Jeep Driver

If I had $400 to drop on a 2.5 header today, it would be Banks. Yours will price about $440 new. Offer him $200.

I no longer want my backup lights hanging down from my bumper. I'm considering LED mini bars and I want them hinged and to swing down when in reverse. I'm thinking about a micro linear actuator or a vacuum motor or a lock actuator. The only thing I have not figured out yet is how to get two functions out of one signal from the reverse switch. The axle CAD system......what switches are used? how does the motor function? push....pull......spring action? how is the vacuum controlled......two function switch?......vacuum valve? Any ideas? Thanks.

http://mudflaps.com/i-8957341-bilstein-24-002608-4600-series-shock.html I ordered yesterday a full set. Absolute cheapest I found anywhere on the net, $244 to my door, no shipping charge. I was going to order from my4by.com but they were late getting back to me, did not answer their phone, and charged for shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1996-Jeep-Cherokee-5-Speed-Shift-Knob-New-OEM-SHIFTER-/370990534928?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item5660c25110&vxp=mtr

Look for a donor with and automatic. AX5? you have a 2.5? You also need to buy a heavy duty trailer.......you'll need something to haul around all that regret.

There is a valve at the firewall where your heater hoses enter, make sure the vacuum line is attached to the valve. Or it could be the blend door is not closing allowing cold air in instead of hot air.

Well......could just be that your master has failed, coincidence? I suppose.

Nobody touches my brakes but me. I'd be looking to kick someone's @$$.

Chew on this- http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/4262024710.html

At that price.......better come with a reach-around and a kiss.

I'd give the seller I bought from a BIG ++1 if there was a way to do it.

I just replaced my MAP and the elbow remained on the intake stub and I just pulled the MAP straight up. The elbow seemed tight over the stub, did not want to just slide off, the MAP went back on the elbow with the feeling like it 'plugged' in.

I'm now running a 180 stat, does not get nearly as hot inside as it did with the 195........but engine temp is now constant.

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+diagram+for+87+comanche&client=ubuntu&hs=OYD&channel=fs&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=2dj4UoWcHoOTyQHEz4GQAQ&ved=0CCkQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=831 What are you working on?

And tell me how you like your ride. I had Bilsteins on my Ranger but it might be apple to oranges comparison......I just don't what to be disappointed I guess.

It's Hornbrod mate. But I've been called worse. :yes: Sorry, don't know why that's what I see every time you post. What does Hornbrod mean?

If you would post the part #s I'd appreciate it. I have a feeling he stocks the CJs and they may be close. Yeah, stock hight for me. Thanks.

Getting ready to order a set of BIlsteins 4600 series. The site that I want to order from lists the rears as- bil-24-002608 According to another site those fit- 1959-1983 Jeep CJ5 - Base - USA 1975-1983 Jeep CJ5 - Renegade - USA 1977-1980 Jeep CJ5 - GoldenEagle - USA 1980-1983 Jeep CJ5 - Laredo - USA 1982-1983 Jeep CJ5 - Limited - USA 1959-1975 Jeep CJ6 - Base - USA 1959-1975 Jeep CJ6 - Base 1976-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Base - USA 1976-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Renegade - USA 1977-1979 Jeep CJ7 - GoldenEagle - USA 1977-1979 Jeep CJ7 - GoldenEagle 1980 Jeep CJ7 - GoldenHawk 1980 Jeep CJ7 - GoldenHawk - USA 1982-1983 Jeep CJ7 - Limited - USA 1982-1983 Jeep CJ7 - Limited 1976-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Renegade 1980-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Laredo 1976-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Base 1980-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Laredo - USA 1966-1974 Jeep DJ5 - Base - USA 1965-1983 Jeep DJ5 - Base 1966-1968 Jeep DJ6 - Base - USA 1965-1968 Jeep DJ6 - Base - See more at: http://www.stillen.com/product/shocks/4600-series-shock--46mm-monotube-shock-rear-5983-jeep-cj5-596075-cj6-7686-cj7-6674-dj5-6668-dj6-93843.html#sthash.mx0qrBPw.dpuf And according to Hornbird's list- What do you guys think?

Seal press. Behind the washer to the left and the socket to the right are your inner seals. Turn the nuts on the threaded rod out and you seat the seals in both directions. I have mine on my bench, been there for almost two years......This summer, when I find time.

Damn Canooks

The 200amp alt provides 105amp at idle........no need to idle up while using winch or other accessories. Dual battery self recovery is really to give yourself a jump.......also if you are using something with a high amp draw you can isolate it to your recovery battery and not draw down your primary, possibly leaving you double stranded.........in a hole and with a dead battery. My take.....if you can afford a $800 winch you can afford a second battery and a high output alt........about $350. Edit: If you can afford a $500 bumper for a $800 winch..........you should be able to afford to feed your winch.

Heat riser............worthless........remove it and don't worry about it.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/41263-prestone-warning-plz-read/

There is another member here with a 2.5 that lives near you, he lost his head about 6 weeks ago do to freezing.