Keyav8r
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Everything posted by Keyav8r
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Skidooj - after pulling my dash and looking at the HVAC module I don't see how you could get it out otherwise. Doesn't look like there would be enough room to pull the assembly back far enough to get the studs out of the firewall and then slide it out under the dash. You've also got the connections for the heater core that project through the firewall and, in my case, the evaporator connections.
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Took another look at the radiator. There is what looks like a bung with a socket head plastic plug just above the lower hose bung. It appears to be the correct size for the temp switch. I believe the temp switch itself is OEM because it has the correct connector. I'm going to GENTLY try to remove the plug and, if successful, put the switch back where it belongs. If the. Plug doesn't come out easily, I'll leave things as they are - don't want to buy another radiator right now. The other thing I'm considering is adding a fill fitting in the upper hose as Pete did on his MJ. Keep the closed system. Just make it easier to fill and burp.
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Thanks, again. One thing I didn't mention and haven't seen on the forum - the fan thermostat/switch is in a fitting in the lower radiator hose, not in the radiator itself. The fitting has hose connections on both ends, about 3" long, and a boss in the middle to accept the thermostat/ switch. It looks like about an inch was cut out of the hose and the fitting inserted and clamped with screw type hose clamps. I'm assuming the radiator was not '88 MJ specific.
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Backdraft - Thanks for the assistance! That's what really like about this forum. There's always someone who knows whatever is needed. I remember seeing about three of the five studs you listed - the two behind the engine and one of the two under the heater lines. I've got the heater hoses off already. The AC isn't working so pulling the evaporator lines won't be a problem. I may get the evaporator checked for leaks before I re- install it. May as well disconnect the condenser and get it checked, too. Again, many thanks for the info.
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Well, I went into the garage today to bleed the brakes and paint the interior of the cab. But, when I looked into the cab I found a puddle of antifreeze in the passenger side floor. Gotta be heater core leaking. I had bought radiator and heater hoses to be changed sometime in the future, but it looks like the future is here. I pulled all the hoses off (made phortos as I went), and pulled the radiator. Surprise - it looks like the PO or the PO once removed replaced the radiator at some point with a double core plastic tank radiator that is in really good shape. And, the PO actually did change the water pump as he said he did. Also found the rubber just starting to poke out on the crank pulley/vibration dampener. Another project for sooner than I planned - like right now. Guess I'll go ahead and install the new timing gears, chain, seal and gasket while I have the radiator out. I have pulled the dash out but can't see how to get to the heater core. Has anyone done a thread on changing a heater core? If so, could someone kindly point me to it? I tried searching for "changing heater core", "heater core replacement", etc. but couldn't find a detailed thread. I sort of remember reading something about some bolts on the firewall, but I don't want ot start randomly un-bolting things assuming that I will eventually find the majic bolt. Being one of them dumb ole Southern boys, I work better with pictures. Anybody got a lead on this?
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As soon as I get my '88 MJ roadworthy I plan to get my granddaughter, a 16 year old new driver, behind the wheel and teach her how to drive a manual. Both of my daughters can drive a vehicle with a clutch and I see no reason my granddaughter should not have the skill also. The world may be going auto but there will always be a few of us old dinosaurs stirring those gears by hand.
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Jimoshel - I'm glad to hear I'm not the only old fart on here doing frustrating crap to himself.
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Welcome to CC! If you have basic mechanical ability you can handle rebuilding your Comanche. You can find all the MJ (Comanche) specific information here on the forums by searching. In the event you can't find it, there are a number of MJ gurus who can point you in the right direction.
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Fuel Line; Rubber Pressure Line
Keyav8r replied to JENSSEN's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
JENSSEN - if your'e going to use those Canadian technical terms you will have to add footnotes for us ignorant Southern boys. -
If you plan to cut them out with a rechargeable sawzall, take about six fully charged batteries with you and that may be enough. It took two batteries to cut out the rear fender wheel well areas (above and behind the flares). Also, get the shortest, stiffest blades you can find and take a bunch of them. And, don't buy the cheap ones, they don't last. The long blades tend to flex and bend - don't ask how I know that.
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Welcome aboard! You'll enjoy being a MJ owner and a club member/ forum user.
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Headliner Question Regarding The Foam
Keyav8r replied to tonemj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I've pulled my headliner out to recover and found a crack across the center (not quite all the way through or across the backing) and the edges pretty well crumbled. The PO had stapled the old fabric to the fiberboard, which didn't help its condition. One of the forum members suggested coating the whole board with resin and re-building the edges with fiberglass and I think I'm going that way. I bought the headliner material from Steve, a member of the forum (SMS Headliners ?, he's on eBay) and I believe he is now also selling the headliner boards. -
Yep, definitely had that burning sensation as I left. Same dealership quoted $50 for the shifter boot that bolts to the floor. May just find an inner tube and make one!
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Part Number Needed Please
Keyav8r replied to Blue88Comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Followed by a bunch of dollar signs!- 3 replies
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- Internal Throw out bearing
- internal
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Skidoo-j, that $0.70 o-ring at the dealer? It's more like $5.00! Yes, I bought it.
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Go for it! My 88 has floor rust, rust over the rear wheel wells and on one rocker in addition to the mechanical work. No problem with the mechanical work. I know jack squat about body work, but I'm learning. You're ahead of me with your XJ experience. Just get it and get in there and try to do whatever it needs. Worst case -you can't handle it and have to pay for some of the work. Best case - with the help of CC members you can do it and will enjoy your MJ more because you did it!
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Thanks. I assumed there was a way to do it, just didn't know how.
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Maybe I'm just a bit technology challenged, but is there a way to mark posts for future reference? I'm still in the "fix the rust and get it running reliably stage" of building my MJ but I see ideas for upgrades I would like to try to do in the (far distant) future. The problems are (a) remembering where I saw them, and (B) the search function brings up a ton of posts to sift through to find the one I need.
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You don't have the time required to understand women - in your entire life!
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Quadratec and/or Team Grand Cherokee for new parts.
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Badaboom! We're here all week - try the fish.
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What's the deal? Is the whole state of Colorado knee deep in Comanches? Do they migrate to the mountains to breed? I need to set out some bait to lure some to Alabama. Jim's cornering the market in the West.
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She's not teasing, bro. Take it from a guy who's been maried 51 years - they never kid about that! Congratulations on finding THE one and best wishes.
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One of my friends works at my local Advance and he's an old car guy. Has a Nova witha 400 + CI engine, full roll cage, etc. Hunts un-suspecting Mustang GT500's with it. So, if he's not there when I need something I go to the website, order online and pick up at the store.
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Hey, Jenssen - Guy on MJ Tech forum posted he has a stock bumper in good shape for $50.
