Jeep Driver

Stiff. The bar is out of a Blazer. Brackets are XJ.

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By the time you buy the bushings and replace them (time and effort) you'd be much better off replacing them altogether. NAPA Chassis are good ones.

Estimated around $60 each more like $400 ish. If I replaced all of them I took a mental note....including tach and speedo.......also there are several to choose from.....I like the Tow-x, whatever the name is.....

I have Gabriels ordered right now, went to pick them up but they are not there yet. I'm sitting at 19" pin to pin. I have spent 6-7 hours combing through all the available shocks at Hornbrods numbers. There is one- G63443 and it crosses to no other shock. Yes you will find acceptable numbers but the mounts will need to be modified or the mounts are wrong. GAG63443 Specifications Collapsed Length (IN):13.95 Extended Length (IN):23.33 Lower Mount Type:EB1 Upper Mount Type:EB1 Availability:Ships in 3 to 4 days Performance:Best Manufacturers Part Number:G63443 This shock has the greatest stroke of any that I can find in off the shelf, like kind, shock.

Yeah, the Glowshift gauges are real nice. About $5-600 worth of real nice.

Impossible anyway. Without TPS feedback your ignition timing is dead. http://comancheclub.com/topic/45169-just-us-25-boysshameless-plug/?hl=jeep+driver&do=findComment&comment=459732

http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/Driveshaft_Bible/index.html This is not the place to go cheap or cobble up $#!&.....that was the point.

I took the wife and boy with me to do a job in SC, 150 miles south. Worked around the clock for three days and came home late Tues night. I can not afford to lose a DS tooling down the interstate at 70mph with my family. I don't hack and tap jack-$#!&. Cheap gets expensive.

Joe, As I told you yesterday, I'm not necessarily complaining, not happy nor unhappy. It's just that I'm going down a path now that I did not expect. I'm at the top of my rear shocks and I'll need to do something about that this weekend. I cannot afford the OMEs right away so I'll have to get a set of Gabriels in the meantime. My coils came today, I'll likely need new shocks in the front. So, I'll spend $150 this weekend only to spend $450 in a couple of months for other shocks, likely the OMEs. I just spent $300 on Bilsteins. I'll even need to get a 5" drop bar for the hitch so I can pull my trailer. One thing I will say...well....two things..... I found a perfectly flat driveway and measured all four flares, from the ground to the bottom of the flare, both of the rears are right at 35", not even a 1/16th of difference, I'm very happy about that. The other thing- it is not uncommon for me to load up on concrete or other heavy material and I have no doubt that your springs can handle the weight. I do like the idea of not riding the bottom with 1000lbs in the back. I'll post pics here after I install the front springs. I may like the new height after all.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/45169-just-us-25-boysshameless-plug/?hl=jeep+driver&do=findComment&comment=459732 See above. I have no idea what a kit will cost you or if you can find one there but you can get a new one for a reasonable price.

kansashogan's dash.

Where did you get the radiator at and how much did it cost?

Florida: • Charges were brought against William Bennett for allegedly defrauding a financing company out of more than $341,000. William Bennett, owner of several now-defunct Bennett used cardealerships in Pinellas County, Florida, pled guilty to conspiracy and was sentenced to 40months in prison and three years of supervised release in May 2001. Investigators determined that Bennett altered paperwork to fabricate car deals which never occurred. His former chief financial officer, Donald Bender, was charged in July 2002 with grand theft in connection with the case. Federa l authorities prosecuted both men. 9 http://www.citizen.org/documents/appendixa-b.pdf

I bought a '97 Ford Ranger in '98 from a dealer that specialized in nearly new vehicles. I did not have the truck 2 hours, drove it straight to work. While at work I always leave the doors open and radio on. First thing I did was look under the dash to pull the damn buzzer. There was a line of sediment and rust about 6" up from the bottom of the dash. The truck was a flood truck. I threaten to sue the bank. Bank sent me the title free and clear. True story.

That's the first I've seen of a '86 close up.....looks like a cluster-F. I use a Torx screw driver....may be easier than a socket and ratchet. Once removed you could replace the bolts with socket head bolts and use an allen wrench. You can make up a couple of probe pins, stick those into the plug and then touch the meter probes to the pins rather than probing directly. The Fuel lines should flex enough that you could lift the TBI up enough to probe and adjust but you'll likely lose your gasket. I would do whatever I could to not remove the TBI.

Something's wrong here, because gauges (but not the tachometer) were standard equipment on the Pioneer trim level. My Pioneer also cam with lights, not gauges.

BTW, ARB tells me that the OMEs will only net me 1.75 over stock.....whatever stock height is.......

Ok, I'm at 32.25. So, you are using the OMEs? If so, that will only net me 1".

OME 2930 front coils. I ordered those and 3/4 isolator pads from Morris 4x4. Your guy was out on the road and could not be reached.

Yeah, that's what I did. Share link.........img........copy......come here......Control V Image Not Found Works for me

Do not use "paste".....use....Control V And your pic will show up.

UCAs for WJs are configured differently than the standard straight arms you have now, you may want to look at them. I have no idea if they will offer you any more clearance......just at a thought.

I've never encountered this problem but it I did- Mandrel bent tube and two silicone connectors and forever solve the problem......or.........silicone L shaped hose and cut to fit.