Keyav8r

mvusse - My reference was to the seal for the sending unit, which Team Cherokee lists for Comanches. jrwhite - go to tristarradiator.com, guy's name is Dan OHora. They rebuild sending units. And/or check out Akula69's post on rebuilding sending units.

Thanks, guys. Didn't know if the air in the line needed to be vented off or if it would just feed through the injectors, and darn sure didn't want to chance having to pull the tank again and replace a pump.

Dropped the gas tank on my '91 Eliminator to replace the tank vents and hoses. Checked the sending unit while I had the tank out and HOORAY it is good. Had to clean the connector contacts to get a reading with the ohmmeter so I'm hoping that will cure my non-functional gauge issue. (I don't get an accurate level reading but do get the low fuel light when it's near empty) My question: Is there any specific method of re-starting the engine to get the air out of the fuel lines? Will the injectors pass the air through while cranking the engine over normally? Or should I bleed the air off at the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail while cranking? I have a hose with the correct fitting to open the valve and could bleed the air and fuel into a can or plastic bottle, if that is necessary.

Team Cherokee - search for XJ tank vents. That's where I got mine. Put them in today but haven't filled the tank yet to see if that cured the problem. Stains on the top of tank showed me they were leaking. Filler and vent hoses and the supply and return hoses were okay but I replaced the supply hose and the hoses for the vents. One of them was pinched shut, I guess from when the PO had the tank replaced. Looked like they re-used the vents and grommets.

You're confusing flow with pressure. The fuel flow from the pump is fairly constant at any engine speed as it is driven by a fixed speed electric motor. Pressure is created when the flow is blocked or partially blocked. That is the purpose of the fuel pressure regulator. It maintains a fairly constant pressure on the fuel rail by controlling how much fuel goes back to the tank through the return line. At idle the regulator is more open and there is a higher fuel flow back to the tank, lower fuel flow to the injectors. As RPM increases and more fuel is demanded by the injectors, the valve closes and allows less fuel flow back to the tank. The regulator balances the fuel flow between the injectors and the return line to maintain fuel rail pressure.

I've heard that the title is often the last thing heard on cockpit voice recorders.

That could get nasty again when he pulls it back down. Hope he's got several friends with good winches.

Team Cherokee, about $3 plus shipping. May be able to get one from NAPA, etc.

I don't think you have to remove the oil pan to install the flinger, just the timing chain cover. I would first pull the vibration dampener pulley and remove the oil seal to see if the flinger is in there or not. If it is there, put in a new oil seal, replace the pulley and you're good to go. If you can't see it, pull the timing chain cover, put the flinger on and re-install the cover with a new timing clover gasket set (you can probably re-use the old one). Did the reman engine come with a new dampener pulley? If not, I would buy and install a new one while you have the engine apart.

High five, Akula!

Dang, I should have thought of that on the three (yep, only three) MJs I've seen in JYs around here over past 2years

What does the pressure read at higher RPM? Ditto what Jim said. Could be the sending unit, or the gauge, or it could be worn bearing clearances and/or a weak oil pump.

Dropped the tank tonight and sure enough, the tank vents were so loose you could spin them around with a finger tip. They came out of the tank with a light pull. Fuel stains all over the top of the tank from gas sloshing out when the tank was full or near full and continuos fume release until the tank was near empty. Looks like whoever replaced the tank re-used the old vents and hoses. One of them appears to be blocked (nit sure if it's the hose or the vent. Tank itself looks hear new. I'll replace the fuel hoses from the pump to the steel lines, the short section on the fuel filter and the vacuum hoses for the vents w henI re-install the tank. Filler and vent hoses inspect alright so I'll re-use them (no longer available. I was pretty sure this was the problem and it's good to get one right for a change!

Good job, Dad(TMW)! We all like to make our daughters happy and when it involves doing something for them and together with them it's even better. Alex - enjoy the car but more important enjoy the time with your dad.

Thanks, Akula69 & ParadiseMJ. Don, they appear to be OK but the filler hose had a little twist or kink in it as it was installed. I'm fairly sure the problem is the tank vents (waiting for USPS to deliver them), but I thought I might replace the filler and vent hoses while I had the tank out. It will also give me an opportunity to check the sender unit. I'll replace the short rubber sections on the supply and return lines as well as the hoses for the vents. Then I'll double check the vacuum line to the vapor canister. Have a few more little projects on it (replace the cruise control servo, make bows for the bed cover, etc.). It's a Comanche. There will always be something to occupy my time and take my money! But, I'm really glad I have it.

B+, would have been an A with a little more narrative.

Thanks. I'll get the tank off today or next Saturday and measure the hoses. Were you able to order them from Summit by the Goodyear PN?

PN 52001595, filler and vent hose for '91 MJ (and probably other years) is discontinued. Has anyone replaced their gas tank hoses with another Jeep PN or some other formed hose(s)?

They are metric. 13mm, if I remember correctly.

This one's easy. Don't do doughnuts and it won't stall. The centrifugal force turn may be pushing fuel away from the pump. Does it happen with a full tank?

danbyrambler - I assume you were speaking of Alabama in general and not any specific location or person, right?

First thing she needs to do is get a new bf who knows something about auto repair.

Did you bleed the air off the rail? You can use an air conditioning hose fitting on the Schraeder valve on the rail. Have a container ready to collect any fuel that comes out. I bought an adapter fitting to go from the female thread Schraeder hose fitting to 1/4" pipe threads to connect a pressure gauge and test the fuel pump pressure. You'll need a good quality gauge that reads at least 60 PSI as you want the somewhere near mid-range on the gauge scale. Gauges are more accurate at mid-range than near either end of the range. You can find the fitting at most large HVAC supply distributors. I got mine at Johnstone Supply.

Thanks to RochesterMJ for the parts drawing and to Don for confirming the hose no. I had found the XK PN on Team Cherokee but had a feeling it wasn't right for the MJ.

Can't find my manual CD (cleverly put it somewhere I could find it). Can anyone tell me if 52000623 is the correct PN for the gas tank filler and vent hose for a '91 MJ?