Jeep Driver

Wow, that's nice.

Something went terribly wrong here. You cannot cut the input shaft. Your transmission is destined to fail .

I just get a guiltless day off.

Well, there's your adapter. Go for it.

Well.......that's not the way to look at the question. All automakers produced straight sixes well into the 80s with single barrel carbs, CI equivalent to 4.0L. 2.5's TBI is nothing more than a modern single barrel electronically controlled carb. Will the 2.5 ECU recognize the Renix 4.0 flywheel? IDK but probably. How it will, if it will, control ignition is anyone's guess? You can always go with a stand alone ignition/distributor. Will it run? Eh, probably. Injectors are interchangeable with any GM 90s TBI, you'd have to do your homework (injector flow rates) but I suspect you'd be better off adapting a GM 2 barrel rather than a single. I'm all for ingenuity, out of the box thinking.......however.........spend your energies elsewhere. This one is a dead end road. FWIW, TBI is the way to go over MPI, but performance TBI, not this crap.

Couple of things here- There is no ballast resister on the 2.5 MJs. If you turn the key to run, fuel pump only primes for 2-3 seconds, by the time you get meter to the wires there will be no voltage present. Voltage will not return until key is in the start position, pump will continue to run only if the engine starts. IOWs pump is not continuously running just because you turn key to run. Also, in this case a multi-meter will not tell you the whole story. Lets assume you did show battery voltage of 12.5v, the wire may show voltage but will not carry a load. You need a test light. Connection for that section of harness is in the drivers kick, between door jamb and parking brake mechanism. Problem may be at connection in kick, or at fuel pump relay, or one of your fused links fried.......or you have a frayed wired somewhere.

All years are interchangeable.

I have rear discs, no prop valve, brakes are perfect.

In my case- My wheels have both patterns. My rotors have both patterns. From what I've read in the past, the WJ hub unit is the same as the MJ expect bolt pattern. Spacer had to do with WJ knuckle, not bearing. Cost of conversion is $0 on the front assuming you need new bearings anyway. Redrilling the rotor is a no-brainer. Rear- In my case- Chrysler 8.25. Dutchman stock replacement shafts, custom pattern, with studs, 25% stronger than stock, $290, dirt cheap. https://dutchmanaxles.com/jeep-stock-replacement-axle-c-clip-single.html If you have, and you should, no reason not to, KJ rear discs, again, redrill your rotors. If I'm not mistaken, there are aftermarket rotors available with multi-pattern. I could, I might. One reason one might consider this- aftermarket wheels with 4.5 on 5 pattern are becoming limited. You might find a wheel you like, width, diameter, offset/BSing, that is not offered in stock pattern but is offered in a 5 on 5 pattern. None of this applies to the OP, I'm sure, but answers the question.

Yes, of course.

Good to see you are going to get home. I had no way of offering help here last night. Some people are evil, as you know.

Like a crank or a cam in block........... That head was line bored, those caps are trued to the head. You cannot mix them, you cannot turn the caps, you cannot swap with other caps. Those caps need to go back on precisely the way they came off.

Agreed. I would also suggest your toe changed ever so slightly also......just enough.

If you took a bare wheel, laid it down, upside down, placed a straight edge across the rim of the wheel, measured from the bottom of the straight edge to the mounting surface (hub), this is your BSing. Offset is the + or - of the center of the wheel relative to the WMS (wheel mount surface). BS and offset really have nothing to do with each other. 5.25" BS is standard for almost every MJ/XJ wheel. + or - .25 makes little difference. BS is BS regardless of wheel width, 7" or 8". A 10" wheel actually measures 11" in width, .5" difference in nominal vs actual per side of center. Even more the reason not to confuse BS with offset. 5.25 being a known BSing, it's a good benchmark by which to choose an aftermarket wheel. In my case, my wheels have a 5" BS, given the size of tire, this is a perfect fit.

5.25

https://www.safetyrestore.com/about-us

I cannot speak to Autometer, however, Speedhut is fully programmable. Doesn't matter what sender or how accurate it is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Knuckle-Spindle-Wrangler-TJ-DANA-30-Front-Left-Hand-Side-Bolt-On-Style/362449860096?hash=item5463b1f600:g:g-EAAOSwOwpbtQ1-:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!37843!US!-1

I merely pointed in a direction. There are several 'big brake' directions you can take....ie....Cobra Marty. If you ever want the option........those are the only knuckles which give you options, aside from the Vanco knuckle or going the WJ route which is another direction altogether. Since you don't want options........those knuckles are worth good money, not here, elsewhere.

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch?year=1988&make=Jeep&model=Cherokee&option=4+X+4+Only

$250 for a pair of high-end driving/off-road/aux lights is dirt cheap, not crazy expensive. Ebay lights do not come with a lifetime warranty. There is no comparison. Quality/quantity of usable light, quality of housing/finish, quality of lens, quality of appearance. There are three companies worthy of consideration, JW Speaker, VisionX, Baja Designs. I'm choosing VisionX Light Cannons, usable light to 3/4 of a mile, there is nothing on the market that is advertised to reach that distance. Lifetime warranty. I've learned my lesson, choose wisely, buy once.

If you are seeking high quality auxiliary lighting- https://headlightrevolution.com/jw-speaker-model-ts4000-12-24v-7-round-black-high-beam-pedestal-mount-auxiliary-2-light-kit/ Those would be very nice as a bumper mount light, particularly on an aftermarket bumper. This is a really good deal, half price of some retailers and this is the next best price- https://www.quadratec.com/p/jw-speaker/7-round-led-auxiliary-lights-model-ts4000 I would definitely be chasing this if I were not going in a different direction. I can attest to the quality of JW Speaker, first rate.

FWIW- The only way I'll go LS- http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1905-dialing-in-holleys-terminator-stealth-efi-on-an-ls-engine