Jeep Driver

1700lbs does not a metric tonne make.

We were at the Nissan dealer yesterday, wife's first service. Titan on showroom floor- Base price, $50K. Dealer installed off road package, final price $71K. People believe that -dealer installed- or -factory authorized aftermarket- is similar to, or equal to, or retains value as, Factory. Two things to consider- Three types of people- Capable and knowledgeable and talented. Incapable, ignorant, should never touch a wrench. Hacks. Unfortunately too many Jeep owners are Hacks. Also, the lazy with money............they will pay for the bolt-on BS...................Wrangler owners from dealers you see so much of.

Yeah, sounds like a bad flex plate or gear ring.

Opinion, everyone has one, don't they? If ever there were a Rule- It's your truck, do as you please. I'll do as I please with mine, I'm not asking you to like it, I'm also not asking you to buy it. I'm opinionated, no doubt about that, however- From from my POV, there aren't too many here who should be judging the work of others. And I mean that, sincerely. Whatever you do, don't expect your money back out of it. I'll nit pick, I loathe words like 'mods', it's what kids do to bicycles.

Do you have 12v at the red wire at the ign switch? If not, you need to trace that wire back to the fused link, find the break, fix it. And I'm not convinced your fused links are good. This will require you to literally, physically, trace that wire. Not picking and probing and testing here and there.

14 years ago, when I was building rifles, we could build an AK47/74 for sub $200, those days are forever gone. Same applies here, the days of $400 MJs and donors and cheap Trail Trash are about to, if not already, end, forever. What's my point? Jeep Culture. There are few, very few, MJ owners who have taken their trucks to the next level. When they come here, virtually any Jeep site, and state that I've done X, and the responses are- "I'd never pay for that!" or "I didn't pay that much for my entire truck", well, when you do that to guys.......you clam them up, they stay quiet. The XJ/MJ culture will change over time. The MJ you could buy for $2K ten years ago will now cost you $6K. Guys with the wherewithal to build expensive trucks will. One of my favorite phrases- Never ask a question you don't already know the answer to. Let's pretend for a moment, Muscle Car group/site, 69 Camaro, full Brembo brakes, custom wheels and tires to accommodate Brembos, upwards of $10K. No one is going to ask how much because everyone already knows how much, these are cars upwards and beyond $100K. I may spring for a Wilwood master, if so I'll have about $2500 in my brakes. I really want the 15" rotors with six-pots in the front and to move the fronts to the rear......add another $2K. And $2500 for 18" wheels/tires to accommodate, which I already have. None of this S--- it cheap, none of it. And if you want guys to be more informative about costs, efforts, ideas, desires......etc..........you guys need to be more accepting and less critical. I'm looking at a couple of blocks next week, Vortec, old-skool, I know what I want and I'm not going the LS route. That said, I'll likely, well, I will, have more invested than $8K. The transmission I want behind it is $6K. No crate engines, I want to build my own, good blocks are getting harder to find now, been looking. I may be poor but I'm determined.

First two things which came to mind are- Drive shafts, front and rear, depending on quality and from whom- figure around $700. Exhaust, mandrel bent, custom shop, you can figure around $1200 and beyond. You can figure another $2K worth of nickles and dimes......universal. Starter, cables, battery, hoses and clamps, wiring, loom, solder, connectors, master and slave, clutch, fluids, and on and on........... And if you are going to put 400hp/tq and beyond to the wheels.........brakes. Etc, etc, etc.............

The 4.0 and 2.5 alt cases are not remotely the same. No, a 4.0 will not fit a 2.5. As for the pulley, bust the nut with an impact, swap pulleys, it's that easy.

If you are going to make that kind of mistake, at least use Raptor.

If the hole is wallowed out, yes, of course.

Anytime a drive shaft is forced into a trans or TC..........damage can occur. And in your case, very possible.

Sub-frame, oil pan, steering sector, front axle, control arms and mounts at frame............lot of damage there. Front clip ain't gonna fix that one. Lots of time on the frame rack for that one. Sorry.

And your rear axle will be 1.25" out of center to the fore. Look around........universal problem.

They need to be clean.........clean clean clean. Grease and wax remover will damage the light. Use foaming window cleaner for a final wash. Do not touch without gloves. Do not heat. For reference to 'foaming window cleaner'- Skip to 6:20 or watch all of it.......it's good.

If you trusted them with your truck........you can trust them with a pair of lights. Do that.

Do you want quality and value? Get the GS MW springs. I have no complaints, I've not read one complaint. Man here just installed a pair and he seems happy happy. Be happy. Edit: and no, I don't care what anyone tries to peddle you, you'll not see any practical payload advantage to 'MT' springs over the MW springs.

Leave them alone. I'll answer your question this way- I used to watch every episode of Nick's Garage.........until......... A man pays $10-12K for a custom built engine, dyno tested. Nick pisses on it with a $8 rattle can. I've nearly lost all interest and respect. Rattle can clear will yellow inside of a year. Don't ruin a $500 pair of tail lights. You already know the answer to your question.

No, do not buy a kit.

The air temp and coolant temp sensors are just as critical as the O2 and the MAP. Replace your line to MAP and clean your TBI ports. The stepper motor is.....well........ You can unplug it and adjust the plunger to manually set the idle. You will find it listed for Cadillac, BWD...........and a POS and rather meaningless anyway. There are actually two gauge port plugs, careful, plugs are brass or some kind of pot metal and will strip very easily. Threads are 1/4 NPT. Also, if all else fails.....may be a bad injector also.......see https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/New-Fuel-Injectors.html you may have to call. Pressure should be 15-17lbs.