bodukexj

Bump 1300. I'm surprised this is still here; it sure is a shame watching her rust away in the yard......

Bump. $1500

Bump. $1700.

Hornbrod; its an off road only trailer queen- I'm running 33" right now, and may go to 35's when I've got a bit less body panels left ;) I figure do it once and do it right... As for a good gear guy inside of 50 miles, the one guy that was actually willing to touch them quoted me $500 per axle plus parts!! Sounds like he really doesn't want to do it... Plan B is the 3.73 front; my 8.8 is already 3.73, and to be honest, the 3.55s that were under the truck really never gave me any problems... I'm really only regearing to get two matching axles... Somehow, somewhere... And I figure if I'm gonna do it, I might as well do it once and Max out the Dana 30. (Everything else is stock, if it matters.)

I would gladly regar, except I can't find anybody to do it for me. I'd LOVE to bring both axles down to 4.88, but the only quote I got for that was $500/axle plus parts! I was hoping to score a quick 3.73 front that would match the ford 8.8 out back

Like it says, I'm looking for a 3.73 Dana 30 to go under an xj/mj. Would really prefer the whole assembly hub to hub, but would settle for all the guts to go from 3.55 to 3.73. Up to $250 cash in hand, depending on what you've got; also offering a finders fee. Located in 29560, but will travel within reason.

FYI: that 88 with the white cab/black bed in Hemingway, sc has been relisted at $2000... ;)

bump. $2000

Reduced price. $2500obo

Bump. With pix.

I've got one (Comanche) listed in the Craigslist section. Located in Florence/Myrtle beach, sc.

I actually had this plug pop out when my block froze... But that's a different story... I managed to get a new one in with a big prybar, and using the pinch weld where the hood mates up as a leverage point. No removal of anything nessicary. I just pressed it in until the lip was fluch with the head surface... Seems good so far ( two years later).

Added myself in sc.

Classic vacuum problem. Check, check and recheck the vacuum lines. I usually just run a direct line from the manifold to the heater control panel. (It's a safety thing; all vehicles are set up to failsafe to defroster if they loose vacuum- you don't need cabin heat, but you do need a clear windshield!)

I've done dozens of these... As stated above, just use 1/4x20 bolts of the appropriate length, and nyloc (aircraft) locknuts, and you'll never have to worry about it again. (P.s. if its a slow motor, check that it has a good ground before replacing it. It may also me misaligned window guides- I usually check that by smearing the guides with vasoline or wd40; roll the window up and down a few times- if it speeds up, its the guides, if not, possibly the motor...) Good luck!!