Jeep Driver

Only if you are serious. https://creativeaudio.net/acp108lg-w3v3/?sku=ACP108LG-W3v3&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5auGBhDEARIsAFyNm9Fd3OLoDM8AZ-QnZ15X2C76WxKmOrZfatsX78357a8kVJvfn8uUJIkaAsi0EALw_wcB

I will tell you though that you will have a ball joint issue, I do as well as many others. I just ordered new ball joints https://www.quadratec.com/products/56100_0010.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjw2ZaGBhBoEiwA8pfP_gd025Obi93a0ENP6P29W3onZf1qopAB29vEuqCmycnMNNhZRfunRhoCQNgQAvD_BwE If that does not resolve my problem I will order a reamer.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wbi-513084/make/jeep/model/cherokee/year/1989 It's unfortunate that there is only one left, these are US made with Jap bearings and very high quality. Use that part# to cross. Knuckle and unit bearing for 1989........there you cannot go wrong.

You've got the 2.5. You've added a fuel pressure gauge. Watch your gauge when turning the key to run. If you cannot see the gauge have a helper turn the key. Pump will run for 2-3 seconds then shut off if starter is not engaged. You should see pressure build then reduce to 0 again. Cycle a couple to times to insure that pump will prime in the run position. When the starter is engaged- If ECU does not see signal from CPS you will get no fuel pressure....pump will remain off. This will tell you one of three things are happening- Pump failure. CPS failure. Coil failure or I suppose could be ignition module failure. IOWs, it's my experience that any ignition failure will result in ECU keeping pump in the off no-run condition. Unfortunately most aftermarket products are junk out of the box. OEM only if you can find it.

I just got off the phone with Quickdraw......... The question is- will this bell fit other Tremic transmissions? The question is unanswered but they will look into it. I believe the Tremic in question here will also fit the bell. Internals suck, yours will fail at some point, they all do. To answer the question, the Mopar master will work with the aftermarket internal slaves, Silver Sport uses Mopar masters and sells with their kit the hose and adapter to retain the Mopar master. Quickdraw maintains the Mopar master and external slave.......not necessarily the sole reason I'm going with Quickdraw but the primary one. The secondary reason is that I'm doing everything to avoid Novak and Advance Adapters......may even make my own engine mounts. If you want to maintain your existing Mopar unit......see here- https://quickdrawbrand.com/product/bell-housing-adapter-kit-for-the-chevy-ls-bbc-sbc-to-tremec-tr-4050/ Side note: I'm a fan of Wilwood and I'm not in anyway suggesting that you should not use Wilwood. What I am suggesting is that the Mopar external system is far superior to any aftermarket internal system.

https://core-shifters.com/collections/shifters-for-cherokee/products/core-hurst-shifter-1989-1999-jeep-cherokee-comanche-6-cyl-w-ax15-5-speed

There is a core plug at the back of the head. Also, your intake manifold is heated. There is a hose at the back of the intake which runs to the heater core. One of the two let go.

If you notice anything you'll likely have a little more pep and better mileage around town. If you are patient and wise- Find a pair of axles out of a late model XJ 2.5, will have 4.10s Or at the least a 4.10 D30 and then regear the rear if you want to keep it. A pair of axles will cost you about $300, that's less than half the cost of regearing a single axle. To make my point, an example- https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/289577182886008/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A1051d5ca-03f2-45fc-be31-5f1534cb4090 Then spend your other $300 for a shop to help you set up your new rear.....if you cannot do it yourself.

Picked up my block today and dropped off rotating assembly with flywheel and dampener to be balanced. Searching for ARP main cap bolts and other unobtainable parts.

I'll be keeping track of costs here and updating as I go. Picked up my flywheel and clutch today. Used long block core. $250.00 Rotating assembly, ARP balancer bolt, brass plugs, balancer. Jegs $895.96 Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bolts. Silver Sport Transmissions $640.72 Machine work, clean, bore, deck, cam bearings. Myers Machine $630.00 To date: $2,416.68 Note: I'm buying as much as I can that is made in USA, regardless of cost.

The tail lights have a compound radius to them. The upper being larger than the lower and then the radius of the side of the bed from the top to the bottom. There really isn't anything else similar enough to graft in properly, thus why I went an entirely different route. Even making the patch panel was difficult. https://comancheclub.com/topic/53244-evolution-88/?do=findComment&comment=591968

Nostalgia. There are plenty of old school SBCs and others still being built today. And, I'm not interested in following current norms just because everyone else is.

Yes, that's the plan.

Guess you can see where this is going. Block is at the machine shop. Took me two years to find the block I wanted. This is supposedly a balanced assembly but it's going to the machine shop to be balanced and gone over. Its not the assembly I wanted but it's what's available, there are a lot of parts out of stock right now with no promise of delivery for months. I've got to pick up my flywheel and clutch next week...I got other goodies too including the balancer which will all go to the machinist. Trans will be TR4050.

Fronts are Ford of the same era. I suspect the rears are too but I no longer have the stock rear lights.

Actually I said much more than that. What I said has all come to pass and then some. But, my comments were cancelled here........and so goes cancel-culture. Culture, govt, cults, religion.....etc...my hobbies, it's what I study. It's a shame that people have to be kept in the dark.

Quality, stainless, ends have rubber O-ring seals. Nothing like the store boughts.

Aftermarket junk. Mopar this time, right side came all the way from Lithuania.

Here's what I actually suggested- If you are eliminating the stock prop valve you are already going to replace the soft line there. The only other thing to do is to plug the distribution block. What I suggest is spending $1.99 for a plug, then see what you have. Every time this subject comes up, here or elsewhere, the immediate question is what adjustable valve do I buy? There is an assumption that the stock valve actually worked, once worked, ever worked, or was needed in the first place or was even necessary. Guys are making new linkages, adjusting, readjusting the stock valve under the assumption that it is working or that it is necessary and needed. What I will now further suggest is that the stock valve is and was, from the beginning, a gimmick. Maybe it worked 30 years ago, for a while, who knows? but after being articulated for 200K+ miles......eh...... For those with drum brakes, I guarantee you, 99 of 100 reading this have not, unless incredibly anal, cleaned and adjusted their rear brakes. The only time rear drums get any attention is when the wheel cylinder leaks. I'll bet you most are operating at 20% if at all. Dirty, rusty, glazed, worn, out of adjustment, leaking. KJ or ZJ or other, they are the same, compare, no different. Also, compare front to rear, rears are about 40% smaller, rotor size, pad size, caliper piston size, front to rear- you are already about 40% under-braking at the rear. Another misconception, bore size- First thing I read when doing my research several years ago is big brakes must have a big-bore master. For those who spend the big bucks, one could end up feeding 24 pistons. Larger rotors, rotors are nothing more than levers, larger levers require less work. Larger pads, more surface area, more surface area requires less work. If more work is being done with less effort, less heat is generated, less heat equates more efficient braking, again requiring less effort. More pistons applying pressure over a larger surface requires less energy/effort/work/heat/demand/pressure over a single piston for the same work requirement. A 7/8 bore will produce more pressure than a 1 1/8 bore. I'm suggesting that the most immediate benefit one could gain will be braided SS lines. Pressure and volume loss is taking place at the rubber soft lines. I turned my truck around last night to get ready to do the fronts, immediate lock up of the rears.....they are not scrubbed in yet, obviously. I'm now anxious to see how they feel with the fronts done. I may have to add a valve, if so I may just go with the Wilwood master with valve.....I'll have to see. But, apple to oranges thus far......one thing is for certain though, stock to Wilwood is no comparison.

Pressure, not volume. and.......hang a 200lbs bumper on the back, better ride, better brakes.

Ospho This is my frame after being treated with Ospho. Gray area is bare metal, the white residue gets washed off before primer, us soap and a scotchbrite pad.

If listed as NPT, NPT will allow for adaptors for multiple applications. If you are running large tires with a KJ or other conversion, you do not need an adjustable prop valve, regardless of what anyone has posted about it. KJ/other discs will not over-brake a large size tire. Do not discard the distribution block, plug the discarded line and retain the block. I'm installing Wilwood front and rear. Bled my rears last night and I have good pedal. I'll be installing the fronts in a week or so. I do not expect to use a prop valve even with 4-pot rears. I'll post the results in my thread. If you want to do something which will give you an immediate benefit- new hard lines and braided SS soft lines...along with the later model master/booster.

Brake cables came today, installed. If you are looking for high quality cables at a reasonable price, see below. These are good for any type of disc conversion, however the Wilwood does not need the return spring. The core is about 1.5 inches too long but that was my fault, I measured off the previous cables not taking into account that the Wilwood does not need as much reach between the mount and lever.

No, LOL. I posted this pic in the Tech section also, in a thread about 'Woodward' brakes....er....Wilwood. You may find conversion kits for the 8.25 but you will not find any 'performance' brake kits. Even Wilwood does not have the 8.25 listed as an axle for which they have a kit for. I called Wilwood last week to inform them, I also emailed them but have not heard back via email, I sent them a pic as verification. They are missing out on a wide variety of Chrysler/Jeep vehicles. I was wondering if anyone would even ask, but I suppose they don't know what they are looking at. This may be the only 8.25 fitted with -performance- brakes. Wilwood 140-10767 fits Chrysler 8.75 and 9.75 and Dana 60, those axles share the same mounting flange and offset as the 8.25. So, now you know. And of course in that thread you will find the obligatory -Wilwoods have no added value- statement, ignorance is tiresome. I'll stick to pics. Fronts up next.