Jeep Driver

I'll take a chance and read sarcasm into the "thanks for the help" since you dismissed my comment. I did not piss $3000 down the drain on my own 2.5 before gathering as much information as I can about the 2.5 over the last couple of years. Very few of us put any time, effort, money, into the 2.5, as a result, there is scarce information and performance parts. Most guys will tell you that the 2.5 is a 4.0 with the middle two cylinders removed, not true, the 2.5 came first and the 4.0 was designed after and out of the 2.5, look it up. Besides the obvious differences, the 2.5 and 4.0 share many of the same parts- water pump, oil pump, water necks, timing cover, timing set, head bolts, push rods, valves, lifters, springs, pistons, rods............etc........ On the later MPI 2.5s, it shared much of the same....injectors, throttle body, sensors such as CPS and TPS........etc...... If raising the compression to 10:1 were the answer to the 4.0 performance, then every MJ and XJ owner here would be off to the races. There are several Stroker guys here and many more elsewhere, balancing performance and reliability seems to the common issue among them. I have yet to see anyone successfully supercharge or turbo charge a 2.5 and brag about their success. Apparently a few 4.0 guys have but I have yet to read anything about reliability as a daily driver....bear in mind that you will be in the $6000 neighborhood going supercharged. The most common failure of the 4.0 is head gasket failure, just based on what I have read over over the last 3 years, ads for XJs and MJs for sale....common thread........head gasket, maybe 80% or more. The biggest hurdle you will experience is electrical, getting a Renix 2.5 or 4.0 to run well...electrical, and you need to go through every bit of it. Money and TIME, hope you got both. The greatest hurdle you will have to 2.5 performance.....air flow.........>NOT compression. You have entered the world of Jeep, and you've got a lot to learn yet.

I think the leverage on each stud would be less by using ten shorter studs then 5 long studs. In drag racing the long studs are required for visual inspection reasons. The studs sticking through an open nut shows instantly that the studs are present and are at least engaged the minimum amount. In that manner the leverage on the long stud is no greater than on a short stud as the nut still secures the wheel at the same distance from the base of the stud. That is the fulcrum of the leverage and again it is not changed when used in the prescribed manner. Mounting the lugs further out would increase the leverage. Especially as the hole in the spacer is wider than the stud and the stud would be unsupported for the width of the spacer where that does not occur in either the stock configuration or using ten studs as you do with spacers. You would be more likely to shear studs by using the longer studs for that reason. Look below: the space between the black mounting surface and blue lug nut is unsupported stud in each example. The first two examples keep the stock unsupported length of any given stud while the longer stud from example three creates a much, much longer unsupported area and an increase in leverage. The increase in leverage would make it more likely to break the stud. IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock configuration) IIIIIIII mounting surface spacer lug nut IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock with spacer) IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII mounting surface wheel spacer lug nut (long lug nut) I am not saying that breaking a stud in the last example is guaranteed, just that to some degree it is more likely than the other examples. Common among racers......look it up. Also, I'd bolt the spacer on the hub with long studs and then bolt the wheel onto the the long stud........stud will not stress.

I'm trying to find prices......you can look around. Not really sure where you want to take your son's MJ but so far you are talking about spending some money.

GM metric pattern Also called the GM small corporate pattern and the S10 pattern This pattern has a distinctive odd-sided hexagonal shape. Rear wheel drive applications have the starter mounted on the right side of the block (when viewed from the flywheel) and on the opposite side of the block than front wheel drive. The 2.2l S10/Sonoma had the starter located in the same position as front wheel drive cars. A rear wheel drive bellhousing is displayed at right. GM 60-Degree 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.5/3.8/3.9 L V6 (also used by AMC) Buick 3300/3800 V6 Cadillac HT4100/4.5/4.9 L V8 Isuzu 3.5L DOHC V6 AMC/Chrysler 2.5L I4 found in Jeep Cherokee, Comanche, Wagoneer, CJ and Wrangler and Dodge Dakota GM Iron Duke/Tech-4 2.5L I4 GM "122" 1.8/2.0/2.2 L I4 GM 5.3L LS4 V8 GM 3.5L LX5 "Short Star" V6 You will not have a CPS mount, you could go aftermarket for $$$$. Hesco makes one for the dampener on the 4.0, not sure about the 2.5....probably not.

You can always go with racing studs, 2" or 2.5" or whatever is required. Straight through the spacer to the wheel. I considered this and may still if I ever have to pull the axles again.

I used a Hurst shifter in the past but you can probably pick up a used B&M floor shifter cheap and make up your own cable. I wouldn't bother with a column shifter but that's me.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h823cp30/applications/make/jeep?prefilter=1 Stick to the ASE and not the Metric, better oil control. You can likely pick up some compression by shaving the decks, talk to your machinist, this will also cost you about $100 in custom length push rods. Also discuss with him, air flow, cam and valve timing.

Go here- http://comancheclub.com/topic/44902-po-boys-88/ No, I do not agree, simply increasing compression alone will do anything but cause you to increase your fuel costs by going to higher octane.

Eating bearing is pure BS. As for them being safer or not? No less safer than buying cheap POS aftermarket wheels.....both are aluminum, both act as a wheel center/hub.

The ones you listed are not for the AMC 2.5 that you have.....these are for the GM version of the 2.5, not the 84 up AMC/Chrysler.

I do not like the look of the factory bumper. Fey would have been OK but...$250 with brackets and this would not have solved my receiver hitch needs. Completely utilitarian, and you won't' find me in the herd of sheeple......so.......and god help the poor sap that tags my rear at a stop light... :P Image Not Found Image Not Found

Here is your $20 solution- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Water-Neck-bb-sb-Chevy-sbc-Outlet-Thermostat-Housing-Small-Big-Block-/201112505571

Fan switch in the radiator and temp sender in the intake. A T will not give accurate reading as coolant will not 'flow' through the T........and it will look like $#!&.

3x7x9/16 you can find them at American Trailer Supply for $40 with deep nuts and heavy washers, grade 8 rated at 7600lbs.

Just because the springs may carry the weight doesn't mean that axle will.

No, it's still the Wild Wild East round here. :)

Man you look familiar........ Where's the oil and temp??? That I could not live without. I intended to rebuild the 4cly that coming out of my MJ and look for a '85 XJ for the wife......we have a '97 now and I really want to replace it with a '85.....but now....... You've convince me, it'll be a SBC for the wife's yet to be found '85.

The vacuum lines and purge valve are long gone. There are two lines that come out of the tank to the TBI, supply and return. There is a third line, vent line, that comes out of the top of the tank that runs to a hard line that runs to the OE canister. I am cutting out that hard line and then plumbing the soft vent hose to the new canister. It just allows the tank to breath. I've been all over the net looking a what others have made up, coffee cans....paint cans......PVC pipe...etc..... I like to look around and see things that already exist for what they could be rather than what they are.

I got rid of my OE canister, beginning to prep the engine bay for the new engine. I used an A/C line muffler as a canister. I cut off the aluminum lines, drilled and tapped the lower for 3/8 and the upper for 1/4" fittings. I filled the canister about 90% full with activated carbon, I shook it with each fill to fill in around the baffles that are inside. I used bronze wool behind each fitting to filter the fittings from the activated carbon. I'll mount the canister on the bed support rail just behind the gas tank. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I got rid of my OE canister, beginning to prep the engine bay for the new engine. I used an A/C line muffler as a canister. I cut off the aluminum lines, drilled and tapped the lower for 3/8 and the upper for 1/4" fittings. I filled the canister about 90% full with activated carbon, I shook it with each fill to fill in around the baffles that are inside. I used bronze wool behind each fitting to filter the fittings from the activated carbon. I'll mount the canister on the bed support rail just behind the gas tank. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

My 88 has one on the left front fender ( viewed from the drivers seat) why would his 89 not have one unless someone already removed it? Do you have a 4.0 or a 2.5? I have yet to see a 2.5 with one.....nor does mine.

http://cowlesproducts.com/protektotrim/pt_trucks-suv-molding/ Choose a style you like and replace all of it. It's self-adhesive and even if you found someone's 20 year old stash, I doubt it would be any good anyway...wouldn't stick for long, if at all.

You'll be looking for a long long time. It doesn't have one. Our pumps only put out 15lbs and I suspect that's why . Check your grounds, fuel pump relay, or the fuel pump itself.

BTW, OP, Do what ever the hell you want, it's yours. I just gave my $24 opinion, the cost of the Felpro head bolts, which you are free to dismiss and you will be charged nothing.

Horse manure. A bolt only loses clamping force if it's stretched beyond its elastic limit, into the plastic range (which is another way of describing a torque-to-yield bolt). The 2.5L and 4.0L Jeep engines do not use TTY head bolts. Note that that comment was regarding Ubolts, I have both of these in my library and I pulled them out and posted here as "interesting read". I know you don't like me, but please read and comprehend before you jump my $#!&.