Jeep Driver

That S wouldn't fly here...........not at all.

Thanks for letting me know. Should show now.

Oh, it's so good to be a southern man.

Paraffin wax makes it silky smooth, melted in on both male and female hinges.

I want to see a couple of success stories. Daily drivers, no tuning problems, no overheating, everything fits under hood. I've not seen a success story, not one.

If someone sent to your phone........... Download to phone. Upload file here. Or up load to youtube then post link.

BTW, if you are going to fix this yourself- I suspect, I know, you have frame damage, it's bent. If you bypass the frame machine, nothing in the front will bolt up correctly or align.

Their numbers will be unrealistic for three reasons.........I suspect- All they need to do is meet the threshold for Total Loss. Secondly, damage like that on a newer vehicle will be open ended, meaning once the body shop begins to take it apart and find hidden damage the estimate will be amended. Thirdly, and to the first reason, they will use standard costs which are not realistic. Example, they may list the front axle at $500 whereas any of us will find one for $150. You'll pick up a front fender for $50 and they will list an aftermarket for $250. End result is meeting the threshold quickly and declaring the loss and cutting you a check ASAP, IOWs get rid of you as quickly as possible. You have a lot of damage there.........even your exhaust, oil pan and possible internal damage, and surely transmission damage. And, you will need frame time, my guess is 6-7 hours of frame machine time.......$1200. Just a guess.

'88

5mm because I have plenty and a tap.

Bracket came from a '92 XJ ....IIRC. Screws right on.

I went through several OEM style switches, get it set to function then a month later it stopped working. Got tired of it and went to the standard and simple switch.

Good grief................ I'm on my way to the Save Nothing for cheese pizzas and turkey pepperoni. We don't eat pork so we make our own. And a goody for a movie night. Aint' skeerd of dying. Got plenty of coffee and TP and neck deep in ammo...........GTG.

That's not the problem. Problem is- That's about a $8000 repair and the truck is worth $4500 to $6000 on it's best day. OP, take the cash and don't worry about the salvage title, means little.

Use a piece of all-thread and three nuts. If you are worried about the shoulder? make a collar from a piece of tubing.

I assume you are referring to my post? For your entertainment. My post? For the thinking man. As for wheel adapters, vid............sourced D44 from Wagoneer, sourced D60 from ambulance..IIRC........same bolt pattern, apparently. Same width, apparently. And he drives the holy F out of it, no failures. You Canadians are a real PITA.

Yeah, that was funny. Sheeple, the world is full of them. The only thing in this world I worry about, are the idiots who surround me.

Jump to 7:20 He drives the S--t out of it.

Understatement.

NiCopp is a brand name. https://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Copper-Brake-Line-Tubing/dp/B00A02C9H0

The solution. As you depress the pedal the shaft does not go back and forth in the bore straight. Explained- With the pedal out, the shaft is in the 3oclock position, when you depress the pedal, the shaft is in the 2oclock position. On mine, I always got a clicking sound when depressed as the shaft bottomed out on the retainer at the end of the bore. Problem caused- With the shaft at an angle, the single plunger does not sit square in the bore, causing wear, causing an eventual leak, allowing air into the system. Mopar- OEM master, Mopar, has two plungers, not a single plunger, keeping the plunger square to the bore. All aftermarket masters are S--t!, junk. Solution- Bend the shaft, similar to shown below, this will keep the shaft more inline with the bore, eliminating the click, minimizing wear. Find a Mopar system, the complete system. Bend the shaft. In a vise, with the shaft in the 12oclock position, take a hammer and lightly tap the shaft to point in the 1oclock position. Bend closer to the end of the shaft. This is one I tested the bend on before I bent the new one- Bend on new one is closer to the end. OEM Mopar style plunger/wipe.

Safelite in my locale will not install MJ glass. No listing for the MJ. Also, they will not install '97 glass with rubber trim, XJ is not an MJ. I asked if I ordered for XJ will installer refuse to install, answer was yes. I went with independent and it was about $230.

Are you referring to Safelite Autoglass?