Keyav8r

There are 2 or 3 Pull-a-Part yards in the Atlanta area. You can check their inventory online. MJ buckets are hard to find so If there are no MJs, look for XJs and fabricate some brackets. There are number of threads in the MJ Tech forum on bucket seats. The best XJ buckets are from 2 door XJs as they tilt. I have 4 door buckets fabbed up for my MJ but still have my eye out for a good set of 2 door seats.

That's going to be an interesting insurance negotiation! Is the car in the photo the one who hit you? Might be a little leverage there. Bottom line, they're going to be hard pressed to even find a good used stock bumper. Good luck dealing with it!

Dang! Forgot to check it and I'm flying out today. If you still need one, PM me Thursday as a reminder. We old farts tend to be a mite forgetful at times.

Search "TPS adjustment" in MJ Tech forum. There are two posts on adjusting in the thread, Cruiser54's is the latest version.

Called my local NAPA and they do not carry metric o-rings. Guess I'll try the dealer with your PN's.

I didn't notice that third ring on the bolt. Might have found it when I cleaned the bolt before I re- installed it, but maybe not. Thanks for the info. I'll check the dealer and NAPA for the smallest one.

I believe it's near the agora.

BTW - That oil filter adapter bolt is a bugger to get off. Cruiser54 recommended a longer cheater and that worked. I had to use a combination open end/box end wrench because there's not enough room to get a socket and pull handle on the bolt (motor mount bolt and frame in the way).

Skidoo j - I took my filter adapter to NAPA and matched the small o-ring to it. Haven't put it back on yet so I'll measure it tonight and post the size for you.

Archimedes said "Give me a lever and I will move the world" (or something to that effect). Cruiser54 said "Use a longer cheater" (basically, same thing). Longer cheater worked - the oil filter adapter is off! I ordered the adapter gasket (o-ring) from Advance and got one large o-ring. The adapter takes two - larger diameter inner (against the block) and smaller diameter under the big washer head bolt. Matched the smaller one up at NAPA.

Better (more accurate) way to check it is to put a dial indicator on the face of the axle flange (where the wheel bolts on) and rotate the axle by hand. Then do the same thing on the other side. Compare the runout on both axle flanges. As a check, do the same thing on one of your MJs. You can pick up a dial indicator and stand from Harbor Freight fairly cheap. Or, find a friend who has one.

Forgot to prefix the previous post with AFAIK. Others on here know a lot more about this.

I believe the 90 with the orifice is for the vacuum line that goes to a fitting on the intake manifold. The purpose is to draw the oil vapors out of the rocker cover into the intake manifold where they will pass into the cylinders and be burned. The orifice limits the amount of vapors that will be pulled out. The 90 without the orifice should be for the line from the rocker cover to the air filter box. This allows fresh air to be drawn into the rocker cover to replace the oil vapors that are drawn out by the other line and prevents creation of a vacuum in the rocker cover. Neither 90 has a check valve. I have just replaced the rocker cover on my 88 MJ with one from a 96 XJ that has the full length baffle. The fitting with the orifice is broken and so far I haven't been able to get it out - don't want to break it off completely as I don't know if new replacements are available. Heading for the parts store to see what fittings they have for a work around.

I've got one with a tach, not sure about black/red. Will look at it tomorrow and get back to you.

Found a 96 XJ at PnP and pulled the booster. Somebody beat me to the master cylinder. Will my 88 MJ master cylinder work or do I need to buy a 96 MC? Plan on keeping my rear prop valve as I think it works. Putting shocks on todat and had to move the washer reservoir to get to the drivers side. Got a good look at my clutch MC and IT IS NOT LEAKING!

I cleaned my gray MJ carpet at the car wash, Just used the regular car wash soap, wnet over the whole carpet several times concentrating on stains and then rinsed it VERY well to get all the soap out. Mine had some rust stains at the seat mount locations but I dyed the carpret black with RIT fabric dye and they don't show enough to notice. I mixed the RIT dye in hot water, poured it into a "pump up" type garden sprayer and sprayed it on the carpet. I made several passes with the sprayer to ake sure it covered. I left it in the sun long enough to dry and then washed out the excess dye and let it sun dry again. Looks pretty good (IMHO). I did not wash the padding. Just scraped some rust off and sprayed it a couple of tomes with Febreeze. Can't help you on the rust stain removal as I just covered them up.

I think I'll follow jimoshel's lead and put a couple of studs in place of two bellhousing bolts, unbolt the rest, put a jack under the crossmember, unbolt it, tie a rope around the tail shaft and go to the back of the XJ and pull that sucker out (possibly with the help of a kick or two to break it loose). Thanks to all for the input!

Thank you, gents. This forum is invaluable to me as I work through my MJ. I'm amazed at the amount of information that;s either already on here or available form other members. Jeep Driver - good idea, plywood and a bottle jack. Genovast - This is a 2 wheel drive trans but I guess the speedo change still works(?). Do you know if the pilot bushing available from a dealership? The crossmember was on my mental list, just forgot to add it to the post. Is the crossmember different? I could see that the mount looked different from the BA10 mount. I'm assuming I should remove the shifter from inside the XJ before I unbolt the bell housing and crossmember, as well as disconnecting the line to the slave and the wires for the speedo. Anything else? jimoshel - you wouldn't happen to know what size the bolts or studs are, would you? Does the 94 have those reverse Torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing? And - amen on the foot, hand or head!

My 88 had a patched up manifold, leaked like mad and noisy. Got a new manifold from Jackson & Sons Jeep in Talladega, AL (and a speedo cable - he has a lot of NOS at reasonable prices). New manifold down pipe from Advance Auto. Will get a direct fit Walker (or equal) cat, muffler and tailpipe from Advance, NAPA, or Rock Auto - whichever has the best overall cost. Might go with a little better sounding muffler if I can avoid the pissed off bee/ricer burner sound. Just want to do it the simple way, bolt together. I suck at welding thin gauges.

Hoes in the firewall. The level of civility in discourse has taken another blow (pun intended).

Found a 94 XJ with AX15 external slave in local PnP. If I get the trans and bell housing w/external slave, what else do I need? Flywheel? Clutch cover plate and disc? Is there a way to hook up 88 cable driven speedo on the 94 trans (94 electric drive speedo?). If not, will the 94 cluster work in the 88 MJ? Any way to check out the trans after I pull it from the XJ and before I pay for it? If all the above is workable, the next problem is how to get it out of the XJ on large gravel w/out trans jack (if it's still there when I get back).

ftpiercecracker1 - you're in middle TN and Hornbrod's in NE AL. Just wind up and chunk it to him!

IMHO - This question is apparently too complex for finite human comprehension!

Chief Comanche - I think you may have missed the point that several people were trying to make regarding your " miles per tank" question. In your second post you stated that the (low fuel) light came on at 168 miles and the gauge registered empty. You didn't tell us if you filled up at that point or later and didn't tell us how much gas you put in when you filled up. Then you do the mileage math by dividing the 168 miles (when the light came on) by 18.5 gallons (a full tank) for a mileage of 9.08 MPG - which is incorrect. The 168 miles should have been divided by the number gallons you put in at that point. Or, the number of miles you drove between a full tank and a fill-up should be divided by the number of gallons at that fill- up. The resulting MPG figure would then be multiplied by 18.5 (tank size) to give you YOUR estimated number of miles per tank. Using other people's MPG figures to calculate your full tank range is of no value Your range will be determined by your MPG. In his first post Cruiser54 suggested the two most likely causes for an erroneous fuel gauge reading and said to calculate your MPG by dividing miles driven by fuel burned, which is what almost everyone else said but your posts didn't indicate that you picked up on. I think his second post was a tongue in cheek comment on the whole measuring issue. I don't know how long you've been a member, but in the short time I've been a member I've noted that Cruiser54 is one of a group of very knowledgable members who are very helpful to us MJ neophytes. The second thing I've noted is that courtesy is the standard in all discourse on this forum, even when there is a disagreement or misunderstanding.

If you were closer I might be interested, but AZ is a little far too drive from AL.