johnj92131

The factory step bumper is rated as a Class 1 hitch from the factory. Max trailer weight for a Class 1 hitch is 2000 lbs. Closely inspect all the nuts and bolts that connect the bumper to the truck, in addition to inspecting the bumper. I strongly suggest you look hard at installing a Class 2 frame mounted hitch. Even for the most modest trailer weight. The frame mounted hitches were factory rated as Class 2 hitches. Max trailer weight for a Class 2 hitch is 5000 lbs. BUT on a stock Comanche the max tow rating with a class 2 hitch is 3500 lbs, UNLESS the Comanche is "properly equipped". Properly equipped means: 1) Equalizing hitch. 2) Metric Ton/Big Ton package which was a Long Wheel Base Only option. Biggest thing with the Big Ton/Metric Ton package is wider rear brakes of the Dana 44. Metric Ton/Big Ton also includes 4.0 engine, auto trans, p/s, p/b, H.D. radiator, H.D. trans cooler, bigger tires and several other items. Properly equipped Comanche has a 5000 lbs tow rating.

Picture looks good! Love to hear more of the story about how you found it and all the details. Sure there will be more pictures of the interior real soon!

$65 sent via PayPal. Thanks for taking on this project!!!!

Talking about the power from the Edelbrock head - the one fellow who jumped early for the Edelbrock head is a bit disappointed in his results. Says if he were to do it over, it would be without the Edelbrock head. My issue with shows like this: They are just a variation on the ink for stuff deals in the magazines. The vendor gives writer/publishers the stuff, writers write glowing stories, publisher sells magazines with paid advertising. No real critical thinking goes into the show or the magazines.

For Comanche bed size and S-10 bed size numbers see post #7 in this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38023-what-other-camper-shells-fit/ The short answer is the S-10 shell/cap fits, but is a bit short in height.

That picture, I think, was just a tack it in place weld. They showed some additional welding to "finish the adapter. Frankly, the program struck me as just a glorified product pitch. Better than the Home Shopping Network, but not any real educational value in the program.

What year Land Rover? Or do you really mean Range Rover, like with the 3.5, 4.2 and 4.6 Ex Buick V8 engines? Again what years. I see Range Rovers in the pick n pull, but Land Rovers are very, very scarce.

Electrial wire color codes changed frequently over the life of the MJ and the XJ. Engine management systems changed with the 1991 model year when the old Renix FI system was replaced by the Chrysler FI system. The 86 model year offered yet another different engine management with some non fuel injection systems (?). There were also some changes in wire connectors over the 86-96 time period. Your best bet in dealing with these changes is to get a set of factory manuals for various years. Or perhaps ask for a copy of the schematic diagrams from the years you are interested in. Also, do not toss out or damage in any way the old power window switches and wiring or the power door lock controls and wiring. Someone else will want them. My question is why get rid of them? Yes, I like my power windows and door locks and was happy to do the conversion.

How is your stock 25 year old brake booster in your 91? In my 1991 truck, the old booster is just fine. So I think there is a good chance the 20 year old booster in a junk yard is OK also. But, then again, you are getting it in a "junk" yard, right?

Did I miss the rpm at peak horsepower and torque? Also, the cam spec seemed rather wild to me. Lift .512? Picked for peak power over low end torque? Any mention of the compression? How are they going to get that engine in an emission legal Jeep? Answer - they are not. Best thing I got out of the show was the ignition advance for peak power. Wonder how close that is to stock timing?

If the seller is in California, it is his responsibility to provide a smog certificate from a licensed smog station. Is the truck you are looking at in California? How far away is this truck from you? Sounds like it is worth taking a trip to look at. Then go from there.

Edelbrock Head. Here is a parts list from the show web site: http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/EP2015-14/project-242-amc-jeep-six

Dan, Thanks for the heads up on this program. Spike TV 6:30 a.m EST Sunday 7/5/2015 PowerNation: Engine Power Project 242: AMC Jeep Six TV-PG 30 minPat and Mike rebuild and hop up a 4.0L Jeep straight six with trick cam, modified intake and aluminum head. Wonder if it is a HESCO or Edelbrock head? Likely Edelbrock because it is new and because Edelbrock is a better known name. I should record it.

Most of the parts you will need to keep it running are common with the Cherokee. Only a few parts (body mostly) are Comanche specific. So with lots of Cherokees on the island, problems should be few.

Did not have any special thread in mind. Just looking at recent Chevy/GMC truck. Wondering if I really want to spend the money on the Comanche to install a new stroker engine. Or should I just move on from the 25 year old truck.

My better half just replaced her 2003 Camry with a 2015 Camry. Very reliable car. BUT boring is right. It is a good appliance. Just Boring. New Camry ads call the car EXCITING! What a lie! Now, German cars are not boring. And they are not cheap when you take them in for service either. My sister has been driving BMW for 25 years. Minimum dealer charge seems to be $900+ for anything. I have a 96 Passat TDI, dealer service is a little less expensive (not much) and dealer service is frequently terrible at best. You are lucky to find a low miles example. ENJOY it.

You have a nice, stock, well running 1989 - Right? That give you nice knock sensor to back off the timing when you have a bit of knock. It also lets you have better gas mileage than you will get with a 91+ MJ under exactly the same conditions. Your cam and cam timing is set to give you more low end torque than the H.O. engine. Lastly, why would you want to "jury rig" or "bastardize" your trucks wiring? You will never see the 13 extra horsepower in the H.O. engine with the changes you are asking about. The extra 13 horses come at the very top of the RPM range and are there because of the bigger intake ports of the H.O. head, plus the camshaft timing changes. Get your truck in good shape, do the 4x4 conversion and enjoy it. When you are ready to rebuild the engine, strongly consider a stroker crank, set the piston to cylinder quench very tight - like ..035 and bump the compression up to about 9.3 for regular gas, (higher for premium). Or consider an engine conversion to an aluminum block 5.3 ltr Chevrolet truck engine with the latest electronic engine management. That gets rid of a good 100 lbs from the front wheels, 325 hp minimum, a torque curve that is essentially flat from 1500 to 5500 (90% of peak torque). You can use regular gas or E85.

Jim will most likely buy your truck from you if it is cheap enough. He simply can not resist buying a Comanche. If you had two of them, Jim would probably offer to pick them up. For the right price!!!

802 piston is hypereutetic while the 677 piston is a cast piston

I believe in KISS - Keep it Simple. You are talking about a Home Depot truck. So do a decent clutch job, and run it for a few years. Deal with the rest in a few years.

I talked to the product manager at Omix Ada at Bantams Jeep Festival last weekend where they had 7 completely restored vehicles on display . I asked him about reproducing some Comanche specific parts like fuel sending units , tail lights, cab corners , rocker panels and rear bumpers . He said there was not a big enough demand or market to remake parts for the Comanche . He did however say he would talk about remaking the fuel sending unit and if sales were good maybe they would consider doing more parts . He said don't get your hopes up but he would TRY . Actual market demand is the problem. That means people who want AND are willing to spend their money on a remade product. Lots of people want, but most are not willing to part with the money required.

Jim, we are just a couple of old farts. I remember driving with a fellow in high school in a Plymouth with "fluid" drive? Three on the tree with a fluid clutch. Think his car was a 1949 Plymouth. My first car was a 53 Studebaker with a Borg Warner 3 speed automatic and a 232 V8 Edit: I see another old fart answered!

Problem with bumpers and the like is the cost of transportation when you sell them. So you buy the virgin bumper for $40. What do you think it will cost to pack and ship across the country? Maybe $50? So the question is how much will you pay for a good bumper. I know one fellow here who has a very nice one but nobody will pay $200 for a nice stock bumper here on the Comanche Club. We are all just much too cheap for that.

Been for a sale for a quite a while.

A whole lot of very smart work into that 1.5 ltr engine. Know a fellow who is putting a built 1.9 TDI engine in his VW Caddy p/u. Also using and air to water intercooler. With the prices some people want for the 1979-83 VW truck, the Dodge Rampage or it's twins (can not recall the names) just might be worth looking for. Need to check out the weight and size of those old Rampage trucks. Really a great project