Jeep Driver

Nice.

Go to the 'help' section and look for ones to work......make it work. Image Not Found

http://comancheclub.com/topic/42430-on-the-subject-of-wj-control-arms/

Iphone Image Not Found Image Not Found Nikon Image Not Found Image Not Found

Is it just me and mine? A week ago the driver's rear brake begins to hang up. I take it apart the the shoes will not relax and it looks like the wheel cylinder is not retracting so I replace it, bleed it. Now the truck begins to pull to the left when brake is applied, now I'm thinking the left is working as it should and I need to replace the others side, replace and bleed. Still pulls left. Now I realize it is the parking brake cable on the driver's side that is froze up, parking brake is a must here in the hills. Break it all down last night, try to loosen the cable, no go. get cable to free up brake, back down adjuster so the driver's brake no longer drags, still pulls left. Order new cables from Rockauto. Take it for a drive, let brakes heat up. Using the painful touch test, now I realize it's the driver's front brake that is not releasing. Gets REAL hot, drags, pulls hard left with applied. So.........rotors turned today......divits welded and surfaced on the pad slide of the knuckes........bleed again. Rear brakes will get done when the cables show up. Is it just me, or is this a constant with you guys too?

EVERY part I have replaced in the last two years had to be replaced again, EVERY part. "New" means nothing to me anymore, Quality means everything now.

In all my years of driving, I've never had a TC go bad, never knew anyone that had one go bad. Not saying they don't go bad.......but.........

I have the Iphone5, great for documenting and emailing images of work I do to contractors I work for. Virtually instant and while I'm at the job. However, I use the camera for nothing else. For forum stuff- I have a Panasonic Lumix and a Nikon. Every electronic item I own uses rechargeable batteries, I have not bought a pack of batteries in a couple of years now.

Exactly what I said- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Cassete-player-for-1996-Jeep-Cherokee-Model-P56007214-/310900337032?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item48631aa988&vxp=mtr

If they don't light up, can they be replaced/fixed easily? It could just be a wiring issue, I'll try to get to that tomorrow. What you have is a $10 radio that you could not give away on a good day. There is a thread here regarding the same issue with a newer radio...97 up... The problem may not be the LED itself but the circuitry that controls the LED. Assuming that you could find a radio shop that could fix it....for say.....$90.......why would you spend $90 on a $10 radio? Look for a replacement.

Call ahead before ordering and ask for Joe. Tell him you are a CC member for a discount. http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm Thanks, bookmarked. My springs are fine but I would like to change the bushings........guess you gotta swap the whole spring though........saw nothing on their site about bushings.

I don't guess they are replaceable? I just checked and complete shafts range from Crown $120 to Mopar at $285. PnP? Any advise or upgrade years from WJ or ZJ or GMs? Got a pop now......just one more thing to drive me nuts about.

Where did you order them from? Part#s?

A couple of weeks ago I decided to get a pair of arms from the PnP, 2000 WJ. They looked good, but not so much. After spending time and money to get my steering and suspension tight, I was really disappointed in the WJ arms. The lock-to-lock was wonderful but on the road I had a great deal of wallow in the steering and a new 'knock' or rattle that I did not have before. After two days I removed them and reinstalled the newer original arms, steering was back to tight again. What I discovered after removing the WJ arms was the front bushings were so worn that the arm was riding the axle tube, I also believe this movement is what gave me the 'wallow' feeling in the steering from the back and forth movement, also the source of the knock. I was able to return the arms to the PnP and get a credit of $48, little expensive for used arms. Now I was left with question of what to do, I could no longer live with the rubbing of the 31s but did not want to spend $230-$380 for after market arms, only to be disappointed there too with ride quality or bushing wear every couple of years. After looking around I decided to go with NAPA brand arms, I had used a couple of their bushings in the UCAs to replace the POS Moogs that I had installed a couple of years ago and the NAPA appears to be much better quality. NAPA was $136 with tax for both arms. Old PnP arms, I measured the original bushing width and trimmed. Image Not Found Image Not Found I'm not the best welder.....my uncled always told me...."It ain't always got to be purdy, it's just gotta stick". But I wanted to open up the mounts, so I trimmed the bottom of the shock mount and cut the corners of the LCA mount and welded it back up. Image Not Found Old arms Image Not Found New arms. Image Not Found Trimmed a little less this time. Image Not Found I also trimmed about 1/4" off the front of the arm to make certain there would be no contact with the axle tube. Image Not Found Moral of the story- buy new when it comes to control arm replacement. Very nice and tight and quiet ride now, I do recommend the NAPA arms.

Well, how about you send one of them up here to E TN? Nothin' round here.

From what I've seen, the AC should be the same. I would not want the disconnect front axle nor would I want the inner slave on the trans........but I guess beggars can't be choosers.

Where did you find the bushings?

You can do the late model 2W knuckles with the unit bearing.

Over the weekend I installed the WJ LCAs from a 2000 at the PNP and my steering went to $#!&. Are your LCAs new or used? I took them off it was so bad.

You'll need an amp and the amp ain't wired to the fuse box anyway......you head unit will draw minimal current.

What parts do you have? I assume you have a 4.11 rear? Where are you looking for the D30? How did you come about what you have and not the front axle? You have the tube-in-tube rear DS, unless you find a shop that will shorten yours, you'll need to have one made.

One or the other......sorry man.

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found $180

I just had a one in two out installed on mine a week ago. Will post pics later.

Little late for opinions now......just made arrangements.