Keyav8r

Just watched a video message from George W about our veterans and those serving now. You, and those who have gone before you, are the reason we have this choice country, the best nation on this earth. I thank you and honor you for your service. May God richly bless your lives.

Prayers are needed for that family and I will be praying for them.

Prime, seam seal and paint the underside also. Allow time to dry/cure between steps.

Don, do you have any of them left? I'm trying to decide if chrome or black taillight trim would look better on the Eliminator. Kinda leaning toward black as the rear bumper is black. But, I've got a little chrome freak DNA too. RTR! L S Who?

Jim - I don't want to know where you found that first image. However, I found that if I scrolled the screen just right I could block the first and better appreciate the artistry of the second image.

Can't argue with that, Rob! The history of the auto industry is to innovate when cars are selling well and to cut research and product development when sales slump. I agree with you re Marchionne also. He seems to have a special talent in making companies improve how and what they do. If they were to release the Gladiator I would have to seriously reconsider my vow to never buy another new truck.

Don't have access to my manuals now. Found the following parts on Team Cherokee. Fuel Filler and Vent Hose Kit PN 52000623 - listed for Cherokees, not sure if they will work on a 91 MJ. Anybody have the MJ PN or know if these will fit? Fuel Pump and Sender O-ring PN 53000575 - listed for MJ and XJ Vent (Rollover) Valve PN J5360058 - listed for MJ and XJ (2 required) Grommet for above valve PN 52018823 - listed for MJ and XJ (2 required) Push Nut Set (4) PN 3420214 -listed for various applications on XJ - possibly correct for the push nut on the fuel pump/sender plate? The fuel pump and return hose, the vent hoses and the vacuum tee should be available from NAPA, etc.

Amen on the Fel-Pro rubber gasket!

Crawled under the truck this AM and checked fuel filter lines (OK, no leak), fuel pump/sending unit gasket (OK, no signs of leakage). Started truck (with wheel chocked and parking brake on), still no sign of leakage. Took off the plastic tank cover/skid plate thingy and found some greasy residue from rear pinion leakage (PO had the seal replaced before I bought the truck). Checked the filler and vent hoses by looking between the unibody rail and the fender and by removing the filler neck. No sign of leakage but they look like they were not replaced when the tank was Looked closer at the tank (obviously new replacement) and saw stains running down the upper part of the front and inboard sides of the tank. Also saw some moisture between the rear tank strap and the tank. Supported the tank and removed the strap and sure enough a greasy residue but with a gasoline smell. Lines to the rollover valves are in place and apparently intact, but look like they weren't replaced when the tank was. Didn't want to pull on them too hard and make the situation worse. Conclusion - leakage from the top of the tank, probably from a rollover valve and/or the hose attached to it. So I will be dropping the tank next weekend to check the valves and lines and to replace the filler and vent hoses. Probably pull the pump and sender unit while I have the tank out to see if the sender works. Don't know if I have any options if it doesn't work, but it would be nice to know if it is or isn't good. While I had the filler neck off I was able to siphon out about six gallons. Have driven the truck about 140 miles since the fill up so I should be down to 5 or 6 gallons in the tank. I'll drive it a little more during the week to get the fuel level as far as I can to make pulling the tank easier and safer. Thanks for the info. That's what I really like about the forum. There's usually someone who's been there, down that and is willing to provide the "how to" and the "watch out for" info.

91 Eliminator, 4.0, AX-15, 4x4, SWB - PO had the gas tank replaced due to rust. When I fill the tank there is a strong gasoline smell that gradually goes away as the tank level is burned down. Noticed it on the previous fill up but seems worse this time. Bad enough that I've parked the truck outside for the last few nights. I'll be under the truck today, so what should I be looking for? Vent line to the vapor canister? Leak around filler neck? Gas gauge is inop so I have to fill up at around 200 miles to avoid running out of gas. Could probably go a little further between fill ups as it took 13 gallons after 230 miles on the last tank. Will be looking at the gas gauge issue today also. Alright, MJ gurus, tell me what else I should be looking for to cure this problem.

I'm assuming that was a rhetorical question, Jim.

Check ALL the fuses in your fuse box. Check all of the bulbs in both taillights to make sure they are the correct bulbs as called for in your owner's manual. If you don't have an owner's manual, tell us what year model your truck is and someone will give you the bulb numbers (they may be the same for all years, but I'm not positive about that). Take the taillight connector apart and check it for corrosion and dirt. Clean both sides of each connection to shiny metal and reconnect the connector using dielectric grease. Check the ground behind the left, driver's side, taillight. You can do this while you have the taillight off checking the bulbs. Remove the screw, clean the lug on the end of the ground wire and the area around the screw hole to shiny metal, then put it back together with dielectric grease. Few of us are electricians or professional mechanics. Your choices are to learn to do most of the repairs of all types yourself or pay someone to do it for you. That can get really expensive really fast. You've got the most extensive MJ repair resource right here on the forum, so use it and take advantage of all the experience of other members. Some of the available information is from the collective information database of the members and some is from practical, hands on, work by individual members. The forum has been an invaluable asset for me in the work I've done on the '88 Pioneer and my future plans for the'91 Eliminator. And I'll take this opportunity to again say thanks to the "MJ gurus" on the forum.

Actually, on a flex beam torque wrench the "needle" doesn't move unless the fastener is turning, in which case the whole wrench is moving. The flex beam (handle) deflects more as the torque required to turn the fastener increases, thereby moving the scale that the unflexed needle registers against. Just another technical point to argue about. Foot-pounds of torque is a measurement of force exerted. You could argue that exerted force is a form of power or argue that torque and HP are entirely separate and un-related (they are related), but none of this directly addresses the OP's question (as I understand his question). I believe he is asking how it is physically/mechanically accomplished.

Just goes to show that it's easy to make insane HP. All it takes is the forced injection of massive amounts of money.

To clarify the terminology: Torque is generally measured in foot-pounds and is defined as the twisting force acting perpendicularly about a pivot at a distance of one foot to lift one pound or, conversely, the force exerted by a one pound weight at the end of a one foot horizontal lever. Horsepower is measured by a dynamometer that measures the twisting force (torque) applied by the engine crankshaft to a load. (Simplified description) Horsepower is equal to torque times RPM divided by 5,252. As far as how they do that (get insane HP out of small four holers) - beats me.

The red one would be worth $500 for the rollbar (if it's OEM Jeep), the 10 hole wheels and parts. But, that's a little far to drive for me.

MJ under 100K miles, plus metric ton, plus no evident body damage or rust - would go easily for $2000 or more around here.

My '88 has a BA10 and has 190,000 plus on it (no speedo cable on it when I got it). Didn't shift very well until I drained and re-filled the transmission. Very little fluid came out when I drained it. Now shifts almost as well as the AX15 in my '91. Drive it until it breaks and then change it.

Thanks, Don and onlyinajeep726. I think "measure" is probably the only word I didn't use in my search, even though I used it in my post - Duh! I notice Eagle's post has different measurements for 2WD and 4WD and the rear measurements are a larger. I'll try to remember to check the stickies first in the future.

Only Jim. Nobody, repeat, nobody else has that luck. Or gift. Or whatever. $400! Really?

Take photos of the linkages and vacuum lines on the heater box before you pull anything off. Photo and mark with masking tape and a sharpie all electrical connections for ease of re-connection. Drop screws/bolts/nuts for each location in an envelope or baggie and label it with the sharpie - or screw them back into the holes they came out of (be sure to remove them before you try to put it all back together - don't ask why I think this note is necessary). In short, take photos of everything on your phone or tablet.

Searched but couldn't find information on stock ride height or how to measure it. I've seen it in the past but can't find it now. Is there a way to mark or pin posts/threads to my account to make them easier to locate?

Have one boxed ready to ship. Pm your e-mail and zip code and I will send photo and cost shipped.

That's what I did a poor job of clarifying - which is the distribution block and which is the proportioning valve. Both of my trucks still have the rear proportioning valves and I plan to keep them. I installed the speed bleeders and they are a great help for a one man bleeding job. Just make sure the end of the bleed tube is submerged in fluid - just in case the speed bleeder malfunctions. I've gone around the 88 twice and have good brakes but not great brakes so I will do the FSM bleed procedure after I get all of the other issues resolved. Reference cracking the lines at the distribution block to get the last of the air out, I just repeated what Akula69 said and it apparently worked for him. My policy about advice from the forum is to read everything I can find on an issue and generally go with the consensus. If that doesn't work, I may follow a few of the rabbit trails and then test for safe function before taking the truck to the road. There are guys on the forum who have obviously been around the block a few more times than I, so I usually give their advice more weight than others. Operative word is usually. Sometimes I can convince myself I've found the silver bullet, but it most often turns out to be a thin coat of paint over the brass.

I'm pretty sure the torque table is in the pdf 88 FSM as that's where I found it. Just had to scroll through the dis-assembly/ assembly section (I think that's where I found it).