johnj92131

Post in the Parts Wanted to Buy section. Contact the several sellers listing part outs in the For Sale section - even if they don't list the tire hoist ASK. Fellow in Colorado wants to thin his stock of used parts. Contact him. Then there is Jim, also in Colorado. He has quite a bit of old parts.

Since you have the engine in the garage, why not go for it. My question is what are you going to use for a transmission? Not sure why so many people want to use the 350 Chevy as a transplant. Just because it is so cheap. Frankly, I think a later all aluminum 5.3 version of the GM/Chevy is a much better choice.

Got the "new" power window lift mechanism back in. Tested the motor before attaching it to the window and it was very quick without a load on it. Then when I went to attach it to the window, noticed that the lift mechanism only seemed to be attached to one side of the window rather than grab the window on two sides. Well, it was exactly that way when I pulled the old lift mechanism, so I tried the window a few times. Guess what? It was every bit as slow as the old motor.Tested it with very light had pressure, window went up and down much faster. Closer look showed the problem seemed to be where the lift mechanism grabs the window, By only holding on one side, the lift twisted and starts to bind. So a trip to the dealer for the proper new parts to grab both sides of the glass. Problem: both parts are NLA, but I did get the part numbers! A quick check on Ebay finds both parts, The "glass retainer" was in France for 6 Euros but 26 Euros shipping. The "retaining nut" was also on Ebay in the U.S. at a slightly more reasonable price. A Google search pointed me to a bunch of Jeep dealer sites, all of which told me the part was NLA. So I sent a p.m. to Don and asked where he pulls up all his NLA parts. Don pointed me to a couple of sites with the parts I needed. Thanks DON! Parts are on order for a $4 and $6 with about $10 shipping on each part from the U.S. Will update this post when the new parts arrive. The other alternative was a trip to the Junk Yard and find the parts I needed - but there is a reason they are called Junk Yards, right? With Cherokee window problems so common, I had little expectation of finding good "glass retainers and nuts". Perhaps the rear Cherokee windows would be a better place to look.

Mikekaz1, Thanks for the explaining the short bed truck above. Now when I look at it, I see the Cherokee roof line.

This is ideal IMO. All the dimensions come out really nice and it seems factory put together. Plus the most useful storage space & more leg room. So where do the parts come from to do this version in REAL Life? What about the interior parts required, where do they come from? The Long Door version uses all factory parts. And I don't like the sub 5 foot bed. Near useless from my point of view. What is the point of a micro bed?

Doc, I really like the look of the longer XJ doors. Hope to see this project move forward. Quite a subtle change that gives you just a little more room in the cab but keeps the stock lines. Most people would have no clue how custom the truck really was.

I am about to replace a very slow power window motor with another used one. Looks like all I need to do is drill out 7 rivets holding the motor and window lift. Any pointers or tips on which bolt/fastner to use as replacements for the rivets. Or should I just use rivets again? That means buying a tool and good size rivets that I will not use for a very, very long time again.

That is a whole lot of advance! What does it do for the rest of the distributor curve? Advance the whole thing? Since you got rid of the UniChip module, what are you using now and did you take a performance hit. You gained a whole bunch of torque with the Unichip and it changed the whole ignition curve. Not just an advance bump. Right???

Why 96? for the OBDII? Myself, I steer clear of 96s if possible, kind of a bastard year, rather not throw anything else into the mix that I don't have to. FWIW, you can flash the codes on an OBDI just as well as pluggin in a scan tool on an OBDII. And not sure but since it's the first year of OBDII, I think you have to swap the complete dash harness because that is where the ECM and OBDII connectors are. Want to avoid the complete dash swap of going to the 97+. More work than I want to do. So that leaves me with the 1996 OBD2 bastard. My main goal here is to get the engine pcm/ecu into the truck. That OBD2 pcm will allow the me to get the ecu reflashed for more power and more timing advance. That is why I want to do it.

Yes, lots of cool high tech upgrades from the factory on later versions of that 3.4 family. The 4.0 basically stopped with the introduction in 1991 of the High Output 4.0

From that green expedition Comanche??? That will be very expensive with the custom bumper and all. I have a not quite complete version of the XJ rear carrier Don posted. I am missing the bumper mounted parts for this carrier and the hinge support bolts to the XJ bumper bracket holes on the unibody/frame. A quick and very dirty test fit I did when I first got that carrier indicated it would take a lot of work. At least some work I did not think I could do - like bending the 1.25" round support all the way to the Comanche bumper mounts. Perhaps Don has some insights on this? For simplicity, I like the GoWesty carrier for the Vanagon (last link in my post). Should be relatively easy to replicate for the Comanche stock bumper. Or so I "think", at least for a street driven Comanche. Don't think it would do well with off the road abuse. I also like the fact that this design seems to require no body modifications. (The stock XJ carrier in Don's picture uses a latch and lock mounted to the XJ tailgate, so I "assume" this would have to stay for it to be adapted to the MJ).

Thanks Don! Bit nicer bump than I had remembered. As long as I have the manifold, may as well get the power steering bracket and use the manifold when I finally build the stroker. The other thing your link points out is the value of proper pcm tuning. My next junk yard buy is going to be a complete engine compartment harness and pcm from a 96 OBD2 Cherokee. Once that is installed in the Comanche, we will see about a retune just for the stock 4.0 and see what that does for the current engine.

Don, Know you used to dyno you truck every so often. Do you have a dyno post before and after just the late intake manifold you could share? Stuff I have read on, puts the gain at next to nothing or up to 50 horsepower. I tend to think it may make for a litter more responsive low end, but no additional horsepower. Think it was more emissions related than anything else, much like the later heads with the smaller exhaust ports to heat the cats quicker. Cam was also changed around the same time, for the same emission reasons. Total gain was 4 horsepower and small adjustments in the torque curve if I remember correctly. Suppose I should look out for the later power steering bracket for my long planned Stroker motor. Have the 2000 and later exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. But don't want to choke the Hesco head with the 2000 exhaust manifold.

Here are a couple of NOS mud flaps sold on Ebay recently: Rear set http://www.ebay.com/itm/331682580767?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Front set http://www.ebay.com/itm/331675798745?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

No luck finding the one I mentioned yet. But I found several more very interesting Comanche Tire Carriers: http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=4445 This one is very high end, but quite interesting to study. http://www.fourwheeler.com/product-reviews/1403-universal-hitch-mounted-tire-carrier/ This one is a Universal tire carrier, but tested for 6 months on a Comanche. Also pricey, but available. The picture in post #8 of this thread is a stock Cherokee accessory tire carrier I mentioned in the previous post. Unfortunately, it is NLA http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?104389-Should-I-buy-a-rear-hatch-spare-tire-carrier Lastly, and just for more ideas. Here is an after market swing away tire carrier for a VW Vanagon, price is actually reasonable: http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?id=23513&category_id=253&category_parent_id=

What reinforcement plates are you speaking of? Do you mean the spacers that go between the frame rails and the hitch for the bolts? I have one on my truck and a spare Drawtite hitch also, so may be able to help. Just let me know the question.

Just got back from seeing the movie. Certainly plenty of action and explosions. How many planets get blown up in the Terminator? Han Solo was the real star of this movie, without Harrison Ford, there was no continuity from the original. Even Princes Liea, now General Liea was just a small, but familiar supporting role.I wondered why Liea seems to have nothing to do with the Force, given that the Force is so strong in her family blood. Remember Ben or Yoda in the first movie saying "There is another:"? The part with the Millenium Falcon lands in the snow on the edge of the mountain cliff - that seemed to be right out of a James Bond movie. Ending seems to point to the plot line for the next Star Wars movie and much bigger roll for Luke Skywalker - or else his nephew will kill him off early in the movie. Much like Alec Guiness was killed of in the first trilogy. The music was also great for continuity from the original. Still the ending of this movie seemed like the year Dallas was consumed by Who Shot J.R. We just had to wait till next season. Worked for the ratings then and will work now.

I have been interested in this project for the last 5 or 6 years. Years ago,a ComancheClub member did attempt to adapt the old XJ tire carrier. Trying to fit the factory 1986-91 XJ swing a way tire carrier that bolts to the right rear side of the XJ body does not work because the XJ body is a different shape than the MJ bed. A whole lot of work to try and in the end it just does not fit properly. There is a factory 1990-93 XJ swing away tire carrier that mounts to the right side of the bumper and to the XJ bumper mount under the bumper. I have one of those in the side yard. A quick attempt to mount it shows the MJ bumper mount is in the wrong position by a good 6- 8 inches. This may be fixable, but not with the bench vice I have in the garage. Another issue with all the factory XJ swing away tire carriers is they were designed to lock on to the XJ rear hatch. Again, it does not fit the MJ tailgate profile without looking bastardized. The receive mounted tire carrier will work, if you have either a front mounted or rear mounted trailer hitch (I have both). Personally, I do not like the look. That leaves a custom swing away tire carrier mounted to the bumper. The factory MJ bumper is way too weak to support a swing away tire carrier without trewisting. So you need a custom rear bumper. Expensive! There is a picture of a very home made swing away tire carrier in the DIY section built with gas or water pipe. Seems to be functional but the author of the post has not been here after posting the picture. So you would be on your own for additional information. I will post a link as soon as I find it.

The seller is just another guy fishing for the "big one" on craigslist. Ask a fantastic price and hope for some bites. Since there is no cost to a craigslist ad, you get all kinds of sellers looking to "strike it rich". Other side of the coin is all us "prospectors" looking to strike it rich with a great craigslist deal.

Groffman: This is a just a suggestion. You need to tell us something about you and your truck. Start a fresh post in the Pub section. Title it "groffman056 has questions". That way all your questions will be in one place and all the serious answers will be in one thread. Saves searching all over the place for your last 15 questions and will eliminate most of the duplicate questions back to you because of a lack of information in your posts. Understand you are new to your truck and have questions. That is OK. BUT you have got to help yourself out. And it will really help you get answers. Lastly, you can help your self by using the search function and READING a lot of the old posts. Most of your questions have been asked and answered in one form or another. As a big bonus, you will learn a whole lot of other things by reading. Also, tell us a bit about yourself, where you live, if this is your first car/truck (sounds like it) Post some pictures of your truck, everybody here likes to see pictures. OK? BTW have you read Cruisers mostly renix tips? Remember it was suggested in response to an earlier question. We really need some feed back from you to properly help.

Simply not enough information to provide a reasonable answer. Assuming a Comanche, What year? Stock engine? Are headers long tube or short tube? Tube diameter? If your ignition iisystem is not in top shape, headers will not help at all. Because headers tend to do more at the high rpm range. Want a bit more power from a stock Renix truck? See Cruiser54's renix tips. One of them is to use a 1990 ecm. Another deals with an exhaust restriction built in at the factory to speed the engine warm up.

Without a new engine? Put a supercharger on your old engine. The supercharger will boost your low end power in a way you can feel every time you drive. Not cheap - but you asked for power with out a new engine.

Good tip Don. VW uses the same flex connector on the TDI engine. Sure helps with the 4 cylinder diesel engine!

1200 lumens is not real bright. 2 of them are 2400 lumens. Just checked the box for my Costco 2 lamp LED fixtures - 3700 lumens - on sale this month for @$29.95 Also have some dual T8 lamp fixtures I got from Lowes for like $17.00 - But had to buy the T8 lamps. Each T8 lamp puts out 2550 lumens, total 5100 lumens The brighest and also most expensive.

Check with Automan2164. He is quite familiar with the stock diesel MJ. On the VW, the glow plug fuse was on the fire wall in the engine compartment. I don''t have the MJ diesel manual, so can not help more. Another thought, to check for fuel flow to the injectors - crack the fuel line loose at one of the injectors. Then turn the engine over. You should see fuel leaking from the cracked injector connection if the pump is sending fuel to the injectors.