Jeep Driver

mikejenn2 has you covered. I would most definitely replace the rear u-joint at this point.......if not both.

Not so good on the 2.5. I moved mine from the MJ to the XJ........much more throaty on the 4.0

Very generous.

http://lynchburg.craigslist.org/pts/4655428446.html

He may be right. I just searched all of VA and not one listing on CL for a 3.4 but 4.3s out the wazoo. Go looking for a good 2.5......not local........not cheap........hen's teeth.

Ebrakes got stuck. Did it pop at any point?

Yes, I have one on the 97XJ. Sounds real nice.

Myself and one or two others here suggested that you adjust your valves by 'feel' with the engine running. If you had done so and still could not get them to adjust and maintain an adjustment........that is an indicator. At that point you need to stop and rethink what it going on. You stated that you had no way of measuring oil pressure.......why? For $15 you could buy Sunpro mechanical gauge and mount it in the engine bay......that would have told you that you were about to experience catastrophic failure......and you have. The reason you could not get your valves to adjust is 0 oil pressure. A new hi-volume pump may have gotten you another year out of the engine....little late now. I would NOT get another JY engine. I would look for a RUNNING S10 or Blazer or Camaro as a donor. RUNNING! maybe a rust bucket or a wreck or one with a bad trans. One that you can pick up for $800 or so, pull the engine and scrap the rest, you'll get $350-400 for the scrap. This also allows you to decide if you want to go EFI since the harness is in the donor.....you'll have a CHOICE, I like choices. While the engine is out, clean it up, install new seals and gaskets. Pull the oil pan and clean it out. New oil pump, new water pump......etc........new plugs and wires......and so on..... Think your way through this one this time.....or........you will repeat failure again.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/51103_501.htm Yes, I've looked at the YT............$100 more.

From what I just read........ The 3.4 is a 60 degree engine while the 4.3 is a 90 degree engine. The 4.3 with a TH350 trans out of a Blazer may be a good way to go.

Those of you who run the double roller timing set...... I see no tensioner specific to the double roller, just use a standard tensioner? Also, who's running roller rockers? Which ones? pros and cons of a particular brand? I'm considering these- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s40196/overview/make/jeep Thanks.

Well, I bought my truck 2.5 years ago and then the engine only had 5K miles on it. I've alway had a problem with blow-by oil getting into the air box and with the VC leaking oil. I swapped the VC to aluminum and then developed a rear main seal leak so I put a new main seal in and new pan gasket.....etc.....rear main continues to leaks due to overpressure of the crank case. The point is I've been chasing round not realizing that I had severe blow-by and loss of compression. I now have 60K miles on it. Supposedly the PO had the engine 'professionally' built........thus my disbelief that I was suffering engine failure. Now I'm doing the work and I'm spending the money. Who knows what the builder did or did not do. But I will not go halfassed this time.

If it got wet as you say.............you will not just get by with a hone and re-ring.........bore is pitted.

BTW, do your homework, for example- Originally I intended to use Total Seal rings, $180 for the set for the 2.5. A local drag racer told me to look into Hastings rings, so I called everywhere looking for a dealer that carried Hastings, none do. I called Hastings and I've decided to order directly from them for $63 plus shipping. Come to find out, Hastings supplies Total Seal, TS uses a third oil ring in combination with the second compression ring to make up their set. Hastings does not recommend what TS does but they do supply them. But then, I dig and dig and dig until I'm satisfied with my decisions.

I'm in the midst of a build now, in fact I got the call from the machinist today to inform me of main and cap bearing sizes to order. You are going to spend some money and it won't be cheap, half measures will cost you in the long run. I've looked all of the 'kits' and none where to my liking, I want to choose the parts I'm using.

No. Mine has a manufacture date stamped on the carrier.

A bad battery with a dead cell is like a black hole and will suck the life out of everything you got.

Couple of months ago there was a seller local to me on CL selling both sides for a ZJ that he sold and he no longer had use for the CV shafts. He was asking $150 and I considered jumping on it but never got around to getting together with him, glad I did not. Some of us look to swap parts any way we can that were intended for other vehicles. In fact I think Hornbrod has a thread asking us to list parts swapped from other vehicles. To answer your question.........Most folks just don't know they can. If I was not building a new engine, I'd probably get a set.....maybe in the future.

Unless I'm all wet here.............. rockauto, 97 Grand, axle half shafts..........either side........under $40.

Item Price Qty Subtotal Seal Kit, Oil Filter Adapter 4.0L 1992-1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ Part # 4720363 $1.99 Remove item $1.99 Use a Promo Code or Morris Giftcard Subtotal : $1.99Shipping & Handling (Ground): $4.99Grand Total: $6.98 ----------------------------------------- That's the one I need but I refuse to pay more for shipping than the actual part.

Straight pipe all the way out to the rear will give more back-pressure than you think. Those who run no cat and a cherry bomb that dumps before the axle run with LESS back-pressure.

Find me a nice pair of 97up doors and you can have mine, I hate them.

Well, if it's not that one, it's the other one. Likely the 1" Do yourself a favor and go to NAPA and get the right one, LUK should be around $95, mine was. If there are options and you don't' know the definitive part, do not order from rockauto, it'll cost you.

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot). The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing. Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps and there lies a problem, i don't have the jeep flywheel, i believe i have the flywheel out of a 93 sonoma, and the engine i'm usin from that sonoma didn't have the spot for a mechanical fuel pump so i already got an electric one :thumbsup: Redwolf You don't even know what engine you have. The Sonoma came with the 4.3