Jeep Driver

I just discovered that the Frontier rear end come with a 4.09 ratio and a WMS width of 62.5 That would move the wheels out 1" in each direction for the rear. What are the chances I could get new axles for the Frontier with 5 on 4.5?

http://asheville.craigslist.org/pts/4279380966.html

I just replaced mine a week ago. NAPA Premium (brass) and Belden wires.........$30 Bet you'll have $6 in shipping.

I believe my PS pump is bolted to the intake. That maybe why.

Standing in front of the engine, the white bottle on the firewall to your left is the pressure bottle, where you would fill the radiator with coolant. Your radiator has no fill neck. What I would do........ Pull the radiator out, flush with water, flush from both ends, turn it upside down......whatever it takes to get the residue out. Stuff a water hose into the lower hose leading to the water pump, use a rag to somewhat seal the hose to the radiator hose. Keep your hands out of the belt, have someone start the engine.......use the water from the garden hose to force flush the engine block. That's what I'd do......have done.........somewhat unconventional......but then.......... Every radiator has a petcock on the bottom........nothing more than a drain valve, you can't miss it.

I would suggest to you that either you have a ton of blow-by........check compression. or...you have a bunch of muck that is restricting oil return to the pan.......IOWs your oil in remaining on the top of the head.... or.....your vacuum line is clogged or broken an you are not getting any positive crank case ventilation.

Run the front line to the intake, the smaller line runs to a vacuum port. Change out the valve cover gasket. Image Not Found

If it were me............ I'd consider the overall condition and information from the previous owner.......did the truck run? did it not run when parked? Why? or Why not? Secondly, if the truck ran....... I'd pull the fuel tank and clean it, reinstall, disconnect fuel line from injector/carb, fresh fuel (1-2 gallons) and run the line out into a bucket until clear. Reinstall the fuel line. See if engine fires......if so.......do not run.....just see if it turns over and fires. If so......change oil and filter. Radiator/coolant........ Start engine, open petcock and let existing coolant begin to run out. Insert garden hose at radiator neck, turn on water beyond a drip......1-2 gallons per minute. Let engine run at idle for 20 minutes or so, allow coolant to cycle several times. At this point you can close radiator and run a flush if you like......if water is clear.........I probably would not. Begin again with about 6 gallons of distilled water.......allow to cycle several times.......flushing out the city water for distilled water. Drain radiator, add 1 gallon anti-freeze, top off with distilled. Allow cooling system to pressurize, check for leaks. Check to insure that system is functioning and engine stays cool at idle.

Do you register the old tag? What makes the old tag valid?

How is it you are running a 30+ year old tag?

You pulled that off a 97+...........yes?

Single key came in later years. I don't think you can convert to single key with the older style ignition switch.

Yeah, that looks good. I miss the seats in my Ranger. I like the idea of a split bench.

That's why I said assume :thumbsup: . My father used to run in truck pulls and told me they would run different brand gears to get the front spinning faster then the rear. I was just wondering if it was common practice. also omix ada has a 4.09 4.10 and 4.11 for the 44. Granted some are reverse cut. and they also change for thick cut too. FWIW to ya....... What you are describing is crucial with 4WD tractors. Kubota recommends 0-5% front over rear. Our gearing is fixed but we can gain our percentage with tire RC. Our fronts do pull our rears, I'm at a positive 3.5% and mine runs perfect with no binding. Start binding on a tractor and things break.

Image Not Found If it is one of these, they come with a lifetime warranty. If you want a custom aluminum........send it out to have one made.........about $500.

Do you have a COMPLETE Renix XJ or MJ to model or use as an example? On mine.....going by memory........Fused link from alt to breaker......Fused link side of breaker to battery........other side of breaker to relay and ECU. IOWs the ECU is protected at the breaker. You cross the posts of the battery with a wrench and you will fry the ECU. Need to study first........then apply.

86 is the only year I have seen them.

You have two banks of relays at the PDC.....4 standard and 5 minis. If it were me, starting from scratch, I'd use the 4 standards where it counts........I'd wire the head lamps off the starter relay, as already stated....redundant and pointless. The auto shut off will also not be used.........there, maybe off road lights or other. I'd have two looms off the firewall.............power and controls out to PDC, and then power and grounds and sensor info coming in.

Did you email me? I responded to an email but I don't know if it was you. Priority box will be about $10. I'll take it........email me with addy and I'll send.

How much do you want for them?

I'm waiting to see if these have come available yet, the state needed a pre order of 1000. Any thoughts? You guys running specialty plates?

That's what I'm running now......31s $650 for the set and that was a bargain. I had Silent Armors, best tires I ever owned, but the 31s would have been over $1K.

Casually looking for a pair of wheel spacers to put Jeep wheels on my trailer. Thanks jeepmurphy@gmail.com

Yeah, I know, but it is my DD. The historic tags restrict the use of the truck. I know people who have ignored it and drive them regularly. I also know people who have been stopped and told to re-register the tags. I just got an 84 CJ7 that I will register historic. BTW - Have I seen you driving around here? My tags are due next month. I went to the state website yesterday to see what the requirement is for antique tags in TN, you are right, driving is restricted to weekends and events. Antique tags are one time fee, that's why the restriction, permanent tag. In TN there is a second option, they will issue 'vintage' tags up to year '88.....may want to look at that.

Cool, thanks.