Keyav8r

On the assumption you're out of country in the armed forces - thank you for your service! Looking forward to the trip thread.

Hmmm! Bought in OR, shipped to FL, and driving it to AK. Right now i wouldn't trust mine for a ride to the gas station and back. Got any pictures of this MJ? Must be a very good one for that kind of investment! If I had that emblem I'd send it to you in return for photos of the bucket list trip.

Looked like some rust under the passenger door but the rest of it looked pretty good. Curious about "brakes need adjusting". Why couldn't trucks like this have been available in AL when I was trying to find one? Murphy's Law, vehicular section.

I actually just got back on the forum to find a thread to tell me where/how the pressure bottle is tapped into the heater hoses and found your supporting recommendations. Going that way when I get the heater box hung back on the firewall (new heater core). I've got all new hoses and plan to change the crank pulley (little bit of rubber poking out), thermostat (195 degree), belt and idler pulley. The truck had a new water pump on it when I bought it and the radiator and AC evaporator have been replaced. AC isn't currently working and has no Freon in the system but we have a refrigeration tech in our service department who might take care of it in return for the donation of a few adult beverages.

ParadiseMJ - well, doh! The reason I couldn't find where that line went is because I've got the radiator (and that valve) out and all the hoses off for replacement! I knew I should have taken a photo or ten when I pulled the hoses off. Thanks for the photo. Don - seriously considering doing away with the valve. From what I've read it doesn't seem to have any effect on the performance of the heating/ventilation system if it's removed. And, it would make the engine bay a little less messy looking. Jim - of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

There are two vacuum lines that run from the heater control through the firewall (above the heater core and AC evaporator connections). One is black and goes to a vacuum connection beside the relay assembly on the right fender well. I assume this line continues to the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper. The other vacuum line is purple (inside the cab), but mine is bleached out to a pinkish/whitish color in the engine bay. This line pulled loose while I was removing the heater box and I don't know where it is supposed to be connected. It has a short section of vacuum hose on the end which I'm assuming is to connect to another vacuum line but I can't find a loose line on the right side of the engine bay. Does anyone know where this line connects? No photos as I have to re-learn Photobucket upload/download/attachment again. It's been said that the mind is the first thing to go and I believe the short term memory is the leader in that parade!

Switch not making contact? Do you have power at fuse? Trace wiring from back-up lights back to switch and check for continuity and check for power on fuse side of switch. If power at fuse and no power at switch, trace wiring between switch and fuse for continuity.

Thanks. I wondered if it was EZ Cool. That's what I saw in one of the earlier posts but couldn't remember the name. How long did it take you to do the interior? Did you use masking tape, etc when you sprayed the adhesive? From what you and ftpiercecracker1 posted it doesn't sound very hard to do. BTW - did you sell the wheels?

Check for holes in your firewall. I had a lot of smoke/exhaust smell in the cab because of a leak between the manifold and the exhaust pipe. My speedo cable is missing and the grommet is gone so the stuff came directly into the cab. I temporarily stopped the exhaust leak with a muffler repair wrap (have a whole new exhaust system to install soon, including manifold) and put some tape over the speedo cable hole (until I put my new cable in). Also bought the OEM transmission boot for a good seal there. That's solved the exhaust gas in the cabin for now.

Couldn't get any good results searching for flare stud replacement, flare repair, flare studs, etc. When I searched for flares I got every post that had the word in it. IDK if there's a better way to search, but it seems harder after the upgrade. I'm not complaining about the upgrade because I think it's great overall. I just can't seem to retrieve info as readily as before. Probably just my old technology challenged brain.

I think somebody had a thread on replacing the studs for the flares. There are also some posts about just replacing the hardware with regular bolts and fender washers. I'll try a search for the stud replacement and post if I find anything.

ftpiercecracker1 and Butchershop - I really like how that looks installed and will probably go that way. The website is apparently being upgraded so I can't get any info on the material. What size roll does it come in and how much does it cost? I've almost finished my floor and cab work (have the dash out to replace the heater core) and would like to get insulation installed before putting the interior back in the truck.

Congratulations and best wishes. Two tips - (1) learn to compromise and (2) never go to bed angry. Those two have worked pretty well for me for 51 years.

Pyle front and rear speakers, Quadratec floor mats, gift card from Advance Auto from family to me. Lincoln 140 Mig welder and gas bottle from me to me. Let the body work begin! (After the heater core and cooling system and ?).

Didn't notice that at first. The flares and lights are on the drivers side in the third photo.

Merry Christmas to all and may your stockings be stuffed with MJ goodies!

There are several threads on the forum on different seats for MJs including buckets and a few split benches. Anything other than MJ buckets will require some modification/fabrication. I found some XJ buckets in good shape and fabbed brackets to mount them in my truck. If you can find a pair of MJ brackets it makes the job much easier, but those are pretty rare.

OK, so there are some benefits to insulating. Hadn't though about the radiated heat and cooling can be an issue on MJs. Any ballpark numbers on perfromance improvement?

Split a piece of hose and wrap it around the line where it contacts the firewall/frame/etc. for a quick and easy fix. you could try bending the line to clear, but there's a chance you might put a kink in it or break it. If those are the original brake lines they're around 20 to 25 years old and could be easily broken.

The only reason to paint stainless steel would be cosmetic. Don't know if there is any performance to be gained by insulating it. IMHO, just slap it on and run it.

Looks good from the photos. Be sure and crawl under it with a flashlight and check the cab floor on both sides for rust through. If you can, look under the carpet in the footwells as this is the prime rust-through area. Check the rockers and the wheel well arches under the flares for rust. I would check everything before you test drive it so that the good feeling of driving it will be balanced somewhat by any negatives you may find an give you an edge in negotiating. While you're under the truck look for fluid leaks, frame/unibody damage, exhaust condition, rust in other areas, and anything that is "rigged", duct taped or tied together with baling wire Test driving - other than the usual things, check braking normally and braking hard going straight and in turns. Try light acceleration and light deceleration in an intermediate gear to see how much slack there is in the drive train. Get it up to highway speeds on a rough surface to check for DW. Some of the members who have been owning, repairing and driving MJs longer than I have will be able to add to or correct any of the above. Welcome to the club and the joy/misery of MJ ownership!

Grey interiors are very common in JYs. Dashes, door panels, kick panels and buckets from 4 door XJs will work (will have to mod the seat brackets and 2 door XJ seats would be better). The A pillar trim may work. B pillar trim is MJ specific as is the back window trim. Those parts can be painted if you can't find grey replacements. The carpet can be dyed/painted as can the carpeted panel behind the seats, probably black to cover the maroon if dyed. So, I would go with the grey headliner and visors if that's the color interior you want to wind up with.

If I knew what adobe flash/CSS/XHTML is I'd jump right in there. But, I think it's a truly great idea and will be glad to use it!

Ah, yes - the unending hunt for the elusive black interior. Gotta admit a black interior would look good if I ever get to paint my MJ the silver/gray I want.

Send me enough money to buy an AX-15, bell housing and external slave and I'll crate my 2WD BA10/5 up and ship it right to ya!