Jeep Driver

Maybe you don't understand? It does not matter what you had done TEN YEARS AGO! All of your seals have gone to rot.

And........ I'll bet the rest of your seals and gaskets won't last much longer either.

Yep, valve seals. And I'll bet your rings never really seated like they should. You should have tore it down and gone through it again. Bagging and new engine and letting it set for 10 years was a big mistake.

Ahhhhhhhhhh..................National is a name brand........Federal-Mogal.

Failed ground somewhere is my guess.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Jeep-Gear-Shift-Boot-XJ-Cherokee-MJ-Comanche-CJ-7-8-Scrambler-YJ-Wrangler-/231329782891?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35dc545c6b&vxp=mtr

Good score. I've been seriously looking for 97+ SE manual doors for better than a year now, apparently impossible to find. If I go the route of power window/locks, I plan to use a 12v source and work out the wiring before I install the doors, making up a harness to the doors and across the doors before installation. Yeah, may take me a few hours of trial and error but I'll get it figured out.

I realize that you are getting into your cold months........that said....... 5W30 is too light for a 20+ year old engine with 200K miles on it. Just my opinion.

In my 32 years of driving and working on cars/trucks I have never personally known anyone who's TC went bad. If you are wanting to change your stall speed.....to what and why? At 1100 rpm you better have some balls in the lower end, and then it will want to crawl out from under your brakes. Anything over 2200 rpm you will be at 3000rmp coming out of 1st gear.

I know on mine (2.5) there is a breaker and at least one fused link. I'd check the wiring off the battery and the alt with a test light to make sure there is power supplied to the relays. I know you say it runs when you jump the starter, power is getting to the fuel pump and ignition.........I'd still check though.

Is this the auto or the 5 speed?

$5,500 http://tricities.craigslist.org/pts/4639194241.html

Then your pump is shot......you're about 30lbs short of what is needed.

So, you are looking to sink at least $7K into a $50 truck.....did I read that correctly?

Since you replaced the vacuum line to the regulator, I assume you went to the MPI 2.5? TBI 2.5 requires 14-15lbs pressure and the MPI requires 49lbs (IRRC?) Which pump did you use? The MPI or carbed filter will flow....not worried about that.......but I would not trust the low pressure hosed and clamps at 50lbs.

Is it that simple? I see this thread going to at least 8 pages............. Some folks are not teachable.

Sorry, I meant $101.99 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-260-1233

The expense in the head gaskets, I would not order the 'set'. Get a pan and timing set gasket along with VCs and intake.........cost you $30 instead of $90.

A u-bolt for a 2.5 tube will be over sized to fit the tube.......>IOWs you do not order an over sized bolt.

I live here........and I missed it.

You silicone the spline anyway and the silicone will ooze out around the back the nut and once it sets up.......ain't going anywhere anyway. I've reused mine.

Yeah, the fitting is a restrictor and is important. Try the dealer or you can make one by sweating in a smaller tube inside the fitting.

You let your woman drive your truck, big mistake......... :laughin:

Press....or....C-camp........or hammer and socket.......or........ If you have another vehicle you can take the DS and your new U-joints to any good trans shop and they could fix you up for about $30......I'm guessing.

My replacement is for a 84 Caddy as they are not listed for the Comanche anymore. Many GM vehicles used the same idle controller.