Jeep Driver

OP- 8.75s and 9.75s in my locale are hard to come by and the couple that I found were $350. I never did find the correct width either and the one that I measured was 63" hub to hub, which might have been OK. But when I figured re-gear and other costs...........screw it.

There is a late model Camaro pan that has a zero clearance front portion of the pan......search for it.

MAP sensor.

Get a CPS for a 91

Very nice!

Well........yeah.......guess that's one way to swap a dash out. :P

This really isn't the way I envisioned starting my non-build build thread, however, I'm so excited with my accomplishment this weekend that I have to start here first. I'm in the middle of an engine build and I'm taking my time with it, I really want it to look like I did. As with all our inline engines half the head bolts are exposed and I wanted mine to appear finished, zinc electro plating. I also plated my header washers and dist clamp and dampener washer. Link to instructions are here- http://home.comcast.net/~rt66tbird/website/zincplating.html Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found More pics upcoming as build proceeds.

Ahhhh.......... I'd start from scratch. New rotors, calipers, pads, bolts. And no, the rotors have nothing to do with the bearing units.

I cannot tell you how many times I have done the same.....passed up what I wanted for one reason or the other. The 'I'll get it later' or 'another one will come along'........never seems to happen. If you want it....get it now.

You'll need a steering wheel puller.......look to OReily to borrow one. You may get lucky, the wheel may be loose enough on the shaft to pull it off.....but.......leave the nut on the end of the shaft while you smack the back of the wheel or you'll get a fat lip.

Also, what is that which looks to be a sight hole just below the degree marks?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/timing-cover-6-cylinder-258-or-232-engine-53005769.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=productfeed&utm_campaign=cse&gclid=Cj0KEQjw8aeiBRCknPXk-u_V_4gBEiQAD2-mgaKPrA8VW7vENECB-N3buKDjyFaSh8Ay-3rA76Wa4WMaArI98P8HAQ http://www.carid.com/1987-jeep-comanche-engine-components/omix-ada-timing-components-4503858.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw8aeiBRCknPXk-u_V_4gBEiQAD2-mgTkbK9jbcNPDuhrK-8tJFBnPyVfZJvEUSisxS-ofqdsaAjZy8P8HAQ I intended to use the cover off the 98 block for my build until last night when I realized that the bolt holes are different for mounting the accessories, mainly the alt. The AMC cover has lugs built into the cover for the alt mount whereas the MPI cover does not. Which makes sense because all the accessories on the 98 are mounted differently and use different pulleys and dampener. The above two links link to the same part number and indicate that the cover can be used on multiple engines from 65 to 90, all 4s and 6s. Any of you bought this cover for your pre 90 4 or 6cyl? Thanks

MAP sensor. Just my guess.

BTW- Every PnP DS is damaged from the fork lift. I searched better salvage and was quoted $60-70...IIRC for a DS of my choice. Shop wanted $55 to shorten. THEN- you still have to replace u-joints. You could still end up with $180 or so in a USED rusty DS..........why?

I had a new one built. I took him my trans yoke and shop built me a new one with Spicer joints for $225

That was not available when I was looking.

And what Hornbrod is point out to you is the tabs at the end of the cable that convert the cable to disc cables. The tabs are $35.

They are something like 52".........I'd have to look it up........I have replaced my stock cables with Raybestos cables when I had the D35........they are long. The ZJ cables are something like 42 inches........and are already too short.

I just bought mine two months ago and they are readily available, still have the bags they came in if you want part numbers. Drivers side is a stretch..........unless you know something I don't...........

Get two of the passenger side, the drivers side is shorter by an inch or two and is slightly different.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm I recommend that you save a few more dollars somehow and replace the full spring. New bolts will run you about $45 Find a good shop, a small mom and pop shop, to swap your springs out. If you walk up with all your parts.....you might get by for about $150 labor. That will put you at about $600........then put it behind you and forget about it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-TH20-Cadillac-Jeep-Eagle-82-9-/110328488272?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19b0172150&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Cadillac-Jeep-17078259-GM-/131188450876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8b70e63c&vxp=mtr

It's here. It appears to be well made, fairly more heavy than I expected. I was surprised to see that the #1 and #4 tube is pieced in, unlike the pic off AFE's website and other ads. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found This pic does not do the '68 Chrysler metallic blue justice. Image Not Found

Just my opinion- Unless you are going to port and polish your head, remap, tune your injectors, upgrade your exhaust, cam and cam timing, choose intake and polish runners.......etc........ IOWs you may well increase flow at the TB only to choke it up at the head or exhaust.......to lean it out if you do not alter fuel........then what is the point? Further- I'd rather look for grunt- Torque. Who runs the 4.0s or 2.5s at 5000rpm anyway?