Minuit

If the steering wheel isn't to your liking there are literally millions of steering wheels out there that will fit. If you have a harmonic balancer puller or a steering wheel puller it should take no more than 5 minutes. Only thing that could possibly present a problem is getting it on straight.

Pioneer standard features over Base per my 1991 sales brochure: - Short or long bed (according to my brochure, base shortbed = SporTruck. Not sure if that's true or not) - Graphics - Power steering - 15x7 wheels with black hub caps - Color keyed fender flares - Black windshield and side body moldings - "Hockey stick" armrests - Carpeted cab backing - Carpet - Fabric bench seat, buckets optional - 3-spoke steering wheel, color keyed (the station wagon wheel wasn't even available by '91) Pioneer was a middle ground between Base and Eliminator. You could pretty much option it up however you liked, from essentially a striped Base truck to almost Eliminator level (although those awesome cushy bucket seats were Eliminator only) I should probably scan my sales brochure and post it up here. It's got some great pictures.

Any sway bar from an XJ, MJ or ZJ will work. Sizes range from 24 to 28mm. If you're not concerned about road manners any will work, but look for 28mm versions to reduce body roll on the road.

How does the lizard skin work as far as keeping sound levels down? I've heard some reports going both ways. Looking to sound deaden the crap out of my truck in the near future and still looking at lots of different options.

(I'm assuming this meant to go in The Pub and not popular threads? Someone will probably come and move it) My totally stock '91 4.0, 2wd automatic on 29" tires gets a pretty reliable 17-18mpg on the highway as long as I go 70. The Comanche has pretty bad aerodynamics and your fuel economy will be punished heavily at higher speeds because of that. The 2.5 doesn't get that much better mileage that I would specifically look for one (somewhere around 20 mpg usually), and the 4.0 is much more powerful, but with that said the 2.5 is sufficient for a small truck. Both the 4.0 and 2.5 have a similar reputation for toughness as the 300 I6 you have now and produce excellent power for 25+ years old trucks. 1991 or 1992 trucks with the 4.0 have the best parts availabilty, power, and "out of the box" reliability.

Yep. Trucks like this are for people who are very experienced at dealing with rust damage like this (I'd be willing to bet it's even worse than it looks inside the frame) and willing to put in the time and effort to build it into something. Maybe I was a little bit harsh in saying it needs to be stripped and crushed, but it's a hazard to anyone who even sits in it right now.

Very nice. Love how tastefully built it is, although I have to admit I preferred the buckets. :thumbsup:

Wise choice :thumbsup:

Oops. Didn't read. (although making sure the cooling system is free of air might be worth trying anyway) Was it overheating when the upper hose blew? If not that strongly suggests something happened in the process of replacing the hose, although radiator hoses usually don't just explode for no reason.

It's kind of an "if you have to ask, you're not prepared to do it" situation. No offense intended, but you would basically have to completely rebuild the truck's structure on that side. That cancer is far past the point of being terminal. I wouldn't suggest trying to fix that even if it was free. It needs any useful parts stripped from it and then it needs to go straight to the crusher. It's a wonder it hasn't broken in half yet (probably because the body panels are holding the frame together) I just about guarantee that that isn't the only rust - and the cab and frame on these trucks are one unit, so you can't just swap the frames over. Straight, non-rusty Comanches still exist. Build one of those instead.

That's not a Comanche anymore. At all.

I see I have plunged this conversation DEEP into the levels of technicality.

Stranger things have happened. Almost all of our AMC-designed trucks with either Renault-Bendix or Chrysler electrical systems, have Toyota transmissions. The 86s could get a Chevy engine with a Chrysler automatic. With that said we do tend to lump all the French "contributions" to our trucks into a single category of badness, at least I do. The Comanche is a hodgepodge of parts from pretty much everyone. They called it All Makes Corporation for a reason, after all. (or the alternative @$$holes Making Cars) :yes:

Very nice. Always loved how they looked from behind.

Some time around '93 the VSS changed from the 2-wire thing to a 3-wire sensor (and with that change came the short-shaft speedometer gears), but the cluster will treat it the same way. Worked for me. Yet another oddity with the early HO trucks.

The blistering 132 ft-lb of torque the diesel produces IS more in line with the Puke-Box's strength, though. :D

You need a 1991-1996 cluster with a white case. Don't mess with the speedo sensor. The VSS comments above are incorrect. If the tach is adjustable, you will be able to use it on your 4 banger. I'm not sure what years were adjustable and which weren't. I have a 1996 OBD2 cluster in my 1991 truck and everything works like it's supposed to. Speedo, tach, volt meter, and the warning lights on the left side of the cluster will work out of the box. You will need to replace a couple of sensors to make the oil pressure and temp gauges work. One oddity of the 1991 is that it uses Renix (1987-1990) senders for the oil pressure and water temperature gauges. Make sure to specify that you need the sensors for the GAUGES, not the LIGHTS. Parts drones sometimes don't pick up on this important difference - or you can cut out the middleman and get them online (I tend to prefer Rockauto.com)

Nope. The stick-shift diesels got a modified AX5.

Do the compression test first. You don't want to tear into the engine just to realize it doesn't have any compression.

I have recently acquired a set of pivoting vent windows from a 1993 XJ that are in extremely good shape with no rust. I want to put them on my truck. However, I also want to use them without turning my truck into a swimming pool. I'm roughly the third most stubborn person to ever live on this earth so the "just keep the stationary ones that don't leak!" argument just doesn't work on me - what is the point of that stupid triangle glass if it doesn't do anything? There must be some solution out there that keeps the vent windows while improving their sealing ability. Has anyone tried anything and have it work? I have a few ideas but I'd like to know before I dive in.

Yeah, if the engine is mechanically healthy, the leaks can be fixed if it bothers you. Any engine you get will leak. Just a matter of life for our engines. I'd rather replace a cam than a motor if the bottom end was in good shape.

I haven't seen this show or done any research whatsoever, but I'm assuming that this is about keeping the Yank Tanks running?

Not my text: 17. HO engine into Renix This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. 　 Revised 03/28/13 Either engine will require modifications to work in your truck. 88 and '91+ are quite different engines, but the above procedure will basically make the 91 or 96 engine function exactly the same way as in the 88. Are you swapping from a 4 cylinder or are you replacing a 6 cylinder?

Much appreciated (and filed into the ever-expanding Useful Stuff folder). Looks like your wire colors match up to mine exactly. I'd still like to see if I could get a colors-matching harness just to make my life easier, but your pic helps a ton.