Jeep Driver

Now I see, thank you. So the bearing still needs to come off? And I assume you drill new holes for the mounting bolts?

Thank you. So, let me make certain I understand..... If the backing plate of the disc set is thinner, the bearing will have too much pressure/load at the race.....? To seat it correctly shims are used.....? Why can not just get some shim stock and make my own shims? When setting up a non-c from scratch how do you determine the pre-load?

Why wouldn't the knuckle interchange? The inner "C's" are the same as what's on a D30..... Later 2wd axles used unit bearings with stub shafts.......particularly 2wd Cherokees with ABS. :dunno: Comanchemodder: I have a 2wd axle with good spindles. PM me and we can discuss getting one to ya. :thumbsup: Brake calipers are different........it's completely different. If he wants a 2W axle he needs to find a later model 2W with the unit bearings.

Knuckle won't interchange. Swap the whole axle.

There is a thread ongoing regarding the D44 conversion which has me questioning the D35 conversion. What I have found, past and present, when doing a search is C-clip to C-clip conversion........straight forward enough. There are several ZJs at the PnP with D35 discs. Last week I inquired as to the cost of backing plate, e-cables, rotors, calipers................$80 But now I'm thinking about the thickness differences in the two plates, will this be a problem with a non C-clip axle? Thanks Yeah I know, I know........but I have decided that the D35 stays.

8 inches

There are some good vids on youtube. Walk you through the whole thing. Not something I look forward to.

Fuel pump resistor........ Did you check or replace the fuel pump relay? move the relays around.

One of my caliper bolts had snapped off at some point....>>>>>WTF? Image Not Found The u-joints were not Moog but Federals.....Precision. Image Not Found And these are only two years old.

I've had a rattle at the front suspension for about 6 months. Sounded like the UCA bushings were going bad so I replaced two of them, this time I got NAPA brand instead of Moog. The second one I replaced tonight since my Bilsteins came today and I was installing them anyway. BTW, what a b*@$£ that was. Anyhow, I'm installing the second shock on the front and I notice the u-joint is bad so I run to the parts store to get one, wrong size. Now I got to look at the passenger side, worse than the driver side. Completely gone, I would not have driven it again, could not believe they have not broken. I will have to wait till morning to get the two u-joints and replace both. Question is- Could the rattle I've heard have been the u-joints all this time? The ones I'm replacing are Moog and are less than 2 years old. I have replaced now just about every part on this truck twice and I have come to the conclusion the Moog SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!

Gunk original for the tough or first clean. Go to Dollar General and get the cleaner call Awesome, $1 per bottle and there is none better. You can't even buy a squirt bottle for $1.

Yeah, that's it.

7/8 I believe........22 or 23mm I'll need to measure more carefully........I could not find any poly bushings today at local parts stores. Also, not listed as a factory part in any books, so I'm thinking its an ADDCO part for factory performance suspension package. Not all Blazers and S10s have them.

Any given day....400 to 600lbs. The most I have carried was around 1300lbs. Concrete bags and tools.

Eyes for links are at 36" and the mounts on the axle are 18.5" apart. Thanks. :)

I only drove it a couple of miles. I can tell you this much....all the 'wiggle' feeling is GONE! and very flat on the turns.

No, I pulled off the 2004 WJ bar and brought it home......did not fit. At the PnP all bars are the same price so I just went and got a different bar........girl at the counter didn't know the difference.

As to the LWB- The mid 90s Camaro/Firebird has a similar set up but reversed. I could not use it because it is actually wider along axle and would run into the shocks, could not use it facing forward because of the fuel tank. However, for you LWB guys with shock fore of the axle it would work out fine facing the rear. The outside eyes for the links are at 39", the inside of the frame is at 40", with offset links it should work out perfect.

This is in reference to a current thread already existing here.

Flat plugs are $#!& and won't last more than a couple of years. If he was going to a more permanent 7 pin.........then I agree.

Any parts store or Walmart

Ground to frame, do not count on trailer being grounded at ball. Wire harness is near drivers tail light near spring shackle. Use electrical tape to wrap flat plug wire and connections, zip tie to bumper.

The problem you will have is combining the correct temp and the correct thread for your application. There are two styles of stat housings, the Renix 2.5 and the 4.0, study this pic, does yours look like this? Image Not Found