Exgrayxj

Cruiser's advice has always been golden in my case ... The second option, the 2 piece injectors, I would avoid, often they leak at the plastic/steel juncture. Mine did, right after I kitted the originals. The third set would also work, I believe the main thing to look for is the plug in connection, make sure you don't get something off the wall. Your original injectors use a metal clip, not used with the one piece body, more injection hole, later style. If Cruiser recommended that particular injector, that is where I would go. There are also some Ford ones that will work, and they are pretty much the same look as the Volvo ones, I assume there is an advantage to the Volvo ones.

I like that he put it, "not in a rush to sell", that is stating the obvious ...

Maybe you are already doing this, but if not, when you have the radiator cap that Cruiser recommended (Volvo cap) it will be a press fit into the neck of the tank. Sort of an interference fit, before the threads connect, then tighten it on. The factory one, dealer one and ALL available replacement stock type (black "knurled" grip) are junk, and will lose their grip on the threads of the tank. The Volvo one won't. There is a "post" in the tank, directly below the neck, and the cold coolant level is at the "notch" in the post, over fill it and it will probably push some out. Park the truck on an incline, front down, so that the rear of the cylinder head is higher than the front, remove the temp sender, this will bleed air trapped in the head. Re install it when burping stops, it won't take long. Run a fan shroud. Make sure the fan clutch is good. On my 2 (LT1 powered XJ and stock MJ) I got a later model (I prefer the 97 up, but I think the twisted blades started in ~95) electric fan, there seems to be several blade counts, got mine from the u pull, the plug will probably be wrong so get both halves of the plug. With a 160 tstat and an aluminum radiator, my LT1xj runs at 185, in traffic it goes up a little, so then I turn the A/C on, to kick on both fans, cools right back down ... On the xj I modified the stock plastic tank to be my resevoir, gutted the stock cap, and it usually keeps about 1/2-3/4" cold level coolant in the tank, more at first shut off, then drops to that level cold. With a 190 tstat, your gauge reading will probably be at ~210 normally. Hope some of this helps, maybe you don't really have a problem, just over filled.

Don, I don't know what the Omix one is/will be, but very recently I replaced the one in my old Dodge pickup. The factory ones I found were quite spendy, so with some searching on Ebay I found the ATP replacement cable, for IIRC $18 shipped. So I got one, and installed it promptly. A quick comparo, all same same. Within a week it was binding nearly as badly as my old, original '85 cable. It comes thru the firewall and makes a loop, that may be why, same as the stocker did tho. My thoughts are that the plastic cable sleeve is perhaps softer, and the loop has caused the wire part to wear into the sleeve. Just to let you know I am on the hunt for another old, used, factory one.

My xj has 15x8 Ravines and 31/10.50 all seasons, the MJ has 16x7 Icons with 265/75 I would post a pic but I am too stupid ... and all my pics are on the compooter. 15x10 wheel?no way. With a spacer/adapter? NFW. With a factory wheel/factory backspacing, it is MUCH easier on wheel bearings, sits at or inside factory flares, and fills the openings

And the verdict is ... ?

On my LT1 Chevy powered xj Waggy, and again on the '90 mj, when I converted to open system, I used the original pressure tanks, just modified them to work. Both had pressure split at the seam, so were NFG anyway. I sawed the nipple off the bottom and the side, cleaned things up, and used a metal tubeless tire valve stem, did a little searching in my junk box. Ran hose from radiator nipple along heater hoses to bottom of tank. Zip ties. There is no pressure there now, so no pressure to make the cracked tank leak.. Gutted the screw on cap. Simple. Screwed a countersunk pipe plug into the top(side) port. After things equalize, you will find that the level varies hardly at all, I usually run with only about an inch or so of coolant in the tank, and things seem to be working fine ... tank remains in stock location, and I didn't have to buy more parts or find new location. Don't forget a new rad cap.

Just sayin ... I don't think it is the tires, and I wouldn't bother swapping/spending that cash for smaller ones ... 31/10.50s aren't that much taller than 235/75s ... I am running 265/75/16 on mine (though it is 3.55 gear) it is not a problem, only time I even notice it is under light throttle and seeking a mild increase, a little nudge or a pull down one notch and good to go. And, now with the new rad, open system to get rid of the pain of the closed system, and a correct switch, I am good to go. For now. Now that fall is upon us, I am going to fix the a/c.

Is this perhaps a Renix/HO thing? My fsm is '89, my mj is '90, and I do not have the long stand pipe for the return /nipple. Not capable of scanning the fsm, and can't find my Chilton.

I dug out my FSM. Coolant flow is out the thermostat nipple, to the bottom heater connection, returns from there to the ... duh ...other nipple. I also went out and looked at my mj, and that is the way it is. I have eliminated the heater control valve also. BTW, not that it helps you any, but I found my temp sender to be defective, reading about 100 degrees plus high! Notice it the other morn, turned the switch on to run the fuel pump before cranking, noticed that I already had temp! And hadn't even started it yet! This is the SECOND replacement sender since the gauge swap, with the same symptom. So far, I am back to normal ... for now. As an aside, I am not sure it makes a difference on the heater flow if there is NOT a control valve, I THINK it may have something to do with filling the core from the bottom, exiting the top. On a '64 Plymouth I once had, reversing the hoses caused heater core failure, not just once either ... got sick of changing them 'til i Figured out what I had done.

While you have the belt off give the alternator a couple spins ... it is possible you have an alt bearing going bad. I sometimes rub some bar soap on the belts at idle, it stops things for a while.

I agree, but a couple weeks ago I was there with a friend looking for Dodge parts, he had never been there, and I found these two. Today I installed the rear end, and I couldn't be more pleased ... came with nearly new brake shoes/hardware, good drums, tight and quiet! AND, the truck shows about 206 K miles! Did a little ironing on the bumper and it is also on, MAJOR improvement on the mangled one I had, just need to get the rubber ends now, someone got them before I got there. And let me say again, both had good seats! And the lt blue one has a really n ice bed, very minor damage at the bottom front from them moving it with the forklift. Be a crying shame to see it get crushed ... OH! And for you rustbelters, all removal work was done with hand tools!!! lol

Yes, I have been following it closely- I am having the same problem. Had heating problems previously, thought they were cured, had gotten to the point I dared to drive without one eye on the temp gauge. It's been nearly a year. The other day, started to run hotter again. Though I didn't do it, the pump is fairly new, still shiny, and I have coolant flow. Fan clutch replaced previously. Thermostat new, but pulled it and checked again. Hoses good, no collapse/suck shut. This weekend replaced the radiator with a brand new one. Pulled and checked the fan clutch again. All shrouds in place. Later style electric fan (s blade). Bled the head at the temp sender. Converted to open system. Still slowly gains temp, going down the road. If I manually turn on the aux fan, it will bring the temp down to around 210 (dash gauge). No coolant loss, no steam/antifreeze smell from tailpipe. Flush cap at the highest point in my heater hose for secondary bleed point, and to check for full. Not trying to hijack, just needed to vent. Can I borrow your cliff?

You have PM ...

Just today went to Orlando LKQ, 2 count em 2 88-89 Comanches there, a pretty rough red long bed, and a pretty decent short bed, both 4.0/AW4/2wd. Not much gone from them, tho I got the rear end, tail lights and rear bumper from the blue one, and someone else got the tailgate. Before I got there. Drat. Both have really good cloth bench seats (no notch) and the blue one has a whole real decent blue interior, and it was a Pioneer, I believe, tho it has been repainted. The red one has a tan interior, nice seat. And both have good headliners, cloth still up, backers looked good. The blue one is so nice it is a shame to see it broken up for parts and crushed. If I had seen it for sale I would have bought it, the body and interior is much nicer than what I am working with. Wish the seats were grey ...seems like 90% have grey, and these 2 nice ones are something else. OH! And tomorrow and Monday they are having their typical holiday sale, HALF PRICE! I got: 2 tail lights Dana 35 clean tight and good brakes/drums real good but not perfect rear bumper (missing end caps) L&R rear flares and inners for $135, including core charge for the bumper(?) so I am happy! At least I won't have to listen to my growling rear axle. I know, I know, it is just a matter of time this one will, but at least for a while ... No pics, I am too stupid ... OH! AND THE BLUE ONE HAS A REALLY NICE SHORT BED, looks to have had a bed liner, they buggered it just a little on the left side with the fork lift ... I think half price makes it $75? Flares are still there, just no tails, but the red one has driver quality tails, I got the ones from the blue one, they are just driver quality, right one has 2 tabs broken ... :clapping: