Jeep Driver

You need to post pics........or should we just guess? If you are referring to the wires that send the pulse to the injector...? yes there is a tube around the wires, like a heat shrink tube? is this what you are talking about?

Aftermarket TBI will cost you $2K. Or you will have to get a stand alone GM ignition......I have no idea what GM used for CPS. Weber carbs are $380 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/201221464842?lpid=82

I'm too old for resonance bull$#!&. I had this system installed about a year ago, regretfully. As soon as I get my new engine installed I'm going to have this replaced with what I wanted to start with. Two pipes from the xmember to two mufflers right at the rear bumper. Image Not Found

Your paint code is on the badge on the firewall near the brake master cylinder. Should be a two letter code....mine is CW for the color Coffee.

You'll also need a master and line....for the money and time......just get the complete unit for about $180 and bolt it on.....it's already bled. You'll need a drive shaft too. And a speedo cable. Trans mount?

https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=1986+jeep+external+slave&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=1986+jeep+external+clutch+slave&channel=fs&tbm=shop Just a suggestion- remove your line and take it to NAPA or a hydraulic shop and have them make you a new stainless braided line......might cost you $40 or so but that will be the next thing to go. Also, there should be a bleed screw on your slave, you need to bleed it after you replace it.

What you need is an external SLAVE, that is what you will ask for. 86 is different than what is posted above but the same principle. Any auto parts store will be able to order it for you.

I'll chime in with others........>>>DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION> The 4cyl are the only one that have a one piece seal behind the fly wheel and require trans removal. Find a new buddy.

It will handle your jon boat just fine. I pull 3K lbs with mine......up hill.

And definitely keep the valve cover on the 2000 and throw that plastic POS away.

I'd like to use as much of the 2000 as possible but I'm not opposed to using the older parts. So just to make sure I understand everyone correctly... the 2000 engine will go in and run? Ive done an engine swap before where everything bolted on but the sensors were moved.. and it wouldn't start. I'd rather not have to do that again You are going to have to remove EVERYTHING from your 86 and move it over to your 2000........this may include your timing cover and oil pan and oil pickup.....intake.......sensors..........etc.......even the engine mount brackets are different. All you are swapping is the block and head........if you are going to keep your Renix system......this is ignition, TBI, wiring...etc. You will also need to retain your fly wheel from the 86....it will all move over to the 2000.

You'll have to decide which era accessories you'll want to use, the '86 and '00 will not mingle. Alt, pulleys, PS.......etc.....timing covers are different and so forth.

There is a specific tool for it that I don't have, naturally, so I just used a magnet.

To answer your question directly- From 84 to 02 the block and head and internals are all exactly the same. This one will be a hybrid of sorts- '98 block and head- Image Not Found

I took my lifters out and new ones in with the head on. Chances are his cam is worn anyway.

As stated in title. These are for a Wrangler and I need a set for MJ XJ jeepmurphy@gmail.com

Looks like this- http://www.1aauto.com/jeep-neutral-safety-switch/i/1azns00006?f=493428&y=1990&utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=ZNS&gclid=CjwKEAiA1-CjBRDOhIr_-vPDvQYSJAB48SmEiK8vs9aTEGpXys848xn3f_RQna3v3oEZLoUElBuh5BoCfmvw_wcB There is a write up here somewhere on it.....I'm sure.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-88-89-90-COMANCHE-ENGINE-ECM-ELEC-CONT-UNIT-ECU-4-150-2-5L-MT-109514-/351204076698?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item51c564ec9a&vxp=mtr

If it's an auto it's a part of the NSS......neutral safety switch. You need to take it apart and clean it.

Precisely. Even if he had to pay $2-300 for a body shop to professionally cut and patch his firewall for clearance......that's a hell of a lot less work and hassle than chopping out rails and floor pans..etc......and moving it to the rust bucket. I just question the thought processes of some................

Image Not Found I'll need to order the 90 elbow and this should take me right to the rad support. I will also need to make up two adapter plates for the carb hat at the TB and a means to mount the carb hat. Image Not Found And looky what the brown dog dragged home- Image Not Found

use Control V to paste here.

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Maybe this will help? http://betanews.com/2013/01/10/you-can-remove-adobe-flash-from-windows-here's-how/

For $#!&s and giggles- Image Not Found Yesterday while reading this thread and posting that you reread my post, I took this pic with my phone. Ambient temp was 49 degrees, truck was at idle for better than 20 minutes with heater on as I was taking a break from work. The E-fan NEVER came on. I do NOT have a mechanical fan. If you have an air pocket in your head you would get an overheat after about 3 minutes at idle, you would never make it to 'city driving'. You have a no-flow condition. Either your rad is completely clogged, your water pump is the wrong rotation, or you T-stat is bad. It's that freakn' simple. If you had a blow head gasket it would show itself in other ways, miss, white steam/smoke, loss of power.....etc..... I have gone through several....4 or 5 stats that failed, ran hot or temp fluctuated wildly. Stant absolutely SUCK!!!!!! Either your rad is clogged or your stat SUCKS, change it.