Keyav8r

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There are posts on the MJ Tech forum of different bench seats that have been installed in MJs. One was a Dakota bench with a fold down armrest that may have had cup holders. There are also posts on door mounted cup holders that I believe are available on eBay. For buckets and a console, the best choice will be to find an MJ with them in a junkyard. An alternate is XJ buckets and console. The Xj buckets are not a direct bolt-in as the floor brackets are different. You can either find MJ brackets and adapt the XJ (or other) bucket seats to the MJ brackets or fabricate brackets for use in place of the MJ brackets. Two door XJ buckets are better as they fold forward to allow access to the area behind the seats. There are about a million threads on seats so be prepared to read a lot to find ex aptly what works best for you.

JY. I cut arches out of a MJ to repair my drivers side. Haven't gotten to that part of the work yet, though. Alexia said she thought you might be able to use arch sections from XJs.

This is really two issues. 1. If you want a light bar on your truck and it's legal - do it! It is, after all, your truck. 2. If you are willing to assume the potential liability in pulling someone out of a ditch, hook 'em up!

Ba da rump bump - ching!

New Zealand is looking better every day.

I just increased the total number of voters signed up by approximately 18%. Might as well marry the MJ because the wife may well divorce me over it before I get it finished!

Junkyard item. Autozone, Advanced Auto and Rock Auto sell generic battery clamps. If you find one at the JY, you will probably find it corroded from battery acid. Clean it up well (sandblast or grind to remove old rubber) and coat with liquid rubber compound - sold to coat tool handles. I have a can at home but can't remember the name right now. PM me for the name if you need it.

I'm going to make a pilgrimage to Pueblo and learn from the MJ master.

Voted. Agree with Hornbrod, we should get a cut!

You don't need to know what the torque rating is when you are dis-assembling and there could be a possibility of damaging the torque wrench by exceeding the mechanism's rating. Many times when dis-assembling an engine it is necessary to use a cheater to break loose bolts that have been in place for a long time or that have been loctited. The torque required to break it loose with a cheater could well damage a torque wrench. The torque wrench has bi-directional ability as some fasteners may have left hand threads. The wrench mechanism is designed primarily for right hand threads and therefore is not as accurate when used on left hand threads.

I also checked Autozone, O'Reillys, and Rock Auto for a 88 MJ, 4.0 knock sensor. All three show the same type sensor as AA. It actually uses a stud with a flange that screws into the block and the sensor slides onto the other end and is held in place by a nut. But my 88 has the style shown in the photo?

I have the same sensor on my truck. Couldn't figure out what it was as Advance Auto shows the knock sensor as cylindrical in shape with a bolt through the center to attach it to the block.

A new member asked if I could recommend someone to work on their 88 MJ as they have no mechanical skills. Having only owned mine for about a year and in the process of learning how to work on it, I don't have a clue who to recommend. Anyone in the Birmingham area know of a trustworthy Renix MJ savvy mechanic? Looking for a real mechanic, not a parts swapper. I know HESCO is the big HP stroker king, but this is a stock DD that needs a little TLC.

Heck, yours looks almost pristine compared to the drivers side wheel well arch on mine. I managed to cut those sections out of a MJ bed at P&P and plan to cut and weld to repair (or maybe have a body shop do it, my thin metal welding skills aren't quite up to par yet). As Alexia suggested, check local JYs for MJs or 2 door XJs as donors. Use a saber saw with a short blade.

I remember back in the old days (409/427 Chevys, 440 wedge/426 hemi Dodges & Plymouths, 429 Fords, etc), a lot of the guys would build aluminum "boxes" over the intake and around the carb that would be filled with ice before/between runs to keep them cold. I'm talking muscle car/pre-emissions & MPG legislation days when only rail jobs and Modifieds ran superchargers and turbochargers were only used on diesel semis. So, using ice to cool the intake charge really isn't new.

I heard the original (TV show) Batmobile was up for sale and I believe they were expecting mid-6 figures. Somebody is a happy camper at $4.2 mil.

Preach on, Eagle! If this crap keeps on I may need COFFMAN's sponsorship to emigrate to Oz.

They're probably not worth much. Just to help you get rid of them, I'll pay the freight to AL!

By does not effect the odometer, do you mean the odometer keeps registering miles when the speedometer is not working?

Ftpiercecracker - Do you know where it was scrapped? If NashvilleP&P, I might have to arrange a "bidness" trip up that way!

Should read "Good business ...."

We had the same amount in the Birmingham area. Changed over from rain to snow around 11:30 and by 1:30 the grassy areas were covered by 1-1/2" - 2". Headed home about 2:30 and, of course, there were idiots trying to run 70 MPH on the Interstates. God business for the towing companies!

Oil pressure gauge - one bar = 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure). So, if it normally sits around 3 on the gauge, you have approximately 45 PSI oil pressure. You can Google a metric conversion chart or calculator for pressure, temperature, kph/ mph, etc.

Noticed your comment about oil on the air filter. That's not uncommon for our trucks, more prevalent on the earlier models. There are some threads on the forum for eliminating/minimizing the oil in the filter by servicing and/or modifying the crankcase ventilation system (the two hoses that run from the valve cover to the air filter housing).