Keyav8r

Does anyone know if that OEM P.N. is just for '86 2.8L V-6 with 23.5 gallon tank or will it fit other years/engines/tanks?

"This is because the more teeth, the bigger the gear and vice a versa as you can see that below with the green one having 39 and the black one 32 teeth. So that they all still mesh with the drive gear inside, the gear sits off centre in the housing and rotating it moves the Speedo gear ( driven gear ) closer or further away." The centerline of the gear shaft is offset in the housing, so turning the housing in one direction brings the centerline of the gear (and therefore the teeth on the gear) closer to the gear it meshes with in the transmission, and turning it the other way moves it farther away. For a larger gear (more teeth), you have to turn the housing so that the gear centerline is farther from the transmission gear and for a smaller gear, you turn it the other way. Think of the gear shaft as a connecting rod journal on a crankshaft and the housing as a main journal. As the crankshaft rotates, the rod journal moves in an arc around the main journal. In the same manner, as the housing is rotated, the gear shaft moves in an arc bringing the gear closer to or farther from meshing with the gear in the transmission. Does that help any or did I muddy the water up a little more?

He is risen and we are all blessed.

IMHO - round. Side by side photo says it all.

Neohic - I wouldn't bet on it! Dang, Jim! No wonder you live way out from town. You need the room for your Jeep herd.

Blind guy walks into a bar and orders a drink from the female bartender. Then he says "hey, you want to hear a good blonde joke?" The bartender says "Since you're blind you don't know that you're in a lesbian bar. In addition to being a bartender, I'm a weightlifter and I'm blonde. The woman on your left is a professional wrestler and she's blonde. The woman on your right is a karate instructor and she's blonde. Now, do you still want to tell that joke?" The blind guy says "No way! I'd have to explain it three times."

There'll probably be a chrome one on there tomorrow.

I knew there was a reason! Thanks, Jim. Now when they tell me I'm getting fat I'll just tell them I'm gaining knowledge.

Absolutely not trying to be a smart a$$, but since Eagle has been there, done that and your mechanic friend hasn't, i believe I would go with Eagle. And, since Skidoo_j has linked to a "how to" diagram and photo of the way to do it maybe your buddy can see how it will work. If I decide to eliminate my rear proportioning valve (and I may just because I hate bleeding brakes), that's the way I'll go.

Crist Clapper -in your photo the pad is a little out of position. Looking at Hornbrod's photo, you can see that the underhood bracing has an indent in the area of the pad cutout. I'll have to agree it's probably cutout for clearance on hoses or ? BTW - the rod is on the right on my 88.

Holy cow! There are MJs with hood insulation and painted engine bays? I thought all of them were grease colored (LOL). Neat installation!

The sensor may not be bad. Put a thermometer in the pan and see at what temperature the contacts close. I'm sure someone on here knows at what temp the electric fan is supposed to turn on and you check your sensor against that. You can pick up a cooking thermometer at WalMart or most grocery stores. Or, just let the truck get a little hotter and see if it kicks on. I think the standard thermostat is 195F. It's a closed, pressurized system so the coolant won't boil until you get well above 212F and you should be safe letting it get a little hotter. The accuracy of the temp gauge is also an unknown factor.

Sounds more than fair to me. I may take you up on the headliner group buy even though i've already bought the cloth kit to recover mine (the panel is not in what you'd call real good condition). It's good to see a supplier in this field who stands behind his product. Too many just throw something out there and fade away at the first problem.

A freaking butter knife is a tool. However there are brake adjusting tools that work better for the purpose. Check auto parts stores or Harbor Freight.

Geonovast - Getting that EGR pipe loose at the exhaust manifold was a bear. PB Blaster, Pipe wrench and 18" cheater finally got it done. I think my shoulder will eventually go back in place. I'm going to try to just finish unbolting the intake and move it over with the lines still connected. That should give me enough room to clean everything up and replace the exhaust manifold. cruiser54 - I already had the airbox off to make room when I replaced the timing chain and sprockets. I took the master cylinder and booster off to make more room to work on the manifolds. I've got a '96 booster and MC I was planning to install at some point, so might as well do it too while she's up on the stands.

The eBay one looks like the one I got from the dealer and it costs less. Not positive it's the same as the OEM part I got, but cpatim and JeepComanche89 have used it and it works. So that gives you about $18 to spend on the next part you WILL need. Just Empty Every Pocket.

Any time you're hit by someone, have the police call the paramedics and go to the emergency room. Get checked over really well and get on record any thing you're feeling or think you may feel. Having the ER visit on record makes the adjusters be a little more friendly. I didn't follow this advice when a kid rear-ended me on I-65 and totaled my GMC. Adjuster tried to play it all down due to the mileage on the truck (used it for business so the miles piled up quickly but the truck was in great shape). Bottom line, if it ain't your fault, you shouldn't suffer any loss.

I think I read somewhere that it is possible to pull the exhaust manifold without removing the intake manifold. Well, it may be possible for someone but not for me. Got all the bolts and studs out and got the manifold wiggling around a lot, but not enough clearance to get it out. That being said, I will be removing the intake to get the exhaust off (will also make it easier to re-install and as someone said it will give me a chance to clean the gasket surfaces better). First step - buy or borrow the tool for dis-connecting the fuel lines. Second step - figure out how to dis-connect the throttle body linkage. Does anyone have any tips/how-tos/ photos on that? If not, i can un-bolt the throttle body and the throttle cable/linkage bracket and lay it all to the side. Speak up, O Great MJ Gurus! Share with this unworthy one your secrets.

Welcome - good lookin MJ ya got there!

Don - photo, sketch, plans on your bushing press? Is it patented yet?

That whole "it's always something else" thing is the reason I re-named mine Blood, Sweat & Tears (should have added &Money)!

The voices told me to hit the button several times.

I was thinking more of the grape stains as in the old "I Love Lucy" episode. Showing my age again.

I thought maybe it was just me, but i see others are having multiple posts on the same topic. Admins-What are doing wrong?

I'm keeping all my vacuum lines for now and replacing some with new tubing. Ditched the tube from the manifold to the air box because it was rotten. Don't plant to replace so I removed the flapper valve in the nose of the air box.