Keyav8r

gomorgo - can you share how you uploaded from IOS? When I "click to chose files" and pick a photo I get a message that I can only upload 501 kB. Apparently all my photos are over 501 kB.

Great job! Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this. Will we be able to upload images directly from phones or tablets?

I don't think I've ever seen a Comanche with a hood ornament before.

Glad you made it through the "experience". Hope you continue to get better!

Just remembered - you have to get the second boot off to get to the snap ring.

There is not a clip or snap ring holding the top part of the shifter shaft to the bottom part. It is a tapered square fit. If you pull the snap ring shown, the whole shifter shaft may come out along with the ball assembly that it swivels on. The way I got mine (88 with a BA10) to separate was to pull the whole shifter off the trans, put the lower part in a vise (upside down) and whack the edge of the top part with a large ball peen hammer and a dull chisel (or a large punch). The reason I pulled it was to fill the trans with new lube. That was easier than trying to get the oddball plug out of the side. Drain plug came out OK, but the fill plug beat me. Since you're trying to avoid cutting or tearing the flooring, you may want to try removing the snap ring, after putting the trans in neutral so that it will go back together more easily. Get the whole shifter shaft out, separate the two pieces and put the lower part back in the transmission to keep the gearing from moving around without the shifter in place while you are pulling and re-installing the trans.

Mattbuch96 - Do those leds work with the dimmer or are they on full all the time?

Put it in neutral first.

Don - jealousy makes people say hurtful things. I know it's difficult to hear those things, being the sensitive, caring guy you are. But, just remember the important things in life. Like, we don't own Renix jeeps. That having been said, dissing your ride when it lays down in you is an honored American tradition.

Is there a way to post this funding idea to the membership in general? I would be glad to propose it to everyone if it can be done. Or, one of the admins can make the proposal. Either way, my $5 will be on the way today.

Why don't we make the funding easy? Everybody send $5 to Pete via PayPal "money to friends" - if Pete's OK with that and will post his PayPal or if he will give it all who PM him. What isn't used for the upgrade can be held for annual costs/maintenance.

One thing to think about is replacing/moving the reservoir. In preparation for installation of a double diaphragm brake booster, I picked up an XJ reservoir that mounts on the passenger firewall. It has two pumps, one for the windshield and one for the XJ rear hatch. I think it was from a 96. Buy a little hose and wire to reroute everything, bring the hose from the pump you don't use far enough up,that you can connect it to the hose to the sprayers and you have an installed spare pump. Or, you could go Hornbrod's route and fit the reservoir in the fender. I believe it was also an XJ reservoir with dual pumps, but I could be wrong.

On my 91 those hoses have long metal lines on the condenser end that are formed to fit through the small space between the radiator and the sheet metal in the area. It doesn't look to me like there is enough space to just run hoses to/from the condenser. Hopefully, the hose shop can make and form new metal lines as part of the hoses. Not sure what you mean by aluminum extensions for the condenser. When I replaced my condenser the fittings were in the same location and standard MJ/XJ hoses fit without any problem.

Once again, apologies to the OP for the thread jack - and to Noriyori for the excellent AC advice. I think I'll go back through all of the connections, replace the o-rings and " snug" the threaded connections as you advised. I probably went a little gorilla on them thinking tighter would mean less leak potential. The only ones that wii be hard to do are the condenser connections. Maybe I won't have to take the header panel off again. BTW - I replaced the valves on the compressor and had a leak there because I used the wrong size o-ring. There's more to this AC stuff than I thought there would be. But, that's been the case with almost every project I've done on my truck.

Not to thread hijack - but I have to ask, how tight should the hose connections be? I've got a vacuum leak that goes from about 28" Hg to 0 in 2-3 hours. Wondering if I may have crushed or pinched an o-ring. I lubricated all of them with compressor oil when I assembled the connections. And, is CO2 available in cans like refrigerant? All hoses except one are new (couldn't find the last one), new condenser, new dryer, new pressure switch, new block thing at firewall (senior moment, can't remember what it's called), new seal in old compressor, and old evaporator (couldn't find a new one with the hole for the thermistor).

Congratulations! A word of advice from the pastor that married us 50 some years back - Never go to sleep mad at each other. Even though we've broken the rule a few times, I think it works for a happier marriage.

If that was the only Jeep pickup I could own, I'd buy a Prius instead. Or a Fiat 500. Butt ugly is the best description for it.

I got some 1" thick neoprene foam rubber from Birmingham Rubber & Gasket and cut a gasket for the heater box at the firewall to replace the one that tore when I pulled the box out. It was closed cell and firm enough to cut with a coping saw. The piece was some scrap they had left over and I got it free (our company buys from them). Check your area for a similar company.

I have a Mopar 04897729AA that I bought for my 88 2WD LWB BA10 w/o speed control. May be for an auto trans, not sure. If it would work for you, $25 shipped. Edit - bought it from a Jeep parts house in Talladega that has a lot of old NOS parts. He said it would work for my truck. If you're interested, PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send you some photos.

If you find a source for MJ specific (SWB) bed rail caps, let me know.

Getting the wiring harness in the right position is one of the hard parts of re-installing the dash (like any part is easy). Almost all of my wire ties/anchors that held the harness in place broke the part off that hooks into the dash. Had to do some creative rigging to keep it where it needed to be for the dash to fit back in correctly. This is the second dash I've completely removed from one of these trucks and the two were different in some details. Best bet is to take lots of photos as it comes out.

Pardon the partial thread hijack, but a tip for preventing/minimizing the potential for broken bolts is to run a tap through the hole to clean and straighten the threads before re-assembly. This will also help in getting a better bond if you plan to use thread locker when re-assembling. Use a bottom tap in blind holes to reach as deep as possible. On studs, use a stiff wire brush if you can't run a die over the threads. Be careful with Harbor Freight/Chinese taps as they may have problems with thread size and pitch as well as quality (they may be more prone to break off in the hole). If a bolt is hard to thread in, don't keep cranking on it. Back out, see what's causing it and fix it. Takes less time than getting broken bolts out. Common sense, but we've all probably been guilty at some point of getting in a hurry and "saving time" by not cleaning or replacing dirty/damaged fasteners.

Check the vacuum line manifold that clips onto the back of the HVAC control. Mine came loose when I pulled and re-installed the dash. Had to pull the control back out and wiggle my fingers back behind it to get it reconnected. Did you put in a new evaporator or swap the whole box out from a donor vehicle?

I've been able to post photos (multiple photos with text between) with Tapatalk on my iPad. My problem is remembering how I did it the last time. I think I have CRS.

Look at the illustration again. The flat is on the smooth section behind the splines (closest to the valve body). The edge of the flat is shown there. As Don said, you have pull the arm to see it. The real trick is holding it in place while you put the arm back on. A thin open end wrench of the proper size will work best. And no, I don't remember what the proper size is.