Keyav8r

He has a second video in which he is thanking Jeep for telling dealers a new Jeep pick-up is in the works. The problem being that his second video is in 2011. Browse around on Youtube a little more and you'll find videos touting the Gladiator concept as the basis for a new Jeep pick-up for 2013, and for 2015, and........ IF they ever build one and it looks something like the concept my Silverado DD is history!

I would shy away from using plastic for the spacer due to the potential for cracking at the pressure points around the four studs. Just my opinion. 1/4" steel plate would work as well as aluminum. Burn the center hole and drill the stud holes, hit it with a disc grinder and you're good to go. Or you could fab a spacer out of 1/4" x 1" flat bar. I have a 96 MC with the spacer on standby for a future swap into the 91.

Just put mine on my 91 but haven't exposed it to much sun since then. It's been a lot like a rain forest in AL for a few weeks!

Welcome to the forum. Where do you live in Germany?

Pete - how's the recovery coming along? Getting back close to normal yet? Fred

iirc is an acronym for "if I remember correctly". Don't forget to get a new silver colored "doughnut" gasket for the manifold/downpipe joint. Also, get the better, silver colored casket for the downpipe/cat flange. I think Fel-Pro makes it. Use "never seize" on the manifold studs with new nuts, preferably stainless steel I just did this, including the manifold, on my 88. Definitely assemble everything from front to back before tightening the manifold bolts or installing the clamps. The downpipe/cat bolts can be tightened as this joint can't be adjusted by turning. the top side of the cat has a heat shield, be sure it's installed with the shield side up. Make sure the tailpipe is lined up with the hangers and not too far forward or back. If you are using a "stock" muffler it will have (iirc) a center inlet and an offset outlet. I can' remember whether the offset outle should be toward the frame rail or toward the drive shaft. Maybe someone else can jump in here and clarify that. If not, I'll look under mine when I get back next and send you a PM. Or, just assemble it one way (without the clamps) and then try iy the other way if it doesn't look/fit right. My truck has a formed clearance in the frame to clear the pipe. If the pipe is not positioned correctly it will hit and rub on the frame. Also, make sure the straight section on the back end of the pipe (the part that sticks out behind the wheel) has a little tilt down toward the end of the pipe so that any exhaust condensation will run out. After everything is in place and properly lined up, tighten the manifold bolts and clamps, then go back and re-check everything.

You should be able to get one at a JY. I think XJ boxes will work but someone jump in if I'm wrong.

Did Lucas (known in Britain as the House of Darkness) supply lighting and wiring harnesses for MJs?

Horses? We don't need no steenking horses. We got MJs!

Should be able to get all of that new from NAPA, Advance, Auto Zone, Rock Auto, etc. Or, just go to a Pull-A-Part and strip what you need off an XJ with a D35. You will probably need brake hardware kits also. Pay a little more for the brand name.

Depending on where you bought the parts, there's a possibility you may have to shorten the tailpipe at the muffler in order to get the hangers to line up. I hope you got new rubber isolators/hangers as the old ones on my truck had to be cut off. New ones make the system assembly easier. If necessary, you can get a tailpipe expander from the parts store (Advance Auto, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, etc - free rental but you put up a deposit) to expand the pipe end and make a joint if you have to cut the pipe.

My '05 Silverado has a closed loop cooling system, as did my '01 Sierra, as does my wife's '12 Mazda6. Never had a cooling problem with any of them. Replaced a water pump in each, but that's a normal wear item when you put 200,000 miles on a vehicle.

Amazon.com - they had almost every kind when I was looking for some.

To me That looks more like a spacer than a wheel.

And chrome shops, because of EPA regs, are becoming few and far between!

Always good to be south of the Mason-Dixon line! Good luck on the surgery. Hope it goes well and recovery is short.

Seemed to take a long time to load. Maybe just my internet connection. Pete - I think the shopping cart sign over the Prius is a nice touch, bringing forth the hidden grocery shopper in all of us!

Oil Pan Bolt Pattern - this is a view of the top flange of the oil pan. When you are under the truck, the sides will be reversed. Based on a sketch by Cruiser54 and time putting a RMS and oil pan gasket on my 88.

I'll give it a try.

Thanks a lot, guys! Something else I didn't know I had to have. Gotta get them now that I've been shown the difference in how much the the fronts stick out more than the rears. Never really noticed it before but now it's just glaring at me. Just Empty Every Pocket

Here's the photo without the link. I'll figure this picture posting thing out eventually. This photo is based on a sketch fromCruiser54 and time spent under the truck.

This is a diagram of the size, type and location of the oil pan fasteners for the 4.0L six. Remember that the photo is of the top of the oil pan flange. When you are lying under the truck the sides will be reversed. http://i.imgur.com/pXj2PvI.png

Hat's off, Jim. Buy a clunker and make close to $450 on it in one day! You should have a reality TV show, call it "Flippin' Cars".

On the 88: finished cleaning all the interior plastic, re-installed the windshield washer bottle and the air cleaner box, hooked up all the vacuum lines (correctly, I hope), put the front wheels on and got it off the jackstands, put a new old battery box in and installed the battery, hooked up the positive side, left grounds off for now, installed header panel, removed header trim for painting (along with grille, headlight bezels and side marker trim), primed floor repairs, and started prep for re-covering headliner. On the 91: removed the battery box, found corrosion underneath, cleaned off flaky rust, POR-15 next.