jrl3

Good to know, thank you.

one of many yes. It barely stops, like full force pedal to come to a complete stop from a neighborhood casual speed. I'm going to pull the calipers and all that tomorrow to see if I see anything obvious. I'm pretty sure booster is shot as I hear a hissing sound when I hold in brake pedal. Probably needs to be bled too.

not really shaking, more like a looseness and grinding almost. I drove it to my brothers place today and parked it as I have most of my tools over there, I'm going to jack it up and start inspecting it closer tomorrow. Maybe it's normal, but the toothed ring on passenger side sticks much further out than the driver side. I don't even know what that's called lol. Going to be a steep learning curve here. Suspension/driveline stuff is my least knowledgeable area. It also started ok the first few times I tried but after it warmed up a bit and I turned it off, I tried to start it again and it would barely run for a few seconds and die again. After I let it sit just a few minutes is started up again ok. There's lots of seepage around valve cover, I'm wondering if the plugs are fouling or something? Maybe cracked head, but oil looks ok I think. It also seems to run ok for a while and then it will start missing pretty bad when warm. Basically there's more stuff wrong than right on this truck the seller claimed was good to go. Sucks you can't trust people anymore.

So I bought a MJ online, one that had had a build thread going on here actually. Well, the last few owners weren't quite as caring apparently. I bought it sight-unseen. I took sellers word for most of the info. That wasn't the best idea in hind-sight unfortunately... I'm too trusting I guess. He said he'd drive it cross country tomorrow, well I'm scared to drive it around the corner. There's a serious issues on passenger front going on I'm fairly certain, but I don't know what I'm looking at unfortunately. This was going to be my learn as you go Jeep, but it feels a bit overwhelming already. What in the world is going on here? Driver side seems ok, I guess. Passenger doesn't look right. It barelllyyy stops. And feels/sounds like its going to fall apart driving down tbe road. Pic attached of driver and pass side of axles.

Right now the booster is shot, so I can hardly stop at all... It has 35's on it now, I might move down to 34-33 tho

The way I read things, the MJ distro/prop valve is significant bottle-neck in front braking system due to its smaller orifice size than the actual lines. Plus is doesn't actually proportion rear brakes (to my understanding), the LSV does that. I don't tow/haul anything of signifigance to utilize the LSV anyways, just another thing to break really. I can always turn up the pressure in rear if I am hauling something via the wilwood valve. So basically, I get better braking in the front and the ability to adjust the rears manually. It's not all that complicated to dial in the rear brakes via the valve, just to the point where fronts lock up just before rears and you're good. Of course dialing it in perfectly for different loads is not feasible but I doubt I would ever haul anything big enough to even worry about adjusting the valve once I set it right for no load honestly.

So after reading through quite a few posts, I decided I want to Upgrade my MJ with the WJ Booster/MC and delete the distribution block and Prop. Valve/LSV, and Tee the front lines. I bought new parts off ebay for the WJ Booster and MC, not OEM. I assume this will work fine? I also got the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve p/n 260-8419. The Wilwood valve says "disc brakes" across the top, I assume it's still work fine for rear drums? My main question, I'm a novice mechanic and changing pads/rotors/bleeding is about the extent of my brake work. Should I leave this to a professional or can someone spoon feed me the parts/tools I would need to complete this job lol? I don't mind spending a couple bucks on flexible lines and stuff of that nature if it will make the job easier for me.

thanks guys, gonna try my luck with lock pick, and if I can't get the hang of it I'll go see a locksmith. Was hoping I could just remove the glove box or something easily, guess that's not really an option.

I'm afraid I might get in trouble if I learn that skill LOL, but honestly, I might try that. If I get impatient though, can I just squeeze the crap outta the handle deal and break it and buy a new one for cheap?

yes, previous owner did it. I actually had truck shipped to me and title is in there and driver forgot to give me that key... so it's kind important lol

Key is gone, and it's locked... What options do I have to get it opened?

Gotcha, thanks! Anyone have experience with fox 2.0. I saw some for 2-3" lifts that might be a good choice for me. Fox Shocks 985-24-131 Fox 2.0 Performance Series Smooth Body IFP Shock; Extended 26.350 in.; Collapsed 16.750 in.; Stroke 9.600 in.;