johnj92131

I would love to have them as spares for my truck. Let me know and will be happy to pay shipping. Thanks, P.S. My truck has the factory metric ton package.

Factory Big Ton/Metric Ton package on my 91. Previous owner hauled dry wall in it and added 2 overload leafs on each side. I have personally put a pallet with just over 3200 lbs of blocks (60 54lb blocks plus a wood pallet) in the back of the truck and drove it home up a 400 ft vertical climb. Load did not bottom out and the truck was just fine. But I kept the next 5 pallets of blocks to about 2800 lbs each. 54 x 54lbs plus the pallet.

I have used diesel fuel, gasoline, paint thinner and a number of other solvents. The issue is evaporation loss and disposal of the residue. Oil Eater is a great product. I have used it for years! It does a great job on my garage floor and driveway also. Have not tried the tractor supply product. I have not seen carbarator cleaner in years. But that used to be a good thing for small parts. As I recall, a 1 gallon can with a parts bucket and a metal lid to hold down evaporation.

A - leave it as is. I like the color you have. Don't really think the other options make the truck look better at all. Just my opinion and worth all that you paid for it!

I have yours made up... And I don't know if I would weld up the hitch with a 110v welder.... Doesn't seem like a good idea. I have yours made up... And I don't know if I would weld up the hitch with a 110v welder.... Doesn't seem like a good idea. Dude, Glad you are learning to weld. Wish I had learned. BUT, you really should learn to weld on something much less critical than a trailer hitch. Believe me, it is no fun when your trailer gets a mind of its own about where it wants to go or if something fails. I would leave the welding to someone who really knows what they are doing on a critical part. The extra $50 is really cheap money for a quality welding job. Not to mention how long it will take a learner to do it right and correct the certain mistakes. Just my take on the matter.

Might want to post part numbers and prices just for the next guy looking to do this. I also would like to know what MMO is. Mineral oil??

Front hitches are still available for the Cherokee/Comanche. I have a Drawtite on the front of my truck. Nice for putting the trailer in a tight spot. Also not bad to haul a small moterscooter/Honda Trail 90. Have also used the front hitch as a pushing point on another car going up the drive way. No risk of bumper damage that way.

The first question I have is there something wrong with the engine in your 89? If nothing is wrong with your 89 - why do you want to swap the head? Because it is an H.O. head and you want the extra 14 horsepower at the top end? If the truck runs fine, I would not waste my time. Too much work for not much results. Now, hang on to the head and manifold for when you come up with another block and a 4.2 crank or spend $400 for a new crank and build a stroker.

Any reason you would do it that way?

Have you looked on the island for Cherokee seats? If you can find some Cherokee seats on the island, you can mix and match the seat frames and brackets from the MJ to make a decent functional set of seats. Then if the color is a problem, just the seat covers could be mailed to Guam at a reasonable price. Cherokee seats use the same foam as the MJ bucket seats. Also Cherokee seats up to and including 1994 will bolt to the Comanche MJ bucket seat brackets. I did the above mix and match to build my near new looking MJ Laredo buckets. Yes it took time and yes there a whole lot more Cherokees in Southern California than in Guam. But if you can find the Cherokee seats you will have a good start without the big freight bill.

Does look good. And you had no issue with the fuel low alarm circuitboard? Know the 87 cluster has a different fuel low board from the 91-96. What I wanted to do was use the 87 tach in the late instrument cluster. The 87 tach starts at 8:00 rather than the 9:00 position. This was so I could match the gauge faces on the 91+ police cluster. My problem is the 87 tach is a different shape than the 91+ tach and that was my interference problem with the 91+ low fuel alarm board. Guess it has been more than 2 years since I last looked at this. BTW, I still want the your big fuel gauge. Send me a p.m. with how much, including shipping to 92020 and your Paypal. What I really need is just the face plate and the screws.

I have installed the 6 gauge cluster in my 91 column shifter, but never got around to installing the shift indicator. After more than a year, It doesn't bother me. Now, if someone else were to try and drive the truck, it could bother them. Hornbrod has the simplest solution to that issue and it totally looks factory. Now, the fuel low indicator board is a problem I kept looking for a solution and never did identify a solution before I just put it on the back burner. You will find the same issue with all the 6 gauge clusters from 91 to 96. I suspect that is exactly why the police clusters on the 91-96 Cherokee is a 5 gauge cluster with the big fuel gauge rather than the full 6 gauge cluster. The solution(s) I thought about, but never got around to was to use a different fuel gauge from a Renix cluster. The low fuel sensor board is in a different location. Or I was going to find a small fuel gauge face without the low fuel light and just run with it. Potential issue there was it not working with the newer fuel tank float. The solution to that problem may be a Renix era fuel float in place of the H.O. float. Lastly, if you could find someone to redesign the low fuel sensor board - that might be the most effective solution. By the way, do not throw away your old big fuel gauge - if nothing else, I will buy it for a spare.

Let me know if you do set up a dyno day. Would like to attend.

The floor seat brackets are Comanche specific. You can use bench or bucket seat brackets. The fold forward seats are from a Cherokee or a Comanche. Same mechanism Here is what I did: Look for 2 or 4 door seats with great seat covers in the color I wanted. Buy them. Next, buy a set of Comanche seat brackets. Then buy a set of fold forward seats with a good frame. The rest of the fold forward seat doesn't matter, it is the good frame you want. Then mix and match to build a great set of buckets. I used something like 4 sets of seats to put together the buckets in my Comanche. Make sure some of your buckets also have good foam - you can use the foam from the passenger side on the driver side.

Great!

Hi MrJrod, For the answer to your question, the first place to look is the factory owner's manual that was in the glove box when the truck was new. From page 101: "Trailer towing With a Class 1 hitch, your vehicle can be equipped to tow trailers with a Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) of 2000 lbs (907 kg). With a Class III Hitch, your vehicle can be equipped to tow trailers with a Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) of 5000 lbs (2268 kg). Vehicles equipped with a rear step bumper are rated for a Class 1 hitch. Other restrictions apply concerning trailer type, trailer frontal area, and tongue weight. Carefully review the Minimum Vehicle Requirements chart in this section." The chart on page 103 says for 5000 lbs up to 64 sq ft front area you need a Class III hitch, max tongue wt. 750 lbs, 6 cylinder engine, auto trans with cooler, power steering, h.d. battery, h.d. cooling, Heavy Duty axel, Trailer sway control and Equalizing hitch are required for tongue weights above 350 lbs. Maximum Combined Vehicle weights are also called out. There are a number of other tips in the owners manual. You can buy them on Ebay. Heavy duty axel = Dana 44. It has wider drum brakes. The Auto trans rear axel ratio is 3.55, not the 3.07 you have. Others may suggest a 3.73 or 4.10 ratio. You may want to look at a rear disk brake conversion also. My 91 Comanche came from the factory "Properly Equipped" to tow 5000 lbs. Not sure I would want use the 25 year old truck as a full time tow vehicle for 5000 lbs. all the time. First, fuel consumption sucks towing. Second, the truck is 25 years old with 260000 miles on it. Third, you are going to have to spend some money, time and effort to bring your Comanche up to as new specs. Lastly, you said you are in a hurry to get everything done so you can hit the road. If I were in that situation, I would buy or lease a new new truck. Clearly, your need the truck and need to tow the trailer for your business. So just buy/lease a new truck and write it off as a business expense. That way you get a properly equipped truck and a new vehicle and none of the issues dealing with the problems that come from a 25 year old truck on the road. Any of the half ton trucks can tow 7000 plus lbs with a 6 cylinder engine.

Jim would have 4 or 5 for that price.

When I truck was stolen and partially stripped, there was a whole bunch of engine compartment wires cut. Wound up having the entire engine harness and some of the interior harness replaced with stuff from an XJ. Parts and labor were close to $400. But that was done in Tijuana - labor rate there is much cheaper than $100/hour in San Diego. Truck was in TJ on loan to a friend and stolen from his home. My friend's brother-in-law is a Tijuana cop - truck was recovered in less than 18 hours. They got one of the 4 men stripping the truck. That fellow got 7 years! Can you believe that?

Salvage title. Who knows what the problem and damage was now after 12 years? Could be fine, could be a bondo mine. Bed looks to be loaded with a lot of weight. No pictures of the inside. $700 worth of wiring? Have to wonder why?

Excellent pictures in this thread. Thanks to all who posted pictures. I am going to bookmark this thread for future questions about hitches and bumpers!

The Krustyhitch is available for something like $180 plus shipping. All the other aftermarket/factory hitches are not available new. Their only source is the used market or salvage yards. In the last 8 years, I have salvaged TWO Comanche hitches. So if you want a used hitch, you are going to have to do a lot of waiting or a whole lot of salvage yard prospecting.

Got my hitch plates in today's mail. Package was damage in the mail. But the hitch plates look GREAT. Nice clean cut 4 nice bolt holes. Lost two spacers in transit. Have 4. As a suggestion. Tape the 2 brackets together and use a smaller box (if the Post office has one). Also tape or wire tie all the spacers together. Add some cardboard to the inside of the box to restrict the the plates movement.

Congratulations to both of you!

What am I missing here? If the JCR bumper is higher and tighter than the stock bumper - the Drawtite bolt on hitch will still bolt to the frame just fine. It just will not bolt to the non factory bumper at the center of the bumper, right?

Not quite. There was also a "tow package" that was not the metric ton package. It included many of the some parts but was also available on a short bed and also gave you a 5,000# tow capacity. I have the Fey bumper. On a Comanche the Fey bumper itself is rated at 350/3,500 using a ball on the bumper. It is in the literature that comes with it and stamped into the bumper itself. That should be adequate for your needs and is fairly cheap from jegs.com and summit racing.com among others. Incommando, Can you point me to the documentation for the "tow package"for the short wheel base truck? Perhaps/likely the H.D. cooling Auto trans, Dana 44 were available on the short wheel base. But the Metric/Big Ton package required the long wheel base truck. My source is the 1991 Comanche user manual that came with the truck and my original window sticker. Other limitations on the 5000 trailer weight limits were the front area of the trailer was limited (from memory, 25 sq ft?) and an equalizing hitch was required for more than 3500 lbs. My comments about the bumper capacity were directly from the Comanche user manual and specifically about the factory bumper. The capacity of the Fey bumper - if that is what they stamp it with - well they know the limits of their bumper. But what about when you bolt it to a Comanche? I would "think" the truck limits for the bumper are the are the ones to use. After all a chain is only as strong as the weakest link. It is also true that two firms can have different views of what the bumper/truck combination limits are. Again, I am just quoting factory limits I am aware of. Lots of people, including me have hauled more than the factory limits. Personally I have put over 3100 lbs in the bed of my truck.