paint mostly not rubbed off the buttons, etc), and all of the radio's functions must be tested and known good. The tape players in these can be unreliable and I've already bought 2 radios with dead tape players. Thanks for looking. One of these:

Green stuff. Our trucks aren't picky. I usually run the stuff O'reilly Auto Parts sells since they're closest to my house but they're all pretty much the same.

...and now it even makes hot air!

I'll stick with my "classic" one. When these new ones are 25 years old I think most of 'em will have long since been turned into soda cans. Maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way, but new cars these days just seem so expendable.

Sorry for the unconstructive waste of space of a post this is going to be, but I just wanted to get this out. New timing chain that hopefully won't fall apart, new driveshaft so it doesn't shake my teeth out, new upper control arms and bushings. Drives just like a brand new one. It's good to be home. So tired of driving cookie cutter front wheel drive GM boxes and Fords that fall apart at the slightest provocation. Now it's time to put a heater core in it before Saturday. :fs1:

I believe the factory top speed of an MJ is something like 116 mph (don't quote me on it, read it somewhere) Mine's a short bed and I don't normally run a topper so my rear end is lighter than some, but I don't think even with the totally unrebuilt 25 year old drivetrain it would have any problem reaching that speed. At my estimated high score of 93, the truck didn't feel like it was even trying. Just a slightly louder buzzy straight 6 sound than normal.

Driveshaft was done. 2wd Comanche driveshafts have a layer of rubber inside them, and this eventually wears out and causes an imbalance. A new driveshaft fixed the problem. While it was out, I checked the bushing at the tailhousing and it seemed fine, but I did discover my transmission mount is worn out.

Looks like someone has added a coil spacer. It also looks like it's missing the rubber isolator at the top of the spring. Here's my unlifted 2wd from the same angle. There should be rubber on the end of the bump stop (the part going through the spring). They tend to crumble apart and fall off. Your rear suspension looks stock to me, so someone probably wanted to level it out with the spacer.

Wow, you work quick. I like the way this is going. I'm usually part of the "don't cut up an MJ" crowd but I really like what you did. :thumbsup:

Start up a thread in the Your Project MJs section. That way you can put all of your pics and plans and build updates, etc. in one place. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

:doh: I thought you were talking about the 3 speed auto the 86 MJs had... :doh:

I've seen a few '86 MJs with a column shift Don. They have the indicator on the column like your truck. There's a pic in here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49003-ny-1986-lwb-28-v6-part-out-36k-miles/?do=findComment&comment=500874

I believe it and I've heard that as well. I don't think it'll be long before the only half decent parts out there will be NOS. I don't have much faith in aftermarket junk as it is.

Back when the speedometer still read about 9% low I pegged the 85mph speedometer on an empty road (actual speed ~93ish). Nothing scary happened and if anything it smoothed out a bit. Of course, my front end has quite a few new parts sprinkled in, but if a stock MJ doesn't feel stable at ~75 something is quite wrong IMO. Also, :agree:

Looks like I'm wrong then. Edited my post. With that said, I'd still rather have the Moog control arms as Dorman's quality isn't exactly great in my experience.

Yeah, I can almost see it going for that price. Only problem is the mileage, but if it's been as well maintained as it looks then that's really not a big deal IMO. Wonder if the bottom end has ever been rebuilt?

Started putting things in alphabetical order and editing titles for clarity. If you see an asterisk (*) next to an entry, that means the post is missing one or more pictures. Should be able to work on it for about another hour later on today. As I'm considered a moderator in the DIY projects subforum, any questions, concerns, cries of outrage, and suggestions can be directed to me as well. If you see any weirdness with how the list looks, don't be alarmed. I can't easily save a copy of the post on my computer, so I have to edit the post and resubmit it to make changes, and if I'm in the middle of something that means the list might look strange for some amount of time.

I was going to add this to the master index but it looks like someone's already gone and beat me. This is the best manual swap writeup I've seen :thumbsup:

Looks like you did more or less what I'm going for - stock-ish but gently upgraded. Love it. I like that you added all the details to make it all look factory :thumbsup:

You need a grille for a '91-'96 as said and avoid aftermarket crap for the front clip if at all possible. The parts you need would be plentiful in any half decent junkyard. With that damage you may or may not need to replace the brackets as well. The passenger side oil leak could be several things. The oil filter adapter's o-rings like to leak, but they aren't too hard to replace on these older engines. You'd need THIS seal kit. The one the parts stores sell are missing at least one of the o-rings you will need. If that checks out, you might want to look at the distributor gasket and the oil pressure sensor (that thing by the oil filter with one wire going to it). Possibly also a valve cover gasket. The head gaskets on these are known to seep a little from that exact area (they fixed it with an updated head gasket in ~1993). Unless it's gushing out oil, it's not really going to hurt anything. Other than that, looks like you've got a pretty solid shell to work with. There are no dumb questions on this forum, but if that brake line is under the bump stop, please get it out of the way ASAP. You're not likely to bottom the rear suspension out unless you put WAY too much stuff in the back but if you did it could make for a very bad day. The factory lines have a bend right before going into the drum like so: