Keyav8r

You can probably borrow compression and vacuum testers from local auto parts stores. Advance Auto and Autozone offer free loaner tools in our area. They charge it to your credit card as a deposit and then credit it back when you return it. GOOD LOOKING TRUCK!!

Thanks for the feedback. Probably won't take that much longer to just pull everything off and will provide more working room to clean the gasket surfaces and studs/bolts, etc. I think my manual has the torques for the studs and I believe I remember seeing different values for the outer studs. Did you use Neversieze on the studs/bolts?

Listen to Eagle! He speaks the truth. I had always been told that once you got past a certain age it was all downhill. They just didn't tell me it was an 89 degree slope with no brakes.

I'm installing a new exhaust system on my MJ including a new exhaust manifold, pipes, cat and muffler, all stock. Can this be done without disconnecting fuel line to the intake, the vacuum hoses and the throttle linkage? I'm thinking I may be able to slide the intake back a little, support it from above (couple of 2x4s across the fenders and some straps or rope) while removing/replacing the exhaust, and then slide it back in place and bolt on the manifolds with a new gasket. What's the best way to do this?

After you clean all that rust off you can either POR it or put a coat of Rustoleum primer on it and then coat it with body sealer. Either method should cure the leak. Most forum members will probably recommend the POR method.

Check AsheMJ in the for sale section, posted set of stock leafs today.

Great score! Now, if I can find his counterpart in AL I'll be happy, too. Did that sound too envious?

Thanks, all. I found the Fel-Pro part numbers for both items at Advance Auto. Geonovast - thanks for the zip tie tip. I was curious how you could keep it in place long enough to bolt it up. Cruiser54 - I'm going to print out all those tips and put them in my MJ notebook. Then, one day when I get all the parts back on the truck I can use them!

Does anyone have part nos. for the RMS with the double lip and for the one piece oil pan gasket. I' m almost ready to replace the RMS and have the oil pan off and cleaned up, just need to scrape the bottom of the block to get the rest of 2 pounds of gasket sealer the PO used when he replaced the gasket. I definitely want to use the double lip seal as my truck has 200 K miles on it (at least, speedo cable was missing when I got it). I've heard good and bad reports on the one piece oil pan gasket (more good than bad). If you have used it, please let me know what your experience was. Does it seal up better? How hard/easy is it to install? Etc. I have plenty of room to get the pan back on, even with the oil pump installed, so clearance and bumping it out of place shouldn't be a problem.

We put a Sears softener in a year after we built our home 18 years ago (first time i had ever soldered copper piping and not a single leak, which just means it ain't that hard to do). Local water comes from wells and an abandoned quarry, so it has a lot of calcium. I've cleaned the softener once and replaced the resin. The only maintenance issue is that every time the power blinks, it loses its programming and I have to reset it. My wife can tell when it's out of salt by the way her hair feels after washing it. Still have the original gas water heater and the fixtures in the guest bath room (kitchen and master bath fixtures replaced during remodeling) with no evidence of damage, discoloration, etc. I agree with Akula69 that you will need to have your water tested independently. Either county agent or county/ state health department can do it. That will tell you what's in your water which will tell you what type of system you need and what the regeneration cycle should be. Also, when you install it, or have it installed, be sure to include a three valve bypass system to isolate the system so that you can service it when/ if needed. Mine has a lit tale plastic bypass at the softener, but I built one into the piping in case that plastic piece breaks.

Congratulations! Sounds like the only downside may be limited time for your MJ. But, one of the upsides is more MJ fund availability!

I bought a NOS header for my 88 at Jackson & Sons Jeep in Talladega, AL. Just Google the name and the phone number will show. IIRC, it was around $125. Don't know where you're located but he might ship to you.

MJ brackets occasionally come up for sale in the Classifieds section. relyt120 just scored a set a few days ago. The other option is to fabricate brackets to adapt XJ seats. I finally got mine right on the third "minor adjustment". Not to say I wouldn't grab a set of MJ seats and brackets if they ever turn up at P&P.

Don't know about the science working but one of my customers was running one on his Ranger pickup and claimed 2-3mpg improvement. He drove the same route to/from work each day and kept records over several months pre and post installation.

Less than he wants for it. Unless that actually is the MJ of the Lost Ark!

If you're looking for votes - I vote for the full length console. IMHO, it looks better/more MJish. However, your vote is the one that counts. But, those seats are killer. Where did you get them? Noted the wood grain dash bezel. I found one of those at P&P and it's going in my MJ when I get it back together.

Jackson & Sons Jeep - Talladega, AL NOS parts, reasonably priced. Google him and call. Don't know if he has an e-mail address listed. I usually just go by there when I'm making sales calls in the area.

Dang it! I was looking forward to that build thread.

Sounds like if they got 'em, they ain't parting with 'em!

Hopes dashed once again!

Ditto! Don't tell me it's photoshopped. Is that a German tag?

What muffler do you have? I'm getting ready to replace my whole exhaust system (including manifold) and trying to decide on the muffler.

Thanks - that sounds vaguely familiar. I'll give it a shot.

'88 MJ, 2WD, 4.0L - I'm planning to change the RMS when I replace the exhaust manifold and exhaust system. That will be one more thing out of the way of removing the oil pan. Before the site upgrade I saw a post that said something about supporting on the "frame" and unbolting something that will allow the front axle to drop and give more clearance to get the pan off. Can't find the post now and plan to do it this weekend. Can someone point me to the post or provide some guidance? I'll replace/rebuild the oil pump in the process and then replace the timing sprockets, chain, harmonic balancer and oil seal while I'm in the grease monkey mode. Anyone have the PN for the one piece Fel-Pro pan gasket handy? Is that a good thing or should I go with the standard gasket set I already have? EDIT - I put jack stands under frame, let the axle droop, disconnected track bar at pitman arm and let it drop. The pan came off without even removing the oil pump. Well, it did take a few whacks with a 2X6 and an eight pound sledge to break it loose, but it came out easily once it was loose. Still need part numbers on the double lip rear seal and the one piece pan gasket.

Where did you get it? NAPA? Might as well replace mine while I'm bolting almost everything else!