Jeep Driver

Comparing the condition of yours to Stroker's..........yours may be too distorted to even make a good mold from.

You would start by building a wooden buck to hold the piece, to straighten out the piece.....attach to the buck. Then you make a mold of the piece. From the mold you make a casting. From the casting you make a new mold. Remove all imperfections of the new casting. From casting you make a final mold. From the final mold you lay up fiberglass. Or you can do vacuum carbon fiber. It goes something like that. Time, tools, materials, knowledge, talent = S-loads of money. I've tried to encourage you guys to watch all forms of car related vids, instructional vids. Even vids/instruction that does not necessarily relate to Jeep. Some things do or can transfer over to 4X trucks. When you watch custom, one-off, car/truck builds......metal forming, glass work, paint and body...........this is where the money is spent, well into the hundreds of thousands of dollars.

I went with cable..........so...........IDK. Pics would be helpful.

Does not apply to the 2.5.

Kids are kids, dogs are dogs. You'll understand when you start having kids. And, when you start having kids......better hope your Husky doesn't see your baby as another goat. We had a Siberian when I was kid.......he was a good dog. Otherwise.....

The only kit I would buy and will consider buying in the future is the Ironmanfab 4 link........it becomes the X-member. There is a member here who just installed this.......don't' remember who though. https://www.ironman4x4fab.com/

If you want it to work......... Get the switch out of the radiator, wire it independently. You have a choice, you can take control of your problem -or- you can continue to fight with archaic crap and subpar aftermarket garbage.

91 and 92 are MPI. None the less.............no.

I'm of no direct help to you, surely. But I will speak to the principle. I buy nothing overseas, I've been tempted to. If I needed a must have- no way around it item- For example, there are a couple of members here from Europe in good standing, I'd reach out to them, if they were willing to help......I'd feel fairly comfortable sending money. If it was a well known worldwide company? Maybe, maybe I'd deal direct. Otherwise, no. Or- Would I risk $100? Sure. Would I risk $1000, absolutely not. Case in point, I'd really like a pair of driving lights from Australia but without a US supplier........no way am I sending off $1000. I'd also never use any means that is connected to my bank account or credit cards.......maybe PP or Int MO or some other transfer.

What makes uni-body work? The totality of the structure. I cringe when I see guys just hacking parts out. What I'm curious about is just how rigid the camper is? Cut out the back and attach that camper to the cab........all the wind pressure and weight will be transferred to the cab......or the remnant of the cab. And that camper will move independent of the cab/uni-frame. Remember, that which does not flex will break. All that mass will move, has to move, that camper is 3-4 times the mass of the cab......or more. Better think this one through.

This is what you need.

Knock/tick sounds are too hard to identify using a vid, unfortunately. Does not sound like rod knock to me, too inconsistent. I agree, sounds more like your exhaust manifold is cracked, those can crack anywhere, the #1 tube completely separated at the collector on mine. Chances are those manifolds are manufactured by one company and sold under a dozen different names, won't really matter where you buy one. I went with a header so I can't tell you those manifolds are quality or not.

Cast of product- for those who may be interested in painting their own. I picked up the balance of what I need to paint the cab next weekend. Lacquer thinner for cleaning. Denatured alcohol for cleaning. Liteweight filler for interior, headliner. Liteweight filler exterior, 3M. (over-metal) Upol 2 part putty. Over-metal seam sealer. Upol 2K primer. Primer/surfacer for bodywork. Single stage enamel for frame and under bed. Base coat black for bumpers, vents, mirrors, flares. (no clear, hardener added) Single stage enamel for tailgate handle and grille, Sterling to match factory JEEP letters on tailgate. Base coat Coffee, stock color. Base coat Pearl, metallic, blue. Base coat custom color interior match. (no clear, hardener added) Clear, slow activator. Reducer, medium, single stage. Reducer, 50/50 slow and extra slow. Other, misc, paper, tape, sandpaper (grits- 80-600)......etc....

Yes, I'll be building a tent.

You are not showing us much there.......bracketry...........but OK. If you need the Alt bracket after you find an AC bracket, I have one here- https://www.ebay.com/itm/283465585478

What year? Post a pic of what you are working with, pic of your existing alt bracket too.

I'm surprised that AMC would have bothered with an AC and an non-AC harness.

Whoever brought that truck to the PnP was an idiot. But then.......the world if full of idiots.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/917222_03.htm

Ah ha! CL comes through again! FaceFreaks are phony.

Face Freak needs to die a horrible death.

I just posted an ad on CL, automotive parts..................NO FEE.