Jeep Driver

My statement would not apply to you anyway- ignore me. And maybe I was confused, are you using Renix or Chrysler? Use the one for whatever system you are going to use.

If it were me- Pull all the plugs out. Remove valve cover. Turn crank by hand to TDC. Remove distributor cap. Confirm TDC on compression stroke by position of rotor. If on #1, you're good, if 180 degrees off, turn crank one more revolution to TDC. Confirm #1 position with rotor. Confirm that both valves on #1 are CLOSED. You are now #1 TDC on compression. Remove distributor. Cut window of distributor you are going to use at #1. Install distributor. Confirm index by installing dist cap. Rotate crank 2 revolutions, confirm that rotor is just leaving #1 on cap at window at TDC. You are now indexed and ready to run. Yeah, I know, you can do the old finger over the plug hole trick....but I want to see with my own eyes, also, I want to see the valve train and condition before I install the engine.

I want meat and lots of it.......no skinnies for me. But then, my truck does not see mud.

Sorry, I'm not thinking in terms of MPFI.

My Chrysler distributor is in my Renix engine.......she's gonna run! There is no reason for it not to work. Cut the senor wire off and run it.

We've got ice, going nowhere today.

The AX5 came with 4.10/4.11 gears and the AX4 with 3.55s, apparently. Based on where you live, I doubt you'll know the difference.

What lights are these?

You're a flat-lander, you'll be fine, swap it.

I live in the mountains. If I have 1/4 tank and I'm going down the mountain it reads closer to 1/2 tank, if I'm going up the mountain it reads closer to empty. Been doing the same thing for three years now, predictable.

As does mine.

New Ujoints will cost you about $25-30 and will not harm you to replace them anyway. It will take you about two hours to replace. I'd start there. If the problem persists, then off to the unit bearing which will cost you about $200. I start cheapest first and then move on, when unsure.

edit I'll take a guess at the fuel pump relay.

They are not getting any cheaper, better grab it.

Ongoing list of parts replaced and approx costs- Original purchase- $2500 Purchase of donor, '94 XJ, $500 Initial front end parts purchase from Rockauto, included KYB shocks, Moog steering parts and track bar and UCAs and LCAs, $430 Replaced LCAs with NAPA Chassis, WJ, $130 OME front coils, $200 Isolator pads, 3/4 lift, $30 JKS rear shackles, $100 JKS adjustable tracbar, $206 Bilstein 4600 shocks, 4, $300 Replaced bushings in rear springs, NAPA Chassis, $100 Replaced rear leaf springs, General Spring, $350 Replaced original donor 4x4 trans with Wrangler AX5, reclocked, $200 plus travel. Replaced bench seat with bench seat, $60 plus travel. Purchase of XJ front buckets yet to be installed, $150 One front and two trans mounts, $35 Purchase of Brown Dog engine mounts, yet to be installed, $90 Federal axle ujoints $25 Front brakes, included calipers, hoses, rotors, pads, $120 Replaced D35 with C8.25, to included KJ discs, total to included related parts, $500 Replaced rear Bilsteins with Gabriels after 3" lift, $75 New drive shaft, $225 Hurst short-throw and TC stick, $300 ACC carpet, first $200 and just ordered replacement, $116, total to include learning curve, $300 New exhaust, $180 WJ power steering pump, with hose, $40 WJ power brake booster and master, to include related, $50 Upgrade to 105 Amp Alt, $90 Upgrade headlight and harness, $50 Ravines, no cost. Cooper tires, 31s, $700 Rear bumper, homemade, value to include labor and parts, $350+ Tool box, free, $100 value. Replaced front grille and bezels with chrome, modified to fit from '92 XJ, $70 Replaced clutch, LUK, $100 Replaced clutch master, twice, $80 Battery, $65 Replaced all sensors and upgrade wiring to include cables and all related, $350 New engine, yet to be installed, $3000 New steering wheel, to be replaced again, $130 Brake cables, replaced twice, $60 Changing total- $12,341 Rugged Ridge floor mats, $75 Front 28mm sway bar from XJ, $30 Rear sway bar from Blazer, $50 Octagon aluminum radiator overflow, Jegs, $50 Bilstein 5125 at the rear, $156 Sony head unit, $120 Spicer ball joints $103 Bilstein 5100 front shocks, 145 New total- $13,070

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/4840775996.html

JKS adjustable track bar. Image Not Found Image Not Found

O2 sensor.

You can find one for $1400, here is an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactured-4-0-242-Jeep-Engine-1991-1995-Cherokee-/300765487565?fits=Make%3AJeep

Looks just like the one I made for my 2.5. Who knows? I'm sure of nothing. Image Not Found

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-AMC-EGR-Block-Off-Plate-blockoff-/321663765969?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae4a78dd1&vxp=mtr

There is a thread here regarding the Renix system (which does not apply to you) and the volt meter showing a load when the blower motor is on. What no one is paying attention to is the load the blower motor is drawing. The way the Renix meter is wired it's reading the load at the fuse block and not the output at the alt/battery as it should be. The point is- from a practical matter and not a scientific one- The 90 amp link you are referring to, the load is not near 90 amps, otherwise you'd burn the link every time you applied a full load, ran all acc at once, a full load may be closer to 50 amps. No, I doubt the switch is designed to carry a different load in separate parts of the switch, the different links apply to two different circuit requirements. If it were me and I was to design a new harness, or modify the existing one- I'd find a relay bank from another vehicle or an aftermarket one, I'd run all high load appliances through the relay bank- Head lights Aux lights AC Efan Head unit with AMP Blower motor Etc.... Before the relay bank I'd install two BREAKERS, one for ignition and one for acc or non essentials. 100amp and maybe a 40 amp......that you'd have to work out but I'd definitely get rid of the links. I'd pay no attention to the ignition switch itself other than maybe replacing it.

All you have to do is tap the holes on the PS pump to 3/8 and bolt it to the existing 88 brackets. Swap and retain your 88 pulley. The WPs are all the same, 4.0 or 2.5, you just have to have the correct rotation, V belt or serpentine.

And my ACC carpet wows. I filed a complaint and we'll see what they do about it. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

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