Minuit

There haven't been a lot of comments on here recently. I just wanted to chip in and say that that bumper and the roll bar look really nice!

Maybe your J10 got hit by a shrink ray at some point in its life?

Until this happened to me I had no idea it was such a common problem. Mine got gradually more sluggish until it would barely turn the engine. I thought for sure my at the time brand new battery was a dud. But if it just suddenly quit working and gets really hot when jumped my bet would be on a zonkered motor.

Yeah, those Eliminator wheels look pretty sweet on that MJ. :D

To each his own, I wasn't willing to do that to my truck. I just put the year correct seals in and the problem was fixed. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

I never said it would be a good idea for production, but surely they had to think of doing that at some point. A special model with even a mild factory stroker would be seriously hot **** in the early XJ's time though.

:thumbsup:

Forgive my ignorance, but what is a "roll pan" bumper? A "bumper" that's flush with the rest of the bodywork, not sticking out. Usually painted body color.

I think in a world where we have strokers, the 4.0 is the better starting point. Almost certainly still the 4.0 even at stock displacement. Any idea what kind of power those racing 2.5s made? I'm pretty sure I read that due to SCCA rules they had to use engines below a certain displacement, and that's why they used 4 cylinders. I wonder if that idea ever crossed the engineers' minds back then. No reason they couldn't put 4.2 guts in a 4.0 block with some bigger injectors back in the '80s.

That looks just like the AX-15 in my '89. You can tell by the case that's split laterally (i.e. it has a front half and a back half). Onlyinajeep726's comments about the oil are exactly right. This means you got lucky, since your truck started its life with the Peugeot BA-10/5 (a crappy transmission in comparison to the AX-15) and someone swapped it out with an AX-15. The BA-10/5 also has less pronounced ribs on the case than the AX-15. The drain plug is on the passenger side bottom of the trans and the fill plug is on the driver side. Both are 15/16" if I'm remembering correctly. Make sure you loosen the fill plug before draining the fluid as they can get seized, and it's best to find out the fill plug won't move or is stripped out before you drain all of the fluid out.

I agree. The problem with pre-modified trucks is you have absolutely no idea if whoever did the work was a hack or a perfectionist who took care of every little detail. If the cluster isn't working, that points very strongly to the "hack" end of the scale. A properly done swap would be 100% functional at $9000. The 97+ swap is something that tons of people want to do, but very few have the patience and skills to do properly. Personally I'm very suspicious of other people' work, but that's just the way I am - but if you're considering dropping thousands on someone else's project, you should be too. Like Eagle, I would never buy a truck that someone else has done a lift on. There's too many things that can go wrong and end up killing someone. There's no objective way to value a Comanche. It's worth what it's worth to someone who's willing to pay for it.

Yes.

I've scavenged a lot of XJ parts, and the only one I really remember feeling bad for taking parts from was a very clean all original '88 Limited. Clean leather seats with no tears, all original interior, the works. Probably the second time I went to the junkyard ever, and look at me now. One of my first ever junkyard part swaps was its door panels. What I'd do to have 30 minutes with that XJ today - I'd take way more than just the door panels for sure. That junkyard went through a change of ownership recently, and I keep forgetting to go back and see if it's changed at all.

I'm not a fan of the later weatherstripping, assuming you're talking about the door seals. Makes the doors excessively (and I do mean excessively) difficult to close. Maybe I got a bad batch or just cheap aftermarket junk, but it didn't seem to actually seal any better either.

Neither of mine tick regularly, but in typical 4.0 fashion there's plenty of other noises to go 'round. The '91 has persistent timing chain noise that hasn't gone away despite a new (aftermarket) timing chain. If I feel like messing with it again I'm going to put a Mopar silent chain in there since that engine is in otherwise great shape. The '89 has a metallic sounding CLAP CLAP CLAP CLAP sound and a pretty horrible exhaust leak, not to mention near 0 oil pressure at hot idle. It also feels massively down on power, especially on the highway, compared to the '91. Since we're talking about oil, the '91 definitely seems happier on Rotella than the 10W-30 I was putting in it.

I like this one. A clean, understated build that still looks great. You've definitely done a good job turning this one around :thumbsup:

I thought used veggie oil was the factory recommended lubrication for every component on a Lada? :dunno: (not intended as a response to you gogmorgo, I'm sure you know all of this, but just an addendum for people who haven't heard this stuff before) This is true, but keep in mind that the ZDDP content of Rotella T6 is almost exactly the ZDDP content of a circa 1991 gas engine oil, so just based on oil choice, you can expect similar to original cat life. It's not like Rotella will wreck your cat in 5000 miles. Unless your engine is burning lots of oil, but if it does I would recommend against $50 or more an oil change Rotella. Another reason we see less ZDDP in oils today is that modern engines have less use for it. Our 1960s-designed 4.0s have flat cam followers - which are proven to have longer life with high ZDDP oils. It's a tradeoff that more modern engines don't really have to make - longer catalyst life vs. longer camshaft life.

The 91 seems to like Rotella T6 5W-40 the most out of anything I've put in it with a Wix filter. The 89 gets the cheapest oil I can find with a Purolator filter, but from the sound it makes you'd assume I put sand in instead of oil.

As I recall he swapped a 5.2 into an MJ. The OP's wanting to put a 4.0 from an MJ into a V8 ZJ.

The NSSes were on closeout sale for a while, so people bought a bunch of them up dirt cheap. I wouldn't expect those prices to hold.

:agree: Do that. The XJ tie rod is a little twig compared to the V8 ZJ version.

Stock height on 28.9" tires on both trucks for now... gotta add some variety :D

I'm pretty sure they're all exactly the same.

210 to 215 is normal operating temperature.

When I was in that group the stupid rules certainly didn't keep any of the stupid out. There were FAR more idiots in that group than people who had even the slightest idea what they were talking about. If you wanted to, you could spend all day correcting the BS getting thrown around in there. CC is a better resource in every way.