Keyav8r

He apparently suffers from MJ envy.

My 88 has the hole all the way through. I was thinking if it could have been an alternate CPS mount on some version of the engine. The harmonic balancer would also have to be different if that were the case.

You can either make or buy longer hold down bolts. If you can't find them long enough at your parts store, buy some all-thread rob and six nuts and washers at the hardware store. The battery box comes out by removing two or three bolts. Measure and cut the rod to the needed length. Anchor the bottom to the battery box with two nuts (one above and one below the hole in the box), re-install the box, battery, hold down clamp and one nut and washer per rod. That concrete stuff coming out from under the rubber is corrosion from the battery acid/gases. I've peeled all the rubber off mine to sandblast and recoat with rubber. Can't remember the name of the product, but it's a liquid rubber used to coat tool handles. If I can remember long enough I'll look at the can and PM to you. OR, since you're on that car crew, maybe you can find some old stainless rod and angle laying around an fab up an all stainless hold-down clamp. While you're doing that make two of them. I'll send you my address.

Cut them off with a dremel or cut-off disc on a grinder. Just did mine to replace hoses. Be careful to just cut through the metal band and a little of the hose so that you don't damage the tubing.

Thanks for all the input. Since old B,S&T will be a 2WD street truck, I'm not greatly concerned about micro-filtration, more about making a little room and a cleaner look. Cold air intake would be nice, but I'd like to keep the cost reasonable so a cowl intake is out. So, I'm thinking a Spectre filter and Rusty's air tube like onlyinajeep has or maybe modify the stock airbox to move it forward and open up the inlet so it could draw more cool air from behind the grill. But, if I can hit a JY find like Wrz, that would work too!

This vehicle insured by Smith & Wesson.

To me it's gratifying to hear of a 16 year old that respects his parents wishes!

That's the place. If yours doesn't have the speaker brackets you'll have to find a pair in the Wanted section or fab some. I believe the rear speakers are 4" x 6".

Definitely a good story and very well written, indeed! Now, where are those photos?

I'm looking at an aftermarket intake air filter system to (a) make room for a dual diaphragm brake booster and (b) clean up the look of the driver's side of the engine bay. I've seen photos of several members' MJs with Airaid and K&N intake systems and am thinking of going in that direction. But I haven't found a listing by either Airaid or K&N on a specific system for an 88 MJ 4.0 L Renix application. If you have either of these systems on your MJ, could you post the part numbers you purchased and tell me about any modifications needed? Did you box it in and enlarge the opening through the radiator support for better cold air intake? Or, just hang it out there in the open and let pull air wherever? Also, is there provision for the fresh air supply to the valve cover and a vacuum connection as on the stock airbox?

Generally, while driving, whatever is on local rock/classic rock/country station. If something comes on I din't care to listen to, I punch scan/search for something else or put in a book on CD. Have to wonder if Buffalob and I are related because I agree that I can listen to almost anything except rap and opera (and NPR - so far left they're off the planet - IMHO). My iPod and iPhone playlist is fairly eclectic, including rock, classic rock, southern rock (yes, it is a separate genre), blues, country (mostly newer bands, not much into the nasal twang thang), soul, spiritual and anything else that caught my ear. Oh yeah, no techno, heavy metal or thrash. Makes my ears and throat hurt just listening to all that screaming/shouting/echo/effects crap.

I haven't taken my fuse panel apart yet, but I understand that there is a recessed bolt in the center of the engine bay side of the fuse panel. If you take that bolt out you should be able to work the engine bay side of the connector back through the hole (apparently it came through there to get where it is now). If no one on the forum can chip in with the size of the bolts that attach the fuse panel (and cab side connector/wiring harness) to the firewall, eyeball the hole size and try the closest size bolt you have for fit. You should be able to estimate the length by measuring the thicknesses the bolt has to pass through. Don't force the threads or you'll strip them. If you don't have any bolts on hand that are close to the size, go to your local Home Depot or Lowes hardware department and pick up a selection of standard (SAE) and metric bolts (could be either) to trial fit. Remember that there are coarse and fine thread pitches in both standard and metric bolts. If they don't have individual bolts in the sizes you need, buy the small plastic packages. Just poke the threaded end of a bolt through the plastic and try it for fit. If it's not the right size, push it back through the hole and you can return it if you don't get the package dirty or rip the hole too large. When you're ready to re-assemble the fuse panel and connector, use your silicone around the edges to seal it up (don't get any of the silicone in the connectors). Then you can either fab up a catch can as Cruiser described or/and just go ahead and replace the clutch master cylinder. I may go to the garage and pull mine apart to see if this is right. On second thought, I won't. Too many other projects going on.

I'm confused so let's go back to your first post. You say your fuse panel is off the firewall. Do you mean that you have removed it from the stock location and relocated it somewhere else? I'm assuming you've done something like that because you say "water enters into that slot where the wires go through". Do you just have the wires coming from the engine bay to the cab passing through the hole in the firewall where the fuse panel was previously located? if so, you're pretty well limited to sealing around the wires with silicone or other sealant. You'll probably still get some water seepage coming in between the wires, even with a big blob of silicone. Maybe I'm still not understanding the situation, but if you did move the fuse panel, where is it now?

mjjeff's canister location is like my 88 4.0. Directly inline with the heater core inlet/outlet.

Not to thread jack or anything, but what did the seats come from? Gonna have to do that black interior thing.

That's the ticket - 12 VDC compressor!

Not 100% positive but I think 87-89. It is a black cylinder, approx. 7"-8" diameter x 10"-12" deep. Mounted on the passenger side near the firewall (roughly in front of the heater and AC connections at the firewall) with the top at about mid-height of the engine. Has a couple of hoses/vacuum lines attached. Having trouble posting photos, but PM your e-mail and I'll send a picture to you tomorrow.

Go to a local JY/P&P and get one with the brackets, hoses, etc. from a Renix XJ.

Second thought is the better of the two. Fuel/air mixture in tires (or any container other than an engine cylinder) is not a good idea.

Swap the doors, avoid the cuts and bruises.

Just be glad none of those guys with the little blue lights were around! But, I definitely know the feeling - Come on DA, get that thing out of my way! Impatient? Who? Me?

Hit the JYs. You're looking for a header panel and I looked at more than 25 of them before I found one without stripped out screw holes. Good luck !

$800.00? Really? You got the deal of the century!

I had the same problem on the transmission mount. All the local stores have a mount with two holes for the transmission, but my BA-10 (which you probably also have unless it has been replaced) has four bolts to the transmission and four studs to the crossmember. The mount also has a "horn" on the passenger side with a rubber mount for the exhaust. Rock Auto shows the correct mount and I believe it was around $79. Mine looks like it has been replaced and I checked it well and re-used it. Driver side motor mount was split in half, though.

You could almost justify the purchase as an investment. Could probably recoup most of what you bought them for in parts sales. Of course, there would some transportation and storage room issues. But, I couldn't afford the purchase price and the resulting divorce settlement so I'll pass.