Jeep Driver

BTW, save yourself a ton of grief. Build the 3.4 thoughtfully, do all your homework and choose the best parts you can afford. Combine performance with reliability, keeping mileage in mind. Once the engine is built, you engine bay prepped, it's a one weekend swap. If you go headers, you may have to get to the exhaust shop on Monday....otherwise, you are back on the road. Then if you want to go injected.....do your homework....gather parts....prep.........then that's another one weekend swap. Be methodical.

Hopefully 10 years is enough! I have the ax-5 will that be a future problem for me? I don't drive wrecklessly or go hard on my transmission! So everyone says........ But I have yet to read anywhere whereas anyone has grenaded an AX5. My AX5 now shifts flawlessly with the new Core/Hurst shifter......flawless.

Body shop would not cut and weld anyway. As you say, it's hammer time.

Good used fender is about $25 at the PnP.

I have no idea what you did wrong. :P Mine will not lock the rears but it will plant your face in the windshield.

You go discs and you'll need neither, want neither. I don't know what the above statement means, but if you are stating that rear disk brakes do not need a some type of biasing valve ( either load sensing or a proportioning valve) that's not correct. I have no valve, notta. Brakes are perfect.

You go discs and you'll need neither, want neither.

Nice job. I sold my mini console the other day, now I'm truly obligated to working this out. I need to get some Naugahyde.

Scored a 2.5 inch Superlift on ebay. Good or bad? Welcome to Jeep, the game has begun. It's never ending, one thing leads to another, which leads to the next.....and so forth. I would never buy a "kit", but that's just me. Next you'll find that the bushing in the leaf springs are worn.....Ubolts.......bushing in UCAs.......you'll want an adjustable track bar........ Body work........interior.........electrical......headlight upgrade.......brakes....wheels and tires.........and on and on. You'll have $12K invested before you know it.

Header or exhaust manifold? If a manifold....EGR or no EGR? Wrangler headers run under the pan, XJ or MJ run behind the pan. If you want a manifold with no EGR........$15 plus $15 shipping. Bolts will need to be drilled out and replaced. I intended to blast it and remove bolt heads (downpipe) and offer on ebay for $50 plus shipping if you don't take it as is.

Thank you for the perspective.

The guy's thread is now 7 years old and I seriously doubt he's around.

You'll have to compare the two. Two styles of compressors, different mounts, AC mount is also 1/2 of the Alt mount. Mount and compressor reflects belt alignment, just because a '97+ mount and compressor will bolt up does not mean you can use it with '88 accessories.....besides, hoses are different IIRC. You can swap the backs of the compressors to get the hoses to match...but again......the belt alignment may be off......you'll have to compare.

I'll take a chance and read sarcasm into the "thanks for the help" since you dismissed my comment. I did not piss $3000 down the drain on my own 2.5 before gathering as much information as I can about the 2.5 over the last couple of years. Very few of us put any time, effort, money, into the 2.5, as a result, there is scarce information and performance parts. Most guys will tell you that the 2.5 is a 4.0 with the middle two cylinders removed, not true, the 2.5 came first and the 4.0 was designed after and out of the 2.5, look it up. Besides the obvious differences, the 2.5 and 4.0 share many of the same parts- water pump, oil pump, water necks, timing cover, timing set, head bolts, push rods, valves, lifters, springs, pistons, rods............etc........ On the later MPI 2.5s, it shared much of the same....injectors, throttle body, sensors such as CPS and TPS........etc...... If raising the compression to 10:1 were the answer to the 4.0 performance, then every MJ and XJ owner here would be off to the races. There are several Stroker guys here and many more elsewhere, balancing performance and reliability seems to the common issue among them. I have yet to see anyone successfully supercharge or turbo charge a 2.5 and brag about their success. Apparently a few 4.0 guys have but I have yet to read anything about reliability as a daily driver....bear in mind that you will be in the $6000 neighborhood going supercharged. The most common failure of the 4.0 is head gasket failure, just based on what I have read over over the last 3 years, ads for XJs and MJs for sale....common thread........head gasket, maybe 80% or more. The biggest hurdle you will experience is electrical, getting a Renix 2.5 or 4.0 to run well...electrical, and you need to go through every bit of it. Money and TIME, hope you got both. The greatest hurdle you will have to 2.5 performance.....air flow.........>NOT compression. You have entered the world of Jeep, and you've got a lot to learn yet. Actually, the 4.0 DID come first in development but not in production. I know this for a fact as I was told how it was done by a friend at JeepTech who was involved in the development of both engines. I read an article over a year ago regarding the 2.5 and 4.0 engines, Hemmings or Allpar, can't remember but it was a legitimate source. I cannot find the article now.........2.5 ran 3 years in production before the 4.0 came out, the claims made perfect sense to me. So, explain, why did AMC wait so long to release the 4.0?

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Did I read somewhere that GS offers a club discount? Was there a name of someone to contact? Thanks

The '01 intake will not allow him to use any of the '88 accessories. He'll need one off a '92 with a matching PS pump bracket.

The 2.5 block and head from '84 to '02 are all the same with 2 exceptions- The older blocks have a mechanical fuel pump mount while the later blocks have it blocked off, the mount is still in the casting but solid, the later's coil is mounted there rather than just a block-off plate. This is a bigger issue- The front stub of the crank shaft is longer on the pre-'97 engines. You can use the older dampener and accessories with a '97+ shaft but you CANNOT use a '96- shaft with '97+ accessories.

Image Not Found My truck sits exactly the way I want it. I work off my tailgate a lot, load and unload tools daily. My rear axle is still shifted to the driver's side by about 3/4" and I just cannot stand it anymore. I had it jacked up from the rear bumper last week and the axle, wheels to body, hang centered. When there is weight on springs the axle shifts to the driver's side. The only thing I can figure is there is some sort of fatigue causing the springs to curve sideways under load. That's the only reason I want to get new springs.

Thanks for the pics. This is exactly what I don't want. Then I'll end up with $500 in the front end too getting it to level out.

Thanks, getting the bolts it not a problem, I'm just considering the whole cost.

Yeah, I've been casually looking at gauges, they are expensive. At some point, if you would, give us a round number break down of what you spent on this build? I'd like to know what you spent at Novak for example, what do you have in your engine..etc.... where the trans came from and cost. You said you've driven it, and.......?

Stroker got a pair of 2.5 engine brackets from his JY and sent them to me. I just wanted to publicly thank him. Not everyday someone goes out of his way for you. THANK YOU!!!!!

Excellent. Can you give us a total cost for your gauges? And will the gas gauge be compatible with the sender?

I have chosen General Spring. As you know I have two choices, standard or MT. If I order the MT I will need new bolts, another $40 plus 2 hours round trip to get them. I did not do the 2nd torque and I have no problem reusing the ones that I have, they are only a couple months old but will be too short with the MT pack as I have trimmed them to the nuts. MT will cost me $565 with new bolts. The standard will cost me $355 shipped and I have enough PP money to order tonight. I have yet to need any additional payload capacity. I'm concerned about the additional lift of the MTs, I read anywhere from 1-1.5" lift. I'm also concerned about a rough ride when empty. Is the MT really worth the additional $210? For those of you who have gone from standard to MT.....what's your experience? Thanks