Jeep Driver

Exactly the same with the one that I had. I now have and Exide gel and I like it.

Everything that is available for the 8.8 is available for the 8.75. I searched around for a couple of hours a week ago and I did not bookmark any of the sites........don't have time now.........but everything and anything you want is out there. http://www.drivetrainshop.com/Chrysler_8_75_s/82.htm

Yeah. Centered and removable center section, not offset as the POS Ford is. Axle housing is more like the Ford9 in that it's a one piece unit, not tubes inserted into the center of the housing. Comes in multiple lengths depending on application. I'm getting different WMS to WMS surface measurements or axle widths depending on the source of info....but........62" seems to be consistent. A 63" is also listed. I'm going to find some old ones to measure for myself in the coming month. I'd much rather gain an inch at each wheel without using spacers. I'd also imagine that like the D44 or nonC D35 the disc brake conversion will be similar. Also, I'd like to keep the drive train in the family.

I called last week on a 8.75 that was in a 66 Fury, WMS to WMS is 62 and the bolt pattern is 5 on 4.5 The guy selling said he uses them in his drag cars.......he wants $350 for it......I passed. But later did some digging and apparently they are robust and Chrysler used them in full sized and some muscle cars in the 60s and 70s. They are supported with aftermarket and I like the removable center section. Still on my list of possibilities.........will not be cheap though. Some sites I visited referred to them as a Dana 60.

What rear axle?

Sorry. Been there. That is repairable, getting the insurance to cover it is a different matter. Argue with them. At least buy it back.

The 2.5 has a remote tank and I want the tank to go away. The 04 WJ that I got it from was immaculate other than the fact it was totaled. The pump looks shiny new.

WJ. Brain fart.

His question was a little more complicated. In my own shopping over the last couple of months I found a couple of complete kits in the range of $600........yet he scoffs at the cost at his own link. He also states that he does not want to do the physical work of actually finding used parts. He did not state that he has or has found a suitable D44, I have been looking and near impossible to find without doing some alteration or regearing.......either width or gearing or new axles due to 6 lug........what have you. He will, with his approach, find that he will sink $1200 in an axle real quick like........not to mention the cost of a locker. If he wants store bought he might as well order a custom D44 or a 9" and simply pay the $1800 and have it shipped to his door. Most of us dig and scrounge like dogs to find parts we can afford, and in his case he can bolt on discs for about $180 in an afternoon.

Thanks. Bad googlefoo tonight. But I finally found this- http://www.moabjeeper.com/articles/technical/listing.cfm?articleID=411

I'm upgrading to the WZ pump with reservoir in lieu of the remote tank style I have now. I need to swap pulleys as the 2.5 pulley is out further from the pump for belt alignment. Is the pulley pressed on? Any tips?

You won't find a thread on GM swap because the lug pattern for GM is 4.75. Ford or Chrysler uses 2.5 spacing to backplate and 4.5 on the lug pattern. There are kits in the $500-600 range complete for D44-D35 and the Ford 9" 8.25 rear disc it is simple bolt-on proposition, don't know why you want the cost and aggravation of the D44 swap?

http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/4385838189.html This is the donor you want to look for.

This is funny........or I'm missing something???????? 4 strokes will be 180 degrees off every other revolution. One stroke is a compression stroke and one is an exhaust stroke. Two turns of the crank to every one turn of the cam.

Yeah, I need a man purse. BTW Cruiser, I carry too.

I love my air ratchet.

https://olesmoky.com/get-a-jar

I don't drink......... But shine is legal, sold in stores here in E TN. And can be shipped to you, any flavor you want.

Correct, about 70% of the braking is at the front. That said, again, its a system, fronts are not independent of rears. I made a proportioning rod mount that raised the rod up about 1 1/4" and that helped while running empty. When I'm loaded with about 600lbs I can feel a great difference in braking power, brakes come on as soon as I step on the petal, vs maybe 3/4" of an inch of travel when empty. That tells me the proportioning valve is still working. You are also correct about the soft lines expanding, if they expand by 10% you may have a braking loss exponentially by x2 or x3 at the petal....IOWs a 30% loss of braking power. My braking system has be completely replaced with exception of the proportioning valve. Sometimes all that's left is to start throwing parts at it. Keep screwing around with it.........rear-end someone at a stoplight........then you will no longer have to worry about throwing parts at it.

I have an 8" JBL that will rattle the doors off. I built a custom box that fit behind the passenger side of the Ranger I had in place of the jack. I have since built a new box to fit the Comanche that is not installed yet as I have not gotten to the interior of the truck yet. Bigger is not always better.

Cylinders are $10 each at O'Really's (sarcasm)

Yes, the front of mine and others I have worked on will squirt out if you don't put the cover on while bleeding manually.

That's probably the route I will go, got sticker shock though at the $500 quote from LineX. Better come with a kiss and a reacharound.

GOOD D30 3.55s are $100 here all day long.........all day tomorrow too. Wouldn't bother with it at all.

Sprayed on? Correct? I would not do the roll-on outside of the bed......rolled bedliner looks like crap in my not so humble opinion.