Minuit

:bowdown:

It isn't? :doh: As long as I hold the wheel straight it continues to go straight over bumps.

Hey fellas, just wondering if anyone has had experience with this before I dive in and start swapping out parts. My truck ('91 2wd stock height blah blah blah) has slight bump steer. It doesn't rip the wheel out of your hand but if you let off the wheel and go over a bump it's definitely noticeable. I crawled underneath and noticed my drag link and track bar are close to being parallel but not quite. What would cause this? My lower and upper control arms are new, and my alignment is correct. When I crawl under the truck I don't notice any looseness but the front end does occasionally clunk at high steering angles. This leads me to believe I might be needing a track bar - does that sound right? I'm not really feeling like throwing parts at it, or else I'd just replace the entire steering linkage.

This. If the damn thing is gonna act up I'd rather it have the common courtesy to act up consistently.

He done good, but I doubt it was in too bad of shape to begin with :D

Yep. Steering stabilizer will fix the symptom for a little while, but there's still something wrong in your front suspension that's causing it in the first place. Get the truck on jackstands with no weight on the front and check everything for looseness (and also your tires for balance). There should be none.

Exactly what I was thinking. I even have a spare XJ switch plate on hand. If I really wanted to get fancy I could stencil a graphic of a fan above the switch.

I know. :thumbsup: That's why I need to get it charged up soon. Probably would be best if I just wired up a switch anyway. Now to figure out how to make it look factory.

Oh, right. Forgot about the A/C. Still haven't charged that back up after my heater core replacement. Guess I could just turn the A/C on for a minute if it starts creeping up. Would keep the system from just sitting unused too... :doh:

Oh, damn. I seem to remember the aux fan used to come on a lot more than it does now. This evening it didn't come on at a gauge indicated temp of ~225 F (only gets that hot when sitting. Believe my fan clutch to be dying) Way too hot for me to be comfortable. I really don't want to hack into any wiring but I may be wiring a manual switch for it later on.

My truck's been running a little bit warm recently when sitting still, so I decided to check it out. Turns out my electric fan doesn't turn on at all by itself. The fan turns on when the engine temp sensor on the thermostat housing is unplugged, so the fan is in working order. I know the controller for the aux fan is somewhere on the radiator, but does anyone have a pic of where? Unfortunately my FSM is 120 miles away at the moment.

I think the only effect it'll have on us MJ owners is we'll get less comments to the tune of "Jeep never made a truck!" This Wrangler thing and the Comanche are about as different as they can be while both still being called trucks. I mean, I hope MJ values go up, but I doubt it'll amount to anything.

Underhood light switch?

My April 17th '91 is timerless as well.

Yeah, pull the bulb. Might just be the '91 electronics lighting up what it thinks is the MAINT REQD light. :dunno: I highly doubt the '91 has the functionality for the GEN light unless it's internal to the cluster.

I swapped an (I believe) 1996 full cluster into my '91 and it has a GEN light. Not sure what it does, but it never comes on. Is your belt tight?

Bayonet mount

The bayonet mount CCV tubes means you have the factory valve cover (or at least one of the same era). The expensive blue gasket is the correct one. The push-in ones were a feature of the later 1996+ stamped steel covers. Those are the correct springs.

Don't know about everyone else, but my headliner board was damaged. My SMS headliner fits well, only problem is you have to be REALLY careful about the holes for the sunvisor clip (they aren't pre-cut). His headliners are a flexible cardboard-ish material.

Not worth. MJs aren't race cars. Dual diaphragm booster will get you closer though.

Season 6... 1998ish? What I'd do to travel to a time where 6 year old MJs were a thing.

General tip: If one of the choices for a certain part is Spicer, get the Spicer.

Looks like one of those crappy modular aftermarket roll bars.

I think my typical JY's price is $109 including core for a rear axle axle drum to drum. $200 for a front. Would never pay more than $250 or so for a stock used Jeep axle that's not a Comanche D44 or AMC20 in known good shape. And they usually aren't even rusty down here. *was thinking of rear ends, fronts are more expensive. Changed numbers to match.

Not disagreeing with you, just adding to the consensus :thumbsup: Although that does surprise me that there's interchangeability between the Renix years and HO, whether it's the entire column or just the cylinder. (I'd be less surprised if an old school cylinder was thrown in the 1993 column - doubt the GM sourced column itself changed much)